Another lil something.....

Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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So I got the console mounted into place, switch pod mounting done and the hand brake. Now its time to get the switch wiring done next.
 

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I got the switch pod wired up and the chassis side. I made it so its plug and play :awesomework:
 

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So I was pre planning the start of tinning the rig and found the hydro lines were above the line for the top dash panel. I threw the seat in and sat in it and found the steering wheel was way too low (tilted) to the point my knee was in the way. So I looked it over and cut the orbital mount off and redid it. I lowered it a tad and changed the angle--should be perfect now.
 

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Now to start the learning curve :redneck: and teach myself some tin skillz :redneck:.

I started with the easy panel..
 

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Now the fun began. I don't think there was any pre-planning for any sort of floor in this thing. It took a bunch of measuring, cardboard and more measuring but I was able to get the panels made for under the seats. It isn't a perfect fit (back corners where they meet the console) but I think they turned out pretty good and able to do them both in one shot.
 

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This piece was tricky with having tube in the way on both sides. It just took time to fit,mark,remove,cut..

I was able to get a good fit though and happy with the outcome.
 

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This is the gauge panel that came in the stash of parts... I tossed it :redneck:
 

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And this is what I came up with. I ended up having to do it twice due to finding out the limitations of the tool the hard way,lol..

It was very tricky though due to the multiple angles and the fact it was between panels. I ended up overlapping the top dash panel simply to keep any water from walking down onto the electrical center.

Now its ready for the gauges and the master battery switch.
 

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Time to give it a VRRRMMMMM/go pedal :redneck:
 

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The accel pedal mount ended up being easier than I thought it would be--actually pretty simple once I got the pedal up in the general area.
 

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The Lokar mount at the throttle body and cable were pretty slick and worked very well..
 

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Looks like it will work...
 

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This was tricky to do--brake switch due to how it was setup internally. At rest the circuit was closed so as the pedal was pushed I needed it to move towards the at rest position. Had it been open at rest and closed when moved it would have been much simpler to setup.
 

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A little light test. The 4" HID's are pretty bright.
 

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This was tricky to do--brake switch due to how it was setup internally. At rest the circuit was closed so as the pedal was pushed I needed it to move towards the at rest position. Had it been open at rest and closed when moved it would have been much simpler to setup.

Why wouldn't you use a switch that plums in to your brake lines?
 
The switch was in the pile of parts and I had already finished the brake hardlines
 
Next I went ahead and got all the brake hard lines done.
 

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I got the gauges wired and connectors to ease in any needed tear down. I also had to modify the ecm top bracket to give room for the main power switch.
 

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One thing I had noticed was the vent on the th400 was gone. It was hard but I was able to see down the hole and found a good portion of the vent still in the trans. Took some work to dig it all out. At this point I had a few choices one being drilling and tapping to 1/8". I chose to take 1/4" hardline and filed it down to a interference fit and worked it into the trans.
 

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Next it was back to more sheetmetal. I got the pieces made for at your feet on both sides. They turned out exactly how I was hoping.
 

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Last thing left was belt mounts. Made the mounts then modified the pieces under the seats.
 

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So that completes the interior sheet metal. My original intention was to also enclose at the front of the trans. I spent a good few hours and could not come up with any good ideas that didn't look like complete ****.
 

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I went ahead and pulled the skid plate to mainly clean all the crap out of it. When I did so I found many of the stainless bolts not even tightened and I found out why. I ended up having to literally break many of them and had to drill a few heads off. I didn't find out why until I went to reinstall it with new metal bolts. Many of the holes did not line up perfect causing the threads to be galled since stainless is soft. I had to had work a bunch of the holes but got everything to go back on right.
 

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Time to tear down and get the inside painted as best as possible.
 

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