• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Yamaha based single seat buggy build

Dan_Goodwin

Birmingham, AL
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
118
Since I've been a long time lurker and first time poster I figured I would introduce myself and bring you up to date on my latest project that is a bit different than most Hardline build threads. I've grown up riding and wrenching on off road toys while also doing some mild fab work like trailers, rear axle swaps and helped with a few roll cages. I was on the Auburn Baja team from 2010-2012 and jumped to the race organizing committee in 2012 to help with the race in 2012 and most recently 2015. With the majority of my friends having RZRs and me being on a college student budget, I wanted fun, affordable and something RZR sized with a cage that would allow me into parks that weren't ATV friendly. The idea was to be able to follow a RZR around a park, not necessarily to out wheel it.

If you aren't familiar with the Baja SAE series, I'll give you a quick summary- it's a collegiate design series where teams are given a set of rules and a 10hp Briggs motor (that cannot be modified) and are told to build an off road race car to compete in events across the country. Each event consists of a design and cost report, strict tech inspection, 5 individual events and a 4 hours endurance race. While the Briggs is no powerhouse, it is impressive what these cars will do with that little HP- the previous Auburn cars topped out around 40+ mph.

https://youtu.be/4gZJVyR-MlI?list=FLsRmMRyilqKcO4AT-_l97jg
(I'm having trouble embedding this)

At Auburn old cars are given to the captain of that year when the car has exceeded its useful life (aka broken beyond feasible repair), but when 2013 suffered a broken gearbox and was rusting away in a container, I saw my opportunity for a buggy build and managed to work out a deal on it. All that was left was a bare frame with suspension arms bolted on and a few small parts, but I had a complete, well-engineered and well-built frame. Here it is the day I drug it on my trailer and back to my apartment:



Here was 2013 at the New York race:



Due to safety and SAE insurance the frame rules are pretty strict, which is why this frame looks like it does (no she's not the prettiest girl at the dance- but not bad). The entire car was designed in SolidWorks and is built to withstand a beating, but also to stay as light as possible. Originally the 2013 car was set up to run a CVT to gearbox/ rear diff setup with a 64" wheelbase and a 60" front track width. The entire frame is 1" 4130 chromoly, with some 1.25" sprinkled in a few spots, so its very light weight- to the tune of 400# when fully assembled in race trim. Speaking in terms of power to weight ratio, this frame doesn't need a ton of power to be quick as it was respectable with the Briggs motor.

With the frame in my hands it was time to plan this thing out and begin the parts hoarding. The idea behind the rebuild was to use OEM parts that I could bolt on to avoid having to worry about a custom machined part failing and me being stuck. Before I bought anything I had to decide what the end goal was going to be with this rig; that was to be a reliable, capable and affordable trail machine with all the goodies- not some high HP RZR killer. The other main goal here was to learn- I wanted to get my feet wet with a mild build so that I could build up a production SxS one day. I decided to stick with 2wd since 4wd was just too involved and was going too be expensive to be feasible. Since keeping the IRS was also a priority, my search for a drivetrain was really not even a choice at all: enter the Polaris Outlaw 525 IRS.



This is a KTM powered sport quad Polaris made in the mid to late 2000's that was an IRS chain drive with Fox Podiums at all 4 corners. Polaris is a big sponsor of the Baja SAE series and there is rumor that this rear suspension design was from a winning Baja SAE car, but I have never confirmed that. After watching eBay for a few months and winning some cheap parts I had an Outlaw frame (for suspension points), all 4 shocks, rear diff and axles and rear a arms at my doorstep, all for around $800.

I started looking at Yamaha sport quads for a donor for 2 reasons, the first was I am a big fan of their reliability. The second had to do with the design of 2013 itself; Auburn has always used Yamaha parts for design, so all the ball joints and tie rod ends I got with 2013 would work on a Yamaha knuckle. Craigslist delivered with a crusty, but complete Warrior 350 for $500. With a great reputation for durability, strong aftermarket support, respectable power and reverse I felt this was the perfect candidate. Another thing to keep in mind here- the Warrior and baja car are within 20# of each other, so the power to weight ratio was going to be very respectable here.



Questions, comments and constructive criticism are welcome.

More updates to come!
 
Since I'm home this semester on a work rotation I decided it was time to make some progress on 2013 before I needed to get back to working on lake toys for the summer. I ordered some 1" .095 DOM, 2.5x1" and 2x1" .120 tube to build the back half of the frame. While the wall thickness is a tad (okay…a lot) overkill, I wanted this to be able to handle an upgraded motor in the future, just in case. I began by transferring the bracketry from the Polaris frame to the new center frame member:



That was then welded to the frame along with the other members to create the motor deck and rear bracing:



The Warrior came with a parts motor I used for mock up:



I kept the shock tabs to use as a jig, so now it was time to tube the rear of the buggy out:





With weight being such an issue on a baja car many teams run a hammock style seat, which works but is far from comfortable. I borrowed an idea from a buddy and made tabs to mount the back and seat from a RZR into the frame to solve that problem:

 
It was time to begin planning out controls and linkages, so the Warrior was stripped and the mock up motor swapped for the real one:



I had measured for exhaust clearance when making the new rear frame so I wouldn't toast my back. I plan to put some form of heat shield back here, either attached to the firewall or an exhaust wrap.



