SXOR single seater build

[Eddyj]

What are the four buttons above gauge cluster?

 

[hokie_yj]

They go with the cluster. They perform different functions on the cluster. Programming, changing displays, clearing alarms, etc. I haven't read real deep into the manual yet. They might not all be used in my application.

 

[sleepsontoilet]

Very clean, makes me really want to redo my whole interior.

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man. This is my second attempt at it, the first one looked like ****, it's in pieces in the scrap pile now.

 

[hokie_yj]

I've been doing a few things here and there over the last few days. I got some longer bolts and mounted the battery disconnect. I also got the new shifter boot in. I enlarged the hole in the panel and made some adjustments on the linkages and got the shifters working smoothly.

I also cut a panel to fill the hole beside the seat.



I also got the radiator shroud cut and mounted the Volvo fan.















And here's the start of building the driveshafts. The yokes are Spicers, part# 3-28-777. They're 1350 yokes for 2"x.120" tubing. The four on the right are welded to short pieces of 2"x.120" to fit into the main shaft which will be 2.5"x.250" tubing. The two on the left are welded to 2.25"x.250" tubing to match the O.D. of the WOD carrier bearing stub. The mid shafts will be 2.5"x.120" tubing. I cut the tubing at work on our big vertical bandsaw to get the squarest cut I could. I heated the tubing in the oven to about 275* and pressed the yokes in then welded them up. I know they won't be perfect, but I think they'll be close enough. They're probably going to have some vibrations with the angles they'll be running at anyway.

 

[Beerj]

Those interior panels turned out real nice. But I have to wonder, no cup holder?

 

[hokie_yj]

I guess that is something I overlooked. Lol.

 

[mcutler]

Re:

Joe's racing has some nice roll bar mounted cup holders

matt

 

[Beerj]

You could relocate the Killswitch to the upper right of the cluster and sink a cup holder in its place if there's enough room below

 

[hokie_yj]

I worked on the midship shafts today and got both of them tacked together and the carrier bearing mounts tacked in place. The carrier bearings are WOD's single ended bearings. The weld yoke is a Spicer 3-28-777 welded into a short piece of 2.25"x.250" DOM to sleeve into the 2.5"x.120" tubing. And the end yoke is a forged 32 spline 1350 yoke from Northern Drivetrain.

Starting on the rear shaft.





Here's my redneck fixture I set up to get them as square as possible and the joints in phase. I'm sure there are much better ways of doing this, but it's what I came up with and it worked pretty well for me.



All tacked together.



And tacked in place.



This picture makes it look a little closer than it really is, but it should clear the shifter linkage just fine.



Looking back from where the pinion yoke will be. As you can see this thing will see some pretty crazy angles.



Putting together the front shaft.



Mounted in place.



And looking back from the pinion again. The front shaft won't have near the angle that the rear does.



I originally planned to put short slips in these shafts hoping that would help with vibration. I already had all the parts to make the shortest slip I could find. But I mentioned it in another thread and Ryan from He-Man Machine recommend that I not put a slip in them. And since he designed and builds the bearings I figured I should definitely take his advice.

 

[zjtrey]

Looks good Ben, I jig my driveshafts up the same way.

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man, yours is looking great too.

 

[hokie_yj]

I started working on the 3rd members but didn't get very far. When I laid everything out I discovered that Currie shipped me the wrong outer pinion bearing. The bearing they shipped is for a 35 spline pinion but I'm using a stick 28 spline pinion. I called them up and the order sheet had the right bearing on it, somebody just grabbed the wrong one when they packed the order. The correct bearings are on the way, but won't be here until next week.

This is my first attempt at any kind of gear work, so this will be a big learning experience for me. Everybody says 9" gears are about the easiest to do though so I have that going for me. I've been reading a lot of how to articles and watching a lot of YouTube videos trying to learn.

Here's the parts list for the 3rds:

Yukon HD nodular 3.25" cases
35 spline spools
Yukon 5.13 gears
Ring gear bolt locks from ZukIzzy on Pirate
Currie big bearing "upside down" pinion supports
Trail Gear "upside down" pinion guards
Billet 1350 yokes

While I'm waiting on the bearings I went ahead and did a few things that I could get done.

I started off cleaning up the cases with acetone and got a couple good coats of paint on them.



I threw one of my spare shafts in the chain vise and used it to hold the spool while I mounted and torqued the ring gear.



Here you can see the ring gear bolt locks.



And here with the tabs bent up to keep the bolts from backing out. The bolts are also torqued with red loctite.



Went ahead and pressed the inner pinion bearing race in.



And pressed the inner bearing on the pinion.



And here's my high dollar spanner wrench for the side adjuster nuts. Lol.



That's about all I got done. I could have started on the other 3rd but I didn't want to get parts mixed up between the two so I figured it would be best to just wait.

 

[muledick]

Sweet build! I'm really interested in how the rear driveshaft works, If you have a lot or noticeable vibrations.

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man. I'm sure there will be some, but hopefully not too bad.

