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broke my 3rd member and gears!

japerry

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2007
Messages
2,615
Location
Bellingham
So Greg and I took apart the rear end of my poor toyota -- I should have taken photos. Anywho, this is what we found:

Teeth missing from the Gears, pinion
--AND-- the bracket that goes around the axle.. if you look at the photo below, the metal round thing to the right-center with holes around it popped out and is bent. Also, if you look at the metal piece as a clock, the bracket around it cracked completely through at about 2'oclock!
pr-c875bc-489Used489%20Casting.jpg


So I have 2 questions:

1) My front end has a toyota 8" axle with 4.88 Gears, however I can only find 4.86 gears for this Chrysler 3rd member -- its a 8.75 489 'style' 3rd member. Is this a big enough difference to cause the ring/pinion to break like this? If not, am I safe just buying a new 3rd member and yukon 4.86 gears?

2) If I cannot use the 4.86 gears, advice for new rear axles? And is anyone interested in a Chrysler 8.75 3rd with a Detroit locker, custom dutchman axles, and drums?
 
Not so sweet running the 4.86's behind the 4.88's, it's alway's loading the front end that way. I am doing the complete opposite with my toy rear and 9" front, hopefully my junk hold's fine.
 
The difference between 4.86 and 4.88 is insignificant and wont hurt anything. It is common practice to run a 5.29/ 5.38 split with a dana 44 and a toyota rear. The difference is like .04%. Just imagine on set of tires being a 64th of an inch taller than the other, it is fine.
 
The difference between 4.86 and 4.88 is insignificant and wont hurt anything. It is common practice to run a 5.29/ 5.38 split with a dana 44 and a toyota rear. The difference is like .04%. Just imagine on set of tires being a 64th of an inch taller than the other, it is fine.

Well as far as I can remember, It has alway's only been acceptable with the lower gear in the rear.
 
hmm I'm interested in this higher/lower gear issue.. also, the gear difference shouldn't even matter unless its in 4wd right?
 
If your running mud bogs go for the different R&P sizes. Mud boggers like to run a faster size on the front to keep the front tires on top of the mud. Hence the older full size trucks that used to run 4.10/4.11 R&P's. But for rock crawling or trail running with your axles locked up, I wouldn't! Your gonna have some binding somewhere in the drivetrain.

Get ahold of Megatoy66 on this site, he is always selling stuff! Here's a link to some of his stuff for sale! And #!

http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19694
 
That is a really small difference, but a lot depends on where you wheel. It will only affect it in 4wd. If you wheel in slop, it wouldn't really matter.
 
I run a HP/D44 with 5.38 gears and a Detroit in front and a Ford 9" with 5.43 gears and a spool in the rear. Guys at Randy's R&P say that is OK.
 
If your running mud bogs go for the different R&P sizes. Mud boggers like to run a faster size on the front to keep the front tires on top of the mud. Hence the older full size trucks that used to run 4.10/4.11 R&P's.

FWIW:
The numbers like you posted are basically a FACTORY split as in they came that way from Detroit. As long as you drive in a straight line the tires will slip with those ratios even on dry pavement... Would not hurt a thang in the rocks.
Those of us that ran/run a split would have had a 0.20 to about 0.80 split not 0.01.
 
The mud bog theory is partially bs, its not so much to keep the tires on top but for steering so the front is pulling the rig forward and not being pushed by the rear end. When you have 900 hp your rig pretty much skips across the mud you dont have to worry much about staying on top of it. I know some brothers that race professionally and have some pretty built rigs.
 
the only concern I had was regarding stress on the 3rd member and R/P when pounding on obsticles.. but if the difference isn't enough, then I might as well just replace it with the same stuff.
 

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