SkicoFab
Well-Known Member
pro tools 105 air/hydraulic
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
A lil Something
- Thread starter crash2
- Start date
crash2
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dr drae said:What bender you using again?
Pro-tool 105hd with air over hydralic system.... I need to upgrade to an electric pump to speed the bends up a lil bit....
crash2
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84Toyota4x4 said:Not if it fails sideways, from a hard roll. Since the spreader is already partly bent, the A/B/C pillars' force inwards could collapse it, whereas a straight bar wouldnt do that IMO. Am I way far off base here?
I guess if there was a hard roll, anything would be better than nothing, and I'm sure theres downsides to any design, one way or the other.
In any case, I like the look of the bent spreaders and would probably do them in my own truck, the work looks really good too. Is there a special tool for making those dimples in the tube where you have hardware mounted? Or did you just tighten the crap out of it? Or, do you dimple it and sleeve it? It seems that the dimples would make for a weak spot? I dunno, Im a newbie
~T.J.
Sure the spreaders are bent but you have to look at a side roll the forces are pushed thru a # of spreaders--just not one. Plus with adding cross triangulation to the b pillar that will resolve that issue. But that boils down to having space to do it aka access to the rear of the rig. one reason my rig has no triangulation side/side in the b-pillar due to needing to get into the back of the rig/kids... But that can be helped by what material you use--why I strongly suggest to use DOM in all my cages....
As karl said--thats the factory stuff when by itself is weak but when properly added to is quite strong. But if you compare a cj/yj stock b-pillar to a TJ you will find the TJ is kinda the goofy ones of the lot.... And all stock b-pillars are like 2 1/8" diameter.
crash2
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Here are a few more pics :;
crash2
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One more
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
crash said:
Mike,
Same question I posed Karl; Do the plastic door surround thingies going to work?
Tony
On my design, Pat used my tubing 1.75 and the plastic pieces 'just' clip on. Those side bars have to be spacially located exactly right or the door surrounds won't work. Not that big of a deal with a hardtop, but hardtops don't seem to work good off-road anyway. So if he's going to use a factory style softtop, you might have issues with those bars being too fat.
T
crash2
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TreeClimber said:
Are you refering to the plastic parts that screw to the windshield frame?
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
crash said:
Nope, the plastic door surround pieces mount to the roll bar and go from the windshield frame down along the window edge to the body behind the door edge.
The factory TJ tops and sides clip into these pieces and the doors seal to them also.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.compositeproducts.com/application/graphics/jeep4.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.compositeproducts.com/application/door.asp&h=115&w=133&sz=4&hl=en&start=14&tbnid=nqs4wQTLmzQ6lM:&tbnh=80&tbnw=92&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dwrangler%2Bdoor%2Bsurround%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DG
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crash2
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Oh--for a soft top--I dunno
The a pillar is inboard about as far as it can go due to internal dash parts but there is quite a bit of room...
The a pillar is inboard about as far as it can go due to internal dash parts but there is quite a bit of room...
Roccrawler
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2006
- Messages
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Very nice work...
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Looking Awesome!
KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
crash said:
Yes, the factory cage is a goofy measurement, and becuause of the manufacturing process, they aren't all the same in the same areas.
HREW is strong, but I don't like how the factory stamped thier little dimples in the cage to mount seatbelts and such. Some triangulation on the factory cage with some frame tie in, and I would trust my life to it in a mild roll, but not an ass over teakettle roll down a big hill.
And somewhere, there is an article that tests the different types of tubing from poop pipe all the way to 4340. They found the DOM is almost as strong as 4340, without all the extra work of re heat treating and such. I'll see if I can dig it up.
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
KarlVP said:
Id be interested in reading this article if you can find it!
War-Jeeper
Mailbox Killing War-Ho
Bunk said:
Its required in race cars acctually
skinny_pedal
Well-Known Member
i do not believe chromo is that much stonger then DOM. the advatage to it is when running chromo in a racecar you can use a smaller wallthickness as copared to DOM, and still be legal while being as strong
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Yep, mild. It is cold drawn though, so it's much stronger than hot drawn mild steel (HREW). Plus the weld gets drawn, making it stronger, too.82toyomud said:
