02 Xterra SAS plans, input welcome

[CHOP SHOP]

An HP44 is superior to a low pinion unit. The driveline angle is worth its weight in gold on a full body lifted rig. Not to mention not dragging the pinion over everything. Its much easier to brake a pinion when your parked on it.

The HP runs on the drive side of the gears VS the cost side that a LP rides on. Big strength gain by that alone with no fancy parts.

I've beat my waggy 44's with 36" swampers and 513 gears and only ever broke stock axles

Thats because stock shafts always die before the ring gear unless you jump and land with the gas mashed.

Get some chromo shafts and then test that diff some more.

How do you like looking for those waggy length spare shafts when ya need them? They are like looking for gold thanks to every jeep race held.

 

[hlb3]

I've done axle swaps on a few Nissan's and know a lot of others that have done them so here is my opinion.

If you are on a budget, a Waggy D44 is the way to go, its not the strongest, but if you are just running 35's it is decent enough. Personally I would find a full-size Ford HP D44 and take a couple inches off the long side, one of the Nissan guys I know has been running that setup in his hard body for years with 38's and never had any issues. Toyota axles aren't worth the cost or trouble to convert the diff over to the drivers side.

As for the rear, go with a 9" or a D60. A D44 is a HUGE step down in strength from the H233B, and unless you are running 38"-40" tires the 14-bolt is just a rock anchor.

 

[Ice]

With all the info I've gathered, and help from you guys, it doesn't seem worth it to put a 14b or d60 in the rear and only a d44 in front. I've decided to keep the stock h233 and build it. If racing, jumping, or serious hardcore wheeling were in this rigs future it might be a good idea. But its not going to be seeing that kind of abuse.

 

[chainsaw]

Well dude you've heard my opinion before but Ill give it again, number one take all the advise here with a grain of salt, alot of the guys here like to swing their 'my brand is better then your brand' dicks in the air. Keep it simple, keep it on a budget. First off the front axle, get a waggy 44, put some cheap chromo axles in it, a cheap set of 5:13s. A high pinion wont fit for the ride height your going to want plus its the correct width for your rig.

Second, rear axle, the 233b that is in your truck is one of the strongest axles put in a mid size rig, the rig gears are spendy but with the time you have you can probably find a used set cheap you can pounce on if you keep some cash stashed for said occasion. I know quite a few cats who might have a set. As for what diff, read up and make an educated decision about what your willing to put up with and how much to spend. Ill set the diff up for you so your out no money there. Another thought, you may need new bearings depending on what diff you go with, they will be a couple hundred bucks by them selfs so keep that in mind when making your decision. The 233 is also made to fit the truck so that saves you work. Plus it takes about 30 minutes to have it down to a bare housing/the diff out. Nice axle to work on.

As far as suspension, dont reinvent the wheel, save your self trouble. IMHO I think you should three link the front, do high steer, hydro assist, lift the back with some chevy 60"s and later on see how it feels/is performing. Links are difficult to tune, doing one set at a time would be much easier.

You know you can always ask me if you have questions.

I know someone put the bird in your ear about transfer case gears, dont worry about that for now, I happen to know a certain someone who wheels a gen one on 36s with stock t case gears. :redneck:

Soon you will join the dark side!

 

[Mike V.]

Ignore the tcase bird. He's dum.

 

[Damnyankee]

personnaly, i'd get a HPD44 for the front and do a 3 link. you can find them from bronco's that are a bit narrower.. can't remember what year.

and keep the Nissan rear end, 33 spline, and similar strenth to a 9".
you can get gears and lockers for them, as well as upgraded shafts.
do a triangulated 4 link in the rear. do it right and you'll have nearly no flex steer.

you can get 5.14 gears for teh nissan rear. checkout ruggedoffroad.com

 

[Damnyankee]

Well dude you've heard my opinion before but Ill give it again, number one take all the advise here with a grain of salt, alot of the guys here like to swing their 'my brand is better then your brand' dicks in the air. Keep it simple, keep it on a budget. First off the front axle, get a waggy 44, put some cheap chromo axles in it, a cheap set of 5:13s. A high pinion wont fit for the ride height your going to want plus its the correct width for your rig.

Second, rear axle, the 233b that is in your truck is one of the strongest axles put in a mid size rig, the rig gears are spendy but with the time you have you can probably find a used set cheap you can pounce on if you keep some cash stashed for said occasion. I know quite a few cats who might have a set. As for what diff, read up and make an educated decision about what your willing to put up with and how much to spend. Ill set the diff up for you so your out no money there. Another thought, you may need new bearings depending on what diff you go with, they will be a couple hundred bucks by them selfs so keep that in mind when making your decision. The 233 is also made to fit the truck so that saves you work. Plus it takes about 30 minutes to have it down to a bare housing/the diff out. Nice axle to work on.

As far as suspension, dont reinvent the wheel, save your self trouble. IMHO I think you should three link the front, do high steer, hydro assist, lift the back with some chevy 60"s and later on see how it feels/is performing. Links are difficult to tune, doing one set at a time would be much easier.

You know you can always ask me if you have questions.

I know someone put the bird in your ear about transfer case gears, dont worry about that for now, I happen to know a certain someone who wheels a gen one on 36s with stock t case gears. :redneck:

Soon you will join the dark side!

well said.

as far as the stock gears, the only time the stock gears in the T case suck is for rock crawling.. normal trail wheeling they are OK.
I ran mine for a year with stock gears and my only complaint was when i was in big rocks.:beer:

 

[chainsaw]

Ignore the tcase bird. He's dum.

Your not the bird I was talking aboot. Your a worm anyway!

 

[chainsaw]

well said.

as far as the stock gears, the only time the stock gears in the T case suck is for rock crawling.. normal trail wheeling they are OK.
I ran mine for a year with stock gears and my only complaint was when i was in big rocks.:beer:

Fair enough, and frankly true, but for a while he can heal from tje cost of the build. Hell I was considering a TX300 build, but I aint got $4000 to spare on truck parts!

 

[gtxracer]

Waggy/8.8 combo isn't bad but the bolt pattern issue comes up. Waggy/Taco rear wouldn't be too bad but I would say stick with your stock rear end. I think a waggy/h223 would be good to 35s in stock form and 37s with some bling.

I've only seen a few xterras with a SAS and 35s or 37s so make sure you post a build!

 

[Ice]

Waggy/8.8 combo isn't bad but the bolt pattern issue comes up. Waggy/Taco rear wouldn't be too bad but I would say stick with your stock rear end. I think a waggy/h223 would be good to 35s in stock form and 37s with some bling.

I've only seen a few xterras with a SAS and 35s or 37s so make sure you post a build!

Thanks for the support. The thing I like most is that sas x builds are not too common so if this build ever comes to fruition I will definitely post a detailed build thread. Fingers crossed it will be soon