why new?
and no..i have no idea.
I have a birf eliminator kit, the back surface will need to be machined to work with the kit. I would much rather use a new piece if it will need to be machined to work.
Is it a redline kit????
can i ask why you went with an eliminator kit? uses warn hubs? or yotas hubs?I have a birf eliminator kit, the back surface will need to be machined to work with the kit. I would much rather use a new piece if it will need to be machined to work.
ah, that makes sense.He's had that redline kit since before bobby got into yota axle's..... :;
You are always such a big help WT, I just don't quite know how to thank you.:fawkdancesmiley:
The bearing surface on the spindle hub is toast, there is .005 play causing wheel wobble hence the need for a new hub. Nothing else has failed ...yet. I just don't have 600+ for longs at this point. This is one of the first 5 Redline kits made. I was a crash test dummy. The spindle hub has 300,000,000+ on it since it was in this truck.
It is easier to show a picture than explain. The Brass bush is removed & the back of the mating plate is machined. The surface where the wheel bearings ride on the spindle is scored & worn rendering the spindle toast.
I plan on giving this kit to my daughter for her truck in the spring if they havent blown into chunks by then.:booo:
fixed:awesomework:
you could just have it repaired. would be nothing for a decent machine shop to take care of.It is easier to show a picture than explain. The Brass bush is removed & the back of the mating plate is machined. The surface where the wheel bearings ride on the spindle is scored & worn rendering the spindle toast.
I dont think wearing down the bearing surface for your wheel bearings counts as breaking anything inside the axle for this time around, haha.every broken anything? im assuming YES, since hes looking for spare parts....
How would you plan on repairing the wheel bearing surface of the spindle? Its machined to a diameter for the inside of the bearing/race. If its scored, you could only make it smaller by machining/grinding/polishing it down smaller, and since he said its already too small causing a wheel wobble... I guess you could machine it and then make a custom sleeve like a speedy sleeve for it, but I think finding a new/used spindle would be easieryou could just have it repaired. would be nothing for a decent machine shop to take care of.
less than a NEW spindle, thats for sure.
thats easy. they build it up with weld, and machine it back to spec. VERY easy.I dont think wearing down the bearing surface for your wheel bearings counts as breaking anything inside the axle for this time around, haha.
How would you plan on repairing the wheel bearing surface of the spindle? Its machined to a diameter for the inside of the bearing/race. If its scored, you could only make it smaller by machining/grinding/polishing it down smaller, and since he said its already too small causing a wheel wobble... I guess you could machine it and then make a custom sleeve like a speedy sleeve for it, but I think finding a new/used spindle would be easier
He wants a new spindle because the wheel bearing area is scored from what I understand. The point is that after he gets a new spindle to solve that problem, it needs to be machined as shown so that it will work with the birf kit he has.
I would try and find used ones myself though, and just have those machined to work. I dont see why it would make a big difference other than being clean or not since the brass bushing on the inside of the spindle is changed to a different one anyway (at least I think it is). So, as long as the wheel bearing surface is good on the outside of the spindle, the threads are good for the wheel bearing nuts you should be ok since you dont re-use the Toyota brass bushing (right?). There are no other "wear" surfaces on the spindles, so new or used shouldnt matter too much IMO.
Then again, what do I know. I run 30 spline Longfields :fawkdancesmiley:
~T.J.