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You done run this trail once. :haha:

If you run the type of link that is shown in the picture then both ends must be solid. The way it works is the mount that is mounted to the axle will rotate around the center-line of the axle (side view). The solid mounted bar will resist/stop the rotation. However if you put a shackle on...

I'm prolly wrong but I thought the 3/4T stuff was different...

IIRC this is an all or nothing swap... If it is for you swap the complete outers. You get a better break design.

X2!! There is no good reason to run leaf springs if you are going to run a HP-D44!!! Run full width and pick up some 6-over front glass and pull the bed sides. Run a 78-UP ford HP-D44 shorten the long side down to a Scout or Waggy length allowing you to run OTS axles. Just cut the cast end...

Iz faster in the desert...

I'm sure that you can find em local but here is once source: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200318711_200318711

Six States...

FWIW: The numbers like you posted are basically a FACTORY split as in they came that way from Detroit. As long as you drive in a straight line the tires will slip with those ratios even on dry pavement... Would not hurt a thang in the rocks. Those of us that ran/run a split would have had a...

FWIW... Soak the broken bolt with penetrating oil. I prefer KROIL. Any time you have to do this use a left hand drill to drill for the easy out. Drill all the way through the bolt with the left handed bit. Often the left-handed bit will unscrew the broken bolt... Should the easy out snap off you...

Ahh, yes old one... Hmmm... I do resemble that remark... Perhaps we should compare titles! :haha: But look at the first post again. Note I did not ask for an inventory, nor did I give one. What was and what do you need/want... Neither of which may exist.

So I had just such a thought... And I too have a BFH. Mostly I use it on thieves! :awesomework: Maybe we should just close and lock this thread... :fawkdancesmiley:

Not surprising :rolleyes: :haha:

I know that there are many here that fabricate, and or otherwise build their junk or build for others. I have been fabricating since about 197..... a long time. Over the years I have acquired some fabrication tools in addition to a semi complete machine shop. I would say that the two tools...

Any rig over 4000# should be 2" x 0.120 minimum tube. I have yet to need to bend more then 90-Deg. Others do...

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/model_18.htm And most importently here: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transfer_case_article.htm

This was the most common T/C in a Jeep when I started wheeling... Take it off the trans. Pull the pan. Pull the shift rail Detents & Springs. Pull the front and rear outputs and shift forks. Unbolt the keeper and knock the intermediate shaft out don't lose any of the bearings. If you are not...

What you are describing sounds like a bunch of the wrong parts in the right places or the right parts used in the wrong places... The TTB will give about 8-10 inches of travel basically stock. The limit is the shocks (and the beams). To get any real travel you must change the mounting points...

Not hard to install, Total PITA. That shaft is practically the first thing to go in to the case. Price?... If I had another one I'd give it to you, that's what I did with the last two 4WD units I had. If you've never done it Pick up the TH350 Book. Have fun!

THANK YOU! :beer: I've got this ranger that has 80-HP and gets 28-MPG. But the engine is tires and a Diesel swap into it makes sooo much sense! It wheels ok but lacks in torque.