1.25 Heims

I have used Ruff Stuff, Barnes and Ballistic on 2 different rigs. It was hard to beat Ballistics %20 off specials some years back, then they stopped doing 20% off deal & started charging "handling" along with shipping. Ruff stuffs quality is good it appears...you just have to time it for a good sale. Barnes has the best straight up deal. Quality appears to be just as good as the rest from what I've seen. Another things that's nice is there package deals with Heim, bung, jam nut, & misalignment spacers together -at a great price.

QA1 are top notch rod ends, and it sounds like there are some other good options here too.

FK or QA1 period. I've seen the bargain brand shear off and break a ton of ****. Save your money elsewhere.

Aurora

I am leaning towards Rockwell. Money's getting tight and I still need ORIs, orbitals and master cylinders. I think the 1.25's will be overkill with my weight but that's the whole point.

1.25's Kush? I was thinking you were a Job 1.0 kinda guy :smoke:

rednecklights said:

I'll tell you what , I was dead set on ori's but then I started really paying attention to some folks I ride with that "had" them. The term churched up air shock has been used as many times as I heard cloud o titties.


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Had? Im guessing they got rid of them.

Limiting straps, bumps and spring rates don't fit in my brain housing group. Titties and beer do.....though you didn't mention beer

lowbudgetjunk said:

I am leaning towards Rockwell. Money's getting tight and I still need ORIs, orbitals and master cylinders. I think the 1.25's will be overkill with my weight but that's the whole point.

1.25's Kush? I was thinking you were a Job 1.0 kinda guy :smoke:

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Gonna buy cheap heims and high dollar shocks.... So when the cheap heim shits the bed, it takes the high dollar shock with it....

Re:

Cheap is a relative term I guess. I've seen guys running 7/8's with them and surviving? Any pictures or videos of the Rockwell's shitting the bed? I am still in the research phase, so I am still reading and watching. Buggy will be around 3k pounds as a guess. Is a 1.25 necessary on a crawler with 300hp and no aspirations of bouncing? Maybe, maybe not.

Kel Lawrence

Re:

lowbudgetjunk said:

Cheap is a relative term I guess. I've seen guys running 7/8's with them and surviving? Any pictures or videos of the Rockwell's shitting the bed? I am still in the research phase, so I am still reading and watching. Buggy will be around 3k pounds as a guess. Is a 1.25 necessary on a crawler with 300hp and no aspirations of bouncing? Maybe, maybe not.

Kel Lawrence

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I'm just giving you ****, hell I run 3/4 heims and they hold up fine on the ol yota.

It is kinda funny when you think about it tho, to buy shocks that are $600/each, but try to save $200 on heims.

Re:

Agreed. I kinda lol'd when I reread it all. I was thinking, damn. He's usually the voice of reason and not a ****. I guess I am just looking for good quality without the advertising cost or maybe I just like chasing my tail. Either way, I am 8400 into a 10k, supposed build. With minimum 4000 left til finished. Maybe a good nap and a glass of pinot noir will give me some clarity. Too many long nights and too much traveling is making my brain hurt.

Kel Lawrence

Keep in mind regarding 1.25" rod ends, that the heat treated QA1 EXM Series Rod Ends are what we run in all our rigs we build, with very few being the exception are running chromoly rod ends. The shear size of the 1.25 is what give most of the strength, especially compared to a 1" bolt, or if using a high-mis, 3/4" bolt. A QA1 EMX 1.25" rod end is still very affordable for the quality, chromoly isn't always needed.

Since I switched to QA1 rod ends I have virtually eliminated swapping them out. It's worth the few extra bucks


2010 Jim's Garage 4429
2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO

1.25s are not necessary on a non bouncer IMO. Seen many of them beat 7/8 and 3/4 heims to death and never broke em.

BustedKnucklefilms said:

1.25s are not necessary on a non bouncer IMO. Seen many of them beat 7/8 and 3/4 heims to death and never broke em.

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I sent you a Pm a month or so ago never heard back.

Re:

2 years going strong on Ruffstuff. Not even loose yet. Ultra4 style rig.

BustedKnucklefilms said:

1.25s are not necessary on a non bouncer IMO. Seen many of them beat 7/8 and 3/4 heims to death and never broke em.

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Yes, but I know me. Anyone else destroy a 22re just riding the main trail?

Once I build a set of tons, I want to know that if I decide to do something stupid, I should be ok as far as the heims go. If I went with 7/8 or 3/4, that's when I would put my flame suit on for TBITOY.

I may give ol WOD a crack as well. They participate in the board and I never hear anything bad about them.

lowbudgetjunk said:

Yes, but I know me. Anyone else destroy a 22re just riding the main trail?

Once I build a set of tons, I want to know that if I decide to do something stupid, I should be ok as far as the heims go. If I went with 7/8 or 3/4, that's when I would put my flame suit on for TBITOY.

I may give ol WOD a crack as well. They participate in the board and I never hear anything bad about them.

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Run 7/8 on the uppers, that'll save a little $ and be easier to package.

1.25 heims are damn huge,

I used to sell (and run) the cheap Midwest control heims, I replaced them with Barnes as they wore out, the Barnes are beefier, have better races and last longer.

Kel.
Ur screen name is low budget. Here's tha deal. The Barnes Enduro joints are pretty beefy. Here I have a picture beside one of their heim joints. If you happen to break one of these I will gladly kiss your ass. And then buy you a new one. But I probably wouldn't have to worry about that because they will send you another one I guarantee you. There a fraction of the price as some of the joints I have seen. I highly doubt that in our lifetime we will break these. Look.

Huge u say? I AGREE! Holy **** I had no clue exactly how big of a difference there was. Put beside a spray paint lid to give Ya perspective.

I guess the next question is chromoly or steel?

Chromoly helps with deflection and returning back to original shape/condition. Is it the threaded part of the rod end or the round part of the joint we should be worried about? Where's the failure point on such a large joint?