10.25 pinion depth

[nhl_bullitt]

Hey guys, replacing a busted to hell gear set on my sterling. Anybody know or know how to find the pinion depth measurement? I believe it is the base of the pinion gear to the center line of the axle shaft. When i search i just find measurements regarding shims.

 

[LightBnDr]

I always had a few different inner pinion bearings that I ground the inner race on.

I would ALWAYS reuse the original pinion shim then setup em up quick and check the pattern.



Then adjust if even necessary off of that. If so the inner bearing would slide off by hand and slap another shim on then be done.

Trying to start from scratch and measure depth with a jig was for the birds and complete waste of time.

 

[ranger11]

I always had a few different inner pinion bearings that I ground the inner race on.

I would ALWAYS reuse the original pinion shim then setup em up quick and check the pattern.



Then adjust if even necessary off of that. If so the inner bearing would slide off by hand and slap another shim on then be done.

Trying to start from scratch and measure depth with a jig was for the birds and complete waste of time.

I agree, wasted money on the pinion depth tool its confusing to use and lots of math, easier to make set up bearings and races.

 

[nhl_bullitt]

Well that is basically what I am going to have to do. Sucks to have to buy a new bearing to simply ruin it, but it is a great way to go about getting the job done with out going crazy.

 

[ranger11]

I may have one I can send you if you don't want to buy it. All I ask is that it be returned. If interested post up the bearing numbers you need I'll look. I have a bunch of setup bearings I've made over the years.

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[al1tonyota]

The special tool goes in place of the carrier feeler gauge between pinion and tube then add or subtract from the number written on the end of the pinion. That's for stock anyways.

 

[ranger11]

This is the one I have, you have to measure the bearing cap spots in the diff to find center line, add the length of the little rod on the end count the little lines. When I did it it came out very close but time wise it was quicker with setup bearings.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66516?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-proform-parts&gclid=CjwKCAiAksvTBRBFEiwADSBZfPHBnelp0qswJylUADdcleeRCvo704K5rvByvX-84Kt8N0-inl1tJBoCTxoQAvD_BwE

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[EddieHall]

Another way is buy a magnetic base and a dial indicator you can use the harbour freight ..measure the factory pinion depth then record them numbers ,and remove the base without moving any settings .. install the new parts in the housing + or - buy a spare pinion bearing ..note if your using say koyo bearing as a set bearing go back with koyo some applications,do differ I've made the mistake setting up a 60 with different brands

 

[EddieHall]

I found this

Since Ford sets the stock ring and pinion to the correct specifications for your particular axle housing, the easiest way to set the correct pinion depth would be to measure the stock pinion head with good caliper and see what the difference is compared to the new pinion head (for example purposes lets say the stock pinion head measures 1.600") . Also measure the stock pinion shim and record the thickness (for example purposes lets say it measures .025"). Example, if the stock pinion head measures 1.600" and the new pinion head measures 1.597" you need to add a .003 shim to the new pinion to bring the total thickness of the new pinion to a total of 1.597"+.003"=1.600" and then add the stock pinion depth shim of .025" before you press on the new bearing. So now you have 1.597" + .003" + .025" = 1.625" which is the same as the stock pinion depth of 1.600" + .025" = 1.625" and should be right on! Second example if the new pinion is larger, lets say its 1.603", you need to "remove" .003" of thickness. We can easily do this by decreasing the thickness of the stock pinion depth shim. So we subtract .025" - .003" = .022" which is our new pinion depth shim! So now the new pinion head thickness of 1.603" + .022" = 1.625" which is exacly the same as our stock value of 1.625". If you can get new Ford Racing gears for your 10.25" axle, the pinion head thickness should be exaclty the same thickness and so all you would need to do is repalce is the stock pinion shim of .025" with a new .025" shim just so you have a new depth shim under there (remember the .025" is for example purposes only). After this the only thing you have to worry about is setting the correct back lash and carrier bearing preload. The easiest way to do this would be to put shims on your carrier housing so that the carrier fits very snug in the axle housing, adjust the backlash to specifications and then check the pattern. Once you are satisfied with the pattern, you need add an equal amount of shim thickness to both sides of the carrier to give proper bearing preload, this will not mess up your back lash . Over all, I think it should be just like rebuilding a 8.8" its just that the 10.25" axle
Hope this helps, if I missed something please let me know.


That is one of the best ways I've heard that explained.

 

[LightBnDr]

So I'm guessing you don't have a bearing removal and install tool?

Just by reading the post I'm guessing you are pulling a trashed set of gears out and wanting to start with all fresh parts out of the box?

No matter what gear set I put together I pulled the old pinion bearing. Even if I had to cut it off. In most cases the bigger the diff the more likely I had to cut the bearing off the pinion.

The point was I reused the original pinion shim. That was my base starting point.

If you have a 15 year old axle, it's guaranteed it spent its life without grenading with that shim. Chances are your gonna be right on or super close on your new gear set.

If you can get your bearing off without exploding, there's your setup bearing. Grind the inner race so it slides off with taps from a little ballpeen.

Maybe I'm just mathematically challenged but forget the nice caliper measuring and bifocals with a pencil and paper.

I believe in you

 

[Jody Treadway]

I've done 2 Sterling 10.25 this week.
First one took 0.028" with a Yukon gear (4.30) and second one took 0.031" for an OEM 3.73 gear.
I typically see them in the 0.028-0.030 range.

 

[ranger11]

Re: Re: 10.25 pinion depth

So I'm guessing you don't have a bearing removal and install tool?

Just by reading the post I'm guessing you are pulling a trashed set of gears out and wanting to start with all fresh parts out of the box?

No matter what gear set I put together I pulled the old pinion bearing. Even if I had to cut it off. In most cases the bigger the diff the more likely I had to cut the bearing off the pinion.

The point was I reused the original pinion shim. That was my base starting point.

If you have a 15 year old axle, it's guaranteed it spent its life without grenading with that shim. Chances are your gonna be right on or super close on your new gear set.

If you can get your bearing off without exploding, there's your setup bearing. Grind the inner race so it slides off with taps from a little ballpeen.

Maybe I'm just mathematically challenged but forget the nice caliper measuring and bifocals with a pencil and paper.

I believe in you

That's how I do it.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[ranger11]

Re: Re: 10.25 pinion depth

I've done 2 Sterling 10.25 this week.
First one took 0.028" with a Yukon gear (4.30) and second one took 0.031" for an OEM 3.73 gear.
I typically see them in the 0.028-0.030 range.

My starting point is .030 as well.

Sent from my XT1635-01 using Tapatalk

 

[nhl_bullitt]

Thanks for the feedback guys, and thanks a lot for the offer ranger11! Very kind of you. My friend ended up having a bearing puller for me to use.

To those that asked, this was to replace some destroyed 5.13s with another new set. It is set up tighter and perfect now thanks to my bud who has experience.

 

[TBItoy]

Thanks for the feedback guys, and thanks a lot for the offer ranger11! Very kind of you. My friend ended up having a bearing puller for me to use.

To those that asked, this was to replace some destroyed 5.13s with another new set. It is set up tighter and perfect now thanks to my bud who has experience.

What carrier are you running?

Pics of failed gears? (did the pinion teeth or ring gear teeth fail?)