Edjumicate me... fox 2.0 tech?

I am pretty sure I know the answer to this but figured I would check with your vast experience and knowledge and separate all the crap I have read.

Heres the scoop, my pops just bought an awesome jeep based buggy on tons, it is set up with 14in fox 2.0s on all four corners.

it has a off road rear sway bar which is disconnected at the moment due to an aluminum arm (a whole other question? should I ditch the aluminum arms? 1 is stripped completely.)

It rolls pretty good under torque and will lean heavy to the right. I will for sure be hooking up the back sway bar and thinking about a front one, but is this the only way to control unloading on airs?

It will also lean pretty good when turning, it is on 40in stickies with detroits front and back, four link rear and 3 link front. geometry seems legit.

Put a piston in the shock with a single hole won't cure the leaning problem but helps a lot by slowing down the shock oil won't be such a instant lean

The sway bar will cure the body roll. My last buggy just had the one in the rear and worked perfect. Having them front and rear can make the ride pretty rough on a lumpy trail. Some guys use bump stops to control body roll also.

These won't prevent shock unloading though. You'll need some limiting straps centered on the axle for that. Some people set the straps with an inch or so of slack. When I set them up, I pump my shocks up about 2" higher than the ride height I want then pull the body down and hook up the strap.
There are a lot of opinions on this topic but this set-up has worked well for me.

Here's a borrowed pic from Ricky B. of a CSC Fab buggy set up with some slack in the strap.

^x2

Had the same issue leaning in low speed turns on my yota. Sway bar fixed it. Just need to add a limiting strap for peace of mind and it should be set.

thanks guys. i have never wheeled this setup till now... im a die hard ori guy...

More than likely your valving is way off, I assume your talking about air shocks.sway bays are just a patch for a poorly set up suspension they will limit your travel also. Roll up the rubber o ring at the bottom of your shafts and your valving should be inscribed on the eyelet. You should be able to stiffen the valving up and fix your problem. If you can make it work without the sway bars it will go alot better.

I will check the valving when I get back out there this week.. any idea what valving should be on a rig of this size? (4100 lbs)

I called fox they said adding oil would make it more rigid of a ride but prevent it from compressing so easily, valving would affect rebound and might help at higher speeds but probably not with what I was describing... It already rides firm, not real bad but I wouldnt want to firm it up and more? Does this seem accurate?

Adding oil will make a big difference on how easy it compresses. Pirate has a really good wright up about them. They take some adjusting with nitrogen and oil, but once you get them dialed in they work great. I would run at least one sway bar will help with the body roll in my experience. I run straps in the center of mine with about 1.5 2" of play.

So I never would believe air shocks to be so stable!!!

I added oil and dropped the psi of nitrogen and the difference was amazing! No sway bar and no straps last night and I had zero body roll on acceleration, climbing, off camber. I could not believe how stable it was, it was like driving a whole new rig! Even at high speeds it was so much better.

I have limit straps I will be mounting on Friday when I ride again, ended up with 3in of slack front and rear.

The rig does have a swaybar but we had it off when tuning and will be hooked back up on Friday, should be helpful for the high speed stuff, but not needed at all for crawling.

Thanks for all the input guys!

Any exact numbers on amount of oil and PSI of nitrogen you are running now?

We are running 365 cc oil and 200 psi front and 360cc oil and 180 psi rear... which gave 5 inches of up travel front and rear with a full tank of gas and passengers. Originally we had 345 front and 340 rear with much higher psi.

All I ever read about airs id fill them ALL the way up with oil for stability So yours are close to being topped off now?

Yes. i am pretty sure that370cc is max. for the 2.0s

Alot. People just throw. Air shocks on and get frustrated right off the bat and pull them back off,I'm glad you figured yours out and made them work.when they're setup right they are not a bad choice for the money.

Elliott said:

Alot. People just throw. Air shocks on and get frustrated right off the bat and pull them back off,I'm glad you figured yours out and made them work.when they're setup right they are not a bad choice for the money.

Click to expand...

I agree... they rock when set up right. esp. for the money....