 

[hokie_yj]

I finished up one 3rd member today. It took a few hours and several attempts but I ended up with a pattern that I'm pleased with. When I started the build I planned to just pay someone else to set up the gears, but I'm glad now that I took the time to learn and do it myself. It's really not that bad at all.

Here's the final gear pattern. The backlash is at just over .010" with a pinion shim height of .019".





And the completed 3rd member.





I still have one more to do. Hopefully I can get at least started on it before I have to go in to work tomorrow night.

 

[hokie_yj]

The fact that the backlash was a little out of spec was bugging me so I made some adjustments today and got the backlash down to .009".



But a few of the ring gear teeth just barely drag on the pinion pilot bearing housing now. Here you can see where it's dragging on the toe of the ring gear.



I checked the backlash in several spots and it's consistent so I don't think runout is an issue. It doesn't lock it down and I can still easily turn the yoke by hand. You can just feel it barely drag as the teeth rub. As bad as I hate to I'm going to tear it back apart.

I've been doing some reading and I guess this is a pretty common problem. Wish I would have found that information before I started, oh well I guess I'll just chalk this up as a learning experience. I think rather than grind more on the pilot bearing housing I'm just going to pull the ring gear back out and grind the toe down just a little. From everything I've read that seems like the best solution.

One step forward, two steps back... Oh well.

 

[hokie_yj]

I didn't really take many pics but I tore the 3rd back apart today and ground the ring gear toe down just a bit. I went ahead and did the ring gear for the other 3rd as well.



I got the first one put back together. The ring gear clears good now, and the backlash and pattern both look good. I also got the other 3rd set up today but I didn't take any pics of it. It looks identical to the first one though.

 

[hokie_yj]

I finally had a few hours free to work on this thing a bit today. I finished up the chassis side of the brake lines. The hard lines are .25" 316 stainless seamless tubing. The fittings are Swagelok compression fittings. And the flex hoses are Swagelok teflon lined braided stainless with .25" tubing ends. I also added a valve in the rear brake line to use as a parking brake if needed. I'm also going to split some rubber hose to go over the tubing and flex hoses anywhere there's any rubbing.

 

[sleepsontoilet]

Dang, those are some sweet brakes.

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man. The hats and rotors are Spidertrax stuff, the calipers are Wilwood.

 

[Blase]

What pressure are those Swagelok compression fittings rated at? I guess I always assumed that compression fittings couldn't handle the pressure of a braking system and that was why the OEM's used the flared connections instead.

 

[hokie_yj]

The flex hoses are rated at 3000 psi working pressure and 12000 psi burst pressure. The compression fittings and hard lines are rated at roughly 7500 psi. These aren't normal compression fittings that you buy at the parts store. I install these fittings almost daily at work in both liquid and gas service( CO, oxygen, hydrogen, h2s, etc.) on systems that run at 2000 psi or higher. And also on hydraulic systems that run closer to 5000 psi.

With manual brakes I don't believe I'll come anywhere close to those pressures. If this was a boosted brake system I might be more hesitant about running them, but I still think they would be ok.

It's expensive stuff, and definitely not the most economical way to plumb a brake system, but luckily I have a very good source for them.

 

[zjtrey]

hokie are you for hire on brake plumbing? :tc hahahaha

 

[hokie_yj]

Haha! I guess I could be. You might reconsider if you saw all the scrap pieces I screwed up trying to bend these though.

 

[zjtrey]

haha i know the feeling… brake plumbing is coming up on my pile of parts also, I'm dreading ordering all the pieces. Im planning to do a combination of AN flex lines and double flared hard lines..

what major stuff are you lacking for a shakedown run? I feel like Im getting close but I know it'll seem farther away again when i start working on "finishing"

 

[hokie_yj]

I still have to blow the whole thing back apart and weld, paint, wire, and plumb. So basically everything. Lol

 

[hokie_yj]

I'm still working on this thing when I get the chance, just most of the stuff I'm doing right now isn't really worth taking pics of. I'm kinda at the point of staring at it and trying to think if there's anything else that needs to be done before I tear it all apart for welding, paint, wiring, and plumbing. It's getting closer, but still have several little piddly things to do. I did take these pics the other day while i was working on it.

These are the (+) and (-) bus bars. They're from Blue Sea Maraine, and they're rated at 1000 amps. They're seriously overkill, and honestly I didn't realize just how big they were when I was ordering them. They ended up not fitting where I had originally hoped to put them so they landed here under the hood.





This is the panel that goes on the B-pillar behind the headrest. It came with the chassis when I bought it. I just cut some holes for the intake and shoulder belts, and so that the transmission cooler can get some airflow to it. The red lexan obviously won't match with the black and copper, but rather than cutting something else I'm just going to paint it black to match.







I realize this is a pretty pathetic update, but I just wanted to let anybody that cares know that I am still working on it and progress is being made. Most of it just isn't worth posting about.

 

[3j7]

Been following your build, looks great! Love these little buggies!
I am in the same stage of build as you, hope to have a sanding party in a couple of weeks..

 

[hokie_yj]

Thanks man!