Roll Cage Redesign/Rebuild.......asking for input

I'm considering rebuilding my cage. My current cage doesn't have enough head room and I honestly do not think it would hold up in a bad rollover. I've researched a lot on Pirate and on HL, but I'm confused on what material to use......Sch 80 1.5" steel pipe or spend the extra money for 2" .250 DOM. I'm planning on doing the entire cage connecting every joint with a node, triangulation, and gussets instead bends. My new plan will be a very simple 2 seater similar to the top pic, but put together like the bottom pic. It'll be dovetailed, no cab, and a lot of different angles supporting each other. I need some feedback from the real builders.......I figure that if ya'll can build a rock bouncer that survives the abuse, then you probably know you stuff. Also, all I have is 110 Mig Welder that uses flux core. I read on Pirate that if done properly, flux core is stronger.......I don't know for sure.

I took the pics off of Pirate.

1. What about the pipe vs DOM?
2. Would it be a strong design for a lightweight all Toyota drivetrain and 22RE on 39.5's?

Tube is for fabbing, pipe is for shitting... That said, pipe is fine if that is all you have as an option. Design and weld quality play a bigger factor in safety IMO... .250" wall is to thick for a cage. 1.75" x .120 wall is plenty sufficient. Only reason to go thicker is if you are looking for dent resistance of the tube, or you have a structurally unsound/minimal tube approach to the cage, where you are asking more of the tube that is there (i.e. minimal triangulation, minimal tubes etc). The chassis I build use either 1.75" or 2" tube, with .120 wall for anything that will get hit by a rock, .095" or .065" wall for tubes that will only see compression and tension loads

Given your limited resources, I would just pay a reputable builder to do it. Text me and I'll get you in touch with my buddy in AZ. 865-748-5260

Mine is a mix of dom and hrew. The points that would most likely be impacted in a roll or are structural parts (a and b pillars) are Dom. The rest is hrew. There's a billion debates about this and everyone is different. I wanted Dom because if I roll I want to have a better chance of walking away. Just my .02.

I appreciate the advise and ya'll are right.....it's been debated for years. I was finding threads on Pirate dated back to the early 2000's. Also, the idea of paying someone to build the main hoops, A and B pillars and what not is good idea. I'm limited on my fab skills and knowledge. Keep in mind, I'm a BP Agent.....that basically certifies me a professional Hide-and-seek player and not much else.........I can ride an ATV like no one's business though.....LOL

make sure you check craigs list for tube !! I found enough .134 and .095 dom for my project way cheeper than I was quoted everywhere else. you can do it bp man !! I'm a chef and have never bent a single tube till now. of course I have guidance but have bent and coped everything but the grill hoop myself ...



BUT I STILL CAN'T WELD FOR **** !!!

My opinion. Use DOM. 1.75". .25 wall for bottom that contacts rocks. .188 for A and B and any other main overhead structure. .120 wall for the balance.

I found some DOM nearby for fairly cheap. Gotta wait til after Christmas before I start anything major though. I appreciate the advise!!

JohnG said:

My opinion. Use DOM. 1.75". .25 wall for bottom that contacts rocks. .188 for A and B and any other main overhead structure. .120 wall for the balance.

Click to expand...

I ran 2x3 1/4 box tube down the side ...

All right, so you guys have sold me on using the correct material. What's the general opinion on building a cage using nothing but triangulation and with gussets instead of bends? It won't be a "square", it will have multiple angles and nodes. I've seen a few tube buggies done this way and it appears to very strong.