I knew the chain was going to be close the a arm, but it's currently touching, so I will have to come up with a fix for that, probably in the form of a chain tensioner.



Since I needed to free up the fab table for another project (and really just wanted to see this thing on the ground), I threw the suspension on and set it on the ground. I was super pumped to see it at this stage, even if it is a LONG way from being done… the last 20% of the work takes 80% of the time, right?





The fronts are just rollers for the time being and will eventually match the rears. The tires are 26" AT 489s on Douglas aluminium wheels which are old baja stock ( read: CHEAP). This is the lightest wheel/ tire combo that Auburn ever found that still performs well.

I scored a RZR wheel, column and steering shaft for $57 on eBay with hopes of using a RZR rack with it, though I'd make it work with anything at that price. The RZR rack ended up not working due to the input shaft being offset to the driver's side, taking up the real estate that my brake pedal needed. The backup plan all along was to use a rack from desertkarts.com, a favorite among Baja SAE teams that don't build their own. I wanted to maintain the tilt on the wheel to ease egress in case of an emergency, so I tacked some tabs into place to mount the column and see how I liked it:



The wheel is at a comfortable height, but for anyone but me it's just too close to your chest, so I will have to end up rethinking how the wheel will mount. I still need to work out new front petal mounts, so I can probably work in a wheel mount as I design that.
 
Now to catch up to this week:

Another main focus on this build was to improve the looks category as much as possible. I was thinking along the lines of a trophy truck- strong, functional frame with attractive body work hung from it so I got to looking at UTV hoods, mainly Rhino and RZR. While I do have reservations about RZR quality, I do think they look good so, I had the scatterbrained idea to section a RZR hood and put it on 2013 since it was going to be easier to narrow than a Rhino . After taking some measurements on a friend's RZR I knew I could narrow the center hood/ storage bin section and it would probably fit. After literally finding a front clip on the side of the road, I did some Dremel surgery, laid the 2 halves in and had this:







I was pleasantly surprised with how well this fit, even though this still needs lots of trimming to make fit like I want. Since I now have a front clip to design around, I will be adding some tube to serve as door bars since (SAE limits the height of the side impact member) as well as adding a sub frame to hold up the hood. What will this look like? I have no idea yet. :rolf:

After a series of unfortunate finds over on minibuggy.net, I stumbled on a thread where a guy rebuilt an old baja car with a 20hp vtwin Briggs (stroked to 49hp :eek:) and believe it or not the guy was very competitive in a series much like UTVRR. After looking up the rules 2013 will fit in the Unlimited Class since there is no production rule there. The notable rules I found were:

• All UTVs will be required to meet the UTV Rally Raid minimum safety standard requirements, which include:
• Solid hardtop over a 4-point cage that is tied in the frame of the vehicle, solid doors or door bars that extend from the b-pillar at shoulder height to the a-pillar at the ankle/knee height,
• 1-2.5pd rated fire extinguishers.
• Window nets or arm restraints are required.
• A loud horn is required to be in working order at the time the race starts.
• A rear facing amber or yellow "dust" light is recommended, this light must be visible in daylight and high dust conditions.
• Machine Width: UTV machine width can be a maximum 68 inches;
• Rear tail/brake lights must remain on at all times.


Now I have some specific guidelines to shoot for for the remainder of the build. If it's safe enough to race, it's safe enough to be a trail machine in my opinion.

Will it actually be competitive (or actually ever compete)?

Who knows.

Would it be fun?

Absolutely!
 
Re:

Get another warrior rear setup and you can chain drive a front 3rd for 4wd. Maybe add a clutch/disco setup on it to have drive options.

When I ran Baja Perdue always brought a 4wd car.

I also recall seeing pics of a Baja car that used a number of sami parts in its drivetrain.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
Re:

paradisepwoffrd said:
Get another warrior rear setup and you can chain drive a front 3rd for 4wd. Maybe add a clutch/disco setup on it to have drive options.

When I ran Baja Perdue always brought a 4wd car.

I also recall seeing pics of a Baja car that used a number of sami parts in its drivetrain.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


I seriously looked into 4wd, but between the cost to buy/ build a long travel front end and the massive amount of frame mods, I would have been better off to start from scratch. The foot box on this car is TINY.... bigfoot won't be driving this anytime soon.
 
Summer toys are back in the garage, so progress on the buggy will be on hold for a bit, which isn't a problem given the amount of things I still need to work out.
The first is building new a arms and fixing the ball joint angles.



These arms are spares made out of scrap, so they need replacing. I am replacing the custom CNC'd knuckle with a bolt on Yamaha part which is slightly shorter than what it was designed with, hence the ball joint issue. It doesn't appear that the knuckle will cause any handling or steering issues currently, but I may build a heim and extended stud to correct geometry.

Back on the table it goes…

 
Top