22r head replacment

[83yota1]

Im swapping a new head onto my 83 22r. Any tips or info on this? It seems pretty straight forward, just never done one before on this truck.

Whats a good head/intake/exhaust gasket kit to buy?
What about new head bolts?
Where to get em?

Anything im missing? Thanks guys.

Brent

 

[mthompson223]

Engnbldr.com peddles some good parts that I haven't had any problems with. You also can't go wrong with a genuine Toyota OEM head gasket set. They're not that expensive for the peace of mind you get.

I wouldn't worry about the headbolts. Replacing headbolts on a 22R is a silly myth. The only get torqued to 58 ft.lbs. and the FSM doesn't call for replacement of them. Just be sure your headbolts are all in good condition and that both sides of the threads are clean. Sometimes a headbolt or two on the exhaust side of the block will get badly eroded. Replace any headbolts that are damaged.

Also, if you're just replacing a headgasket then I'm assuming you have a blown one. Get the head checked for flatness or just get it shaved if you want your repair to last a long time.

 

[83yota1]

No the head gasket is fine. I just have a stuck valve or something (35 psi in the #1 cylinder). I have a rebuilt head Im just gonna swap on so I don't have to mess with the old one.

Thansk for the tips.

Brent

 

[Bunk1]

There is a bolt at the front of the head(under the distributor gear) that fawks with alot of people. When ya take the distributor out get a couple shop towels and soak up the oil bath the gear sits in. Then you will see the bolt head.

ALSO!!!!!!! Retorque your head at 500 miles. seriously.

 

[trx4xman]

Find a 20r head and bump compression up to 10ish:1

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Retorque your head at 500 miles. seriously.

Ive never heard this before... Hmm. Its been about 15000 since I rebuilt my engine, wonder if its worth doing now, lol

~T.J.

 

[kyle1]

Find a 20r head and bump compression up to 10ish:1

i really wish people would stop spreading down that hearsay BS around...a 20R head doesn't crank up your compression.

here's my advise for doing this job. clean, clean clean! you want the deck of the block and the underside of the head as clean as you can get. i like using a rigid blade scraper(sears sells them for about $10, looks like a long handled chisel) as it won't distort like a razor blade scraper and cut chunks out of the head. once all the gasket gunk is off, i use brake cleaner and a non abrasive scotchbrite pad to make sure it's all gone. if the head looks iffy at all, get it resurfaced, just enough to clean it up.

don't ever use a felpro head gasket on these engines, you'll be sorry. i only use the graphite gaskets with a steel plate on the head side -- engnbldr, toyota, and napa sell them. i wouldn't hesitate to use felpro's other gaskets, though.

i don't bother retorquing after running it, the only head gasket i've ever lost on one of these engines was from having a warped head that should have been decked. i usually go in a few steps on the head bolts, 20lbs, 40, 45, 50, then final torque. i go inside and have lunch or something, let it all settle and then hit all the bolts with the final torque setting. if none of them move you're good to go, otherwise let it sit a little while longer and do it again.

 

[Bunk1]

Ive never heard this before... Hmm. Its been about 15000 since I rebuilt my engine, wonder if its worth doing now, lol

~T.J.

Make sure you take a nice healthy poop before you check em, Cause you will sh!t at how loose they are. Mine were maybee 20 ft lbs when i checked em at 500 miles.

 

[kyle1]

i call BS on that one, unless your torque wrench is a piece of **** or you used a junk gasket.

 

[mthompson223]

i call BS on that one, unless your torque wrench is a piece of **** or you used a junk gasket.

That's a negatron, sir. Since the days of asbestos gaskets are long gone, gasket creep has been a slight issue on non-asbestos composite gaskets. The issue mainly stems from vehicles that had head gaskets designed back when asbestos gaskets were used. Since asbestos was the devil, torque specs should've been revised but nobody ever bothered to do this. The torquing method you suggested was how I deal with gasket creep. I clamp it to 58 lb.ft. in 3 steps and take a break before I do the final torque. If you torque straight to 58 lb.ft. with a non-asbestos composite head gasket, you absolutely will notice a drop in head bolt torque if you come back and check later, even with Toyota OEM gaskets.

 

[Bunk1]

i call BS on that one, unless your torque wrench is a piece of **** or you used a junk gasket.

Suffer the wrath of your wisdom. Ive been around a bit young pup.

 

[ICEHAWK]

I will get the name of the kit i have and it is toyoa replacement kit. do not reuse the headbolts replace them. Toyota does not say to reuse them and that is why you have to retorque them. they are cheap and do not go cheap. I see it all the time and I have done it my self. and paid in the long run.doit right the first time. I would dothetiming chain to. this is my 2 cents