Winch help

[SemiTrkDrvr]

Winch

I just had this same problem on my WARN 9500HS. Pulled it apart, did all the standard tests and had the exact same problem as mentioned above. What it finally came down to was that the surface area between the motor housing and the part that holds the brushes did not make a ground when bolted together. I sanded the two surfaces so they made good contact between them and it started working.

Hope that helps.

 

[skrause]

What type of mounting system is the winch mounted to? Are mounting bolts installed from the bottom or through the front face of the mount plate/bumper?

:wtf: :eeek:

 

[TDW]

:wtf: :eeek:

Foot down or foot forward. It makes a difference.

 

[GRNTACO]

Foot down or foot forward. It makes a difference.

Forward. It's in an ARB bumper.

 

[skrause]

Foot down or foot forward. It makes a difference.

I fail to see how. :eeek:

 

[TreeClimber]

I ran the ground from my winch to the frame rail, and the power straight from the battery. Went "click" Called Warn, etc, and thought it was a bad solinoid. Since I had to go to Portland anyway, dropped by the factory customer service and had them swap out the solinoid. They hooked it up Battery to battery +, and ground to battery -, and sure enough, it worked fine. My problem was in a bad ground. I takes a lot of juice to run the motor, and that juice has to find it's way all the way back to the battery. I reinstalled it on the TJ, with a new battery ground from the winch motor to the battery and it works great. Lesson learned. That's why my earlier post.

There's been several good solutions here, I'm sure one will work for you.

 

[TDW]

If mounted foot forward in the ARB bumper it is very important on the 9.5XP (if it has not already been done) to pull the motor and clear the silicone from the drain channel in the drum support. When mounting it foot forward the blocked drain channel points down which means the motor would need to fill half way up with water before it will drain. Allowing water to sit in the motor will ruin it.

 

[skrause]

If mounted foot forward in the ARB bumper it is very important on the 9.5XP (if it has not already been done) to pull the motor and clear the silicone from the drain channel in the drum support. When mounting it foot forward the blocked drain channel points down which means the motor would need to fill half way up with water before it will drain. Allowing water to sit in the motor will ruin it.

Oh. :redneck: *prepares to be slapped silly and called Shirley*


I wasn't aware they had a drain opening at all. My XD9k is still working after 5+ or so years in the same situation and many dunkings.

 

[GRNTACO]

If mounted foot forward in the ARB bumper it is very important on the 9.5XP (if it has not already been done) to pull the motor and clear the silicone from the drain channel in the drum support. When mounting it foot forward the blocked drain channel points down which means the motor would need to fill half way up with water before it will drain. Allowing water to sit in the motor will ruin it.

That is interesting.

 

[Jeepasaurusrex]

I always run a ground from the winch to the battery. I don't even mess with the chassis ground crap. Two more connections to fail. :corn:

 

[2pwrlftrs4u]

ben you better get that **** fixed before the run that we dont speak of :flipoff:

 

[GRNTACO]

ben you better get that **** fixed before the run that we dont speak of :flipoff:

You'll bail.:looser:

 

[GRNTACO]

The motor works when jumped. I don't think I had a good enough jumper wire when I first tried it.

Solenoids click when power is applied to them. I get 4.0 - 4.1 ohms on the little solenoids and 9.5 on the larger ones. At this point I am not sure what they should be since I can't find any technical info on them

There is one thing that has me baffled............How are the solenoids ground?

 

[TreeClimber]

If you have the 5 plug controller, one wire is power, one is in, one is out and two are the solinoid grounds. Those two wires simply go from the solinoid pack thru the switch (which connects them when the switch is activated) back to the ground, typically at the back of the motor.

If you have the 3 plug controller, the solinoids are grounded to the base plate that the solinoids connect to, and are grounded thru the winch body.

That's of course, if I remembered correctly.

And if the solinoids click, then the ground works. With the cover off, and a finger touching each solinoid, you should be able to feel each one click as you activate the controller.

 

[GRNTACO]

Here is what the solenoid looks like.....

Is the ground the plate on the bottom? Because if it is then that means the solenoids are grounded through the bumper via the solenoid pack attaching there?

The motor works, solenoids work so that leaves me thinking that there is a problem with a ground.

There is a green, black, brown, white (power) and red (which goes back the motor ground) that comes from the switch and connects to the solenoid assembly.

 

[GRNTACO]

According this pic that plate on the bottom is the ground?

 

[TreeClimber]

Here is what the solenoid looks like.....

Is the ground the plate on the bottom? Because if it is then that means the solenoids are grounded through the bumper via the solenoid pack attaching there?

The motor works, solenoids work so that leaves me thinking that there is a problem with a ground.

There is a green, black, brown, white (power) and red (which goes back the motor ground) that comes from the switch and connects to the solenoid assembly.

I too, have the five wire winch. When you take the cover off, you'll see two groups of wires. The group with three wires is the power grouping, the group with two wires is the ground grouping. If you'll notice, you should have a tiny wire that loops under the motor body, and connects at the ground post of the motor. That's the ground wire. It flows back into the solinoid box, straight to the plug in for the controller. It then goes up to the switch, and, when the switch is activated, goes back to the solinoids, splitting, and connecting with each and every one of the solinoids by way of one of the two little studs on each.

The power circuit gets power from the battery lead into the solinoid pack, goes thru the switch, and returns as a power in lead connecting with two solinoids, or as a power out lead connecting with the remaining two solinoids.

If the solinoids click. They work. It's EXTREMELY rare, for the internal contacts to go bad on a winch as new as yours (early models only have 3 wires to the switch, and are more common for this) Normally, when a solinoid dies, they don't 'click' anymore.

 

[GRNTACO]

I see how the grounding works now.

Maybe I need to see if I can make the winch work by jumping the connectors on top of the solenoid pack, maybe the in/out controller is faulty.

 

[TreeClimber]

I see how the grounding works now.

Maybe I need to see if I can make the winch work by jumping the connectors on top of the solenoid pack, maybe the in/out controller is faulty.

The wires there are soooo damn close together, it's really difficult to jump them. However, you can bypass the two ground wires and hook them directly together. They're an additional safety feature to prevent a shorted out power wire from tearing the winch apart (or killing you, ripping your arm off, etc). Then you only have to deal with the power circuit.

But if they are clicking, they SHOULD be working. And you don't need to jump anything.

I'd double and tripple check the MOTOR ground circuit. That's the big cable at the bottom of the motor. And make sure the stud is tight in the motor, and the cable is tight on the stud, and the cable connects tightly on the battery, with no corrosion. (Which of course is the first post I made in this thread, because that's how mine died) Then I'd do the same with the power lead to the motor.

 

[GRNTACO]

I'd double and tripple check the MOTOR ground circuit. That's the big cable at the bottom of the motor. And make sure the stud is tight in the motor, and the cable is tight on the stud, and the cable connects tightly on the battery, with no corrosion. (Which of course is the first post I made in this thread, because that's how mine died) Then I'd do the same with the power lead to the motor.

I've been that route 4 times now so I went as far as cleaning the paint off where the ground stud goes into the motor thinking I could get better contact.

I am going to call Warn this morning and see what they have to say.