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20R to 22RE conversion

rover18

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
95
Location
Edgewood, WA
My brother and I are in the process of converting his 1980 Toyota 20R to 22RE. He got the engine from a 1984 toyota celica. The guy was trying to make it a drift car but had some issues. 1) wouldn't rev over 2500 rpm. 2) didn't have enough power for him. He put dual valve springs and an adjustable cam gear in it from LCE.

Now we have the engine in the truck, and as far as we know all wired up. The truck starts and idles fine, and when you rev it up real quick its fine too. But when you start to rev it up slow or try and hold it at a steady rpm, the engine starts to stutter and shake.

We put an E2000 electric fuel pump in.

Please help us!
 
Have you checked _________?

Hard to tell just from what you described. Check your fuel and the carb. Sometimes a carb that has been sitting will not meeter fuel at a steady rpm, but when you romp on it, the accelerator pump makes up for the lack of steady fuel from the metering block.
Just guessing here... what else did this guy do to the engine? There would be no reason to put in duel valve springs in a stock head with a stock cam... They do not get into duel valve springs until you hit stage 2 at least. He may have places some parts that do not work with the combination. Big cam in a stock head with stock compression.
Just something you may want to check out. Check your wires and your plugs to just to be on the safe side. We have run into a set of wires that would short out under light load. Same thing with a cap and rotor. While they usually only go hay wire when it is moist out side.

=-D
 
Well we got I it figured out. It was the vacuum advance valve on the distributor. However, we just plugged the vacuum advance for now. So it doesn't start to stutter until about 4500-5000 rpms.

And to answer the question about what else he did: he put a bigger cam in, but we put the stock back in. Once we got it running better we put the bigger cam back in.
 
even with advance disconected, you shuld be able to get it to run smooth to redline with static timing. sounds like you are on the right track tho.
verify correct timing, wiring etc.
 
I'm pretty sure the main thing is getting the cam gear dialed in with the distributor. It's super time consuming and tedius. What does a 22re redline at?
 
he said 20r to 22re




fyi the 22re is a f.i. motor, no carb

We did get that, but there are a lot of people who plan on running after market EFI and when they do the swap, they run a carb at first. Hell, we ran a stage 4 EFI off a carb for 2 years before picking up the injection unit. We were just asking for more information... Heck if we know what they are doing... We will go hide now....:booo:
 
Wasnt trying to be an ass, just stating what I thought was obvious. I enjoy all the diff. Ideas you have with the set ups of your rigs.
 
We did get that, but there are a lot of people who plan on running after market EFI and when they do the swap:

Who runs an aftermarket fuelie setup on a 22re?

Ive never seen one.

The E2000 pump is a extremely popular pump to use with the 22re.

That pump would bow the gaskets and seat clean out of a carb.
 
Who runs an aftermarket fuelie setup on a 22re?

Ive never seen one.

The E2000 pump is a extremely popular pump to use with the 22re.

That pump would bow the gaskets and seat clean out of a carb.


SDS and megasquirt come to mind for the geniuses that want to spend 5 G's on a R series that puts out less power than a stock cheap RZ swap... :haha: Super uncommon though.
 
I have heard of a couple guys play with the megasquirt setup and I have done allot of reading on it. I think for somebody who wants a fully tweekable system thats the way to go. Also if you research some of the ricer forums you will find more use of that module there.

But I think a simple stock platform is the way to go.
 
Who runs an aftermarket fuelie setup on a 22re?

Ive never seen one.

The E2000 pump is a extremely popular pump to use with the 22re.

That pump would bow the gaskets and seat clean out of a carb.

We ran part number Part# 1061100 from LC Engineering on our stage 4 EFI stroker engine. With a snorkel and a hand made air box the set up worked awesome. Plug n play injection and it never let us down for the 20,000 miles we put on the truck.
It worked a lot better than the factory EFI and it did not care what was happening. Of course we did not care about fuel economy. We just wanted power while still using pump gas.
We had the 45mm boars and it would scream to 7k before it started floating valves. We were told it would have dynoed 198 hp. We gave up on it and crammed in a 3.4... Then scrapped the project.
 
We ran part number Part# 1061100 from LC Engineering on our stage 4 EFI stroker engine. With a snorkel and a hand made air box the set up worked awesome. Plug n play injection and it never let us down for the 20,000 miles we put on the truck.
It worked a lot better than the factory EFI and it did not care what was happening. Of course we did not care about fuel economy. We just wanted power while still using pump gas.
We had the 45mm boars and it would scream to 7k before it started floating valves. We were told it would have dynoed 198 hp. We gave up on it and crammed in a 3.4... Then scrapped the project.

That's pretty cool, but no where close to being in the budget. :haha:
 
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