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Hardline Crawlers - Rock Bouncer Builds, Tech & Off-Road Trail Talk

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Bob the bed?

  • Yes

    Votes: 106 84.1%
  • Maybe

    Votes: 6 4.8%
  • No

    Votes: 14 11.1%

  • Total voters
    126
come on charlie........ leave the truck alone till it blows up and just wheel it. :mad:

oh and go with a TH350. It's already trailered so you don't need an overdrive. Jason has some in his shop too. As far as flashing the ECU there is a guy over in eastern wa, that will do it for a 150. He will also thin out you harness for another 100 or so, if you don't want to do it. Maverick26 posted a link on here a while back when Jason was looking for someone to flash his ECU.

I never said I was gonna pull the 4 banger yet did I?:fawkdancesmiley:

It's going to take me a while to save up enough to get all the adapters and the tranny I need. I have the 4.3 already so I don't need to worry about that. Just need to start collecting parts for the next stage!
 
lets just tune that 22r up a bit. I think it was running on 3 cylinders. If you need a hand just shoot me a call or bring it down. Then you can run it for another year or so while ya gather up parts. I think the stauns inner beadlocks would be the easiest fix to those wheels. :beer:

edit: and I have a trans for ya if you want it (for the cause)
 
I broke one of the "worse" tires down last night and the Iroks seem to have held up pretty well!

I wish these tires were as hard to pop a bead as they are to dimount from the wheel! Still can't get the tire all the way off. Hopefully this weekend will bring some better luck breaking them down.

Edit: I think plans are for me to weld some kind of safety bead on the rims. I can't afford Stauns or any other inner locks right now, so I need to try and salvage the rims I have. FAWK I hate reverse center rims...:puke:
 
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Ahhhh you have reverse center wheels... **** beadlocking those wheels. The inner bead on them is what used to be the outer and it is smaller than the standard inner. I'd dump those wheels and do some DIY beadlocks and IFS hubs on standard wheels.

Reversed center wheels are a headache from hell as you've found out.
 
Are you trying to pull the tire off from the beadlock lip? Or from the inside lip? Reason I ask is on a reverse-center rim, the tire comes off much easier from what used to be the original outside lip...
 
Are you trying to pull the tire off from the beadlock lip? Or from the inside lip? Reason I ask is on a reverse-center rim, the tire comes off much easier from what used to be the original outside lip...


Good luck with reversed center beadlocks... You still have to get one bead over the large side of the wheel one way or another. :eeek:
 
Good luck with reversed center beadlocks... You still have to get one bead over the large side of the wheel one way or another. :eeek:

Yup....They're a *****....I agree completely that reverse-centered wheels should not be beadlocked...
 
Yeah I'm kicking myself in the ass for going with them. They were a fawk load of cash too... Won't be able to get new wheels for a while(have to save up for them).... Hopefully I can figure something out on these fawkers soon. Once I get new rims I can go ahead and just order a new inner ring for my beadlocks..:mad:
 
Looks like my best option to fixing my bead problem is to get new rims..:mad: Wish I wouldn't have gone the "easy" route for the stance I wanted.

Plans are going to be getting IFS hubs, and converting to a vented rotor and different calipers. I've been doing quite a bit of research on this so hopefully it wont be too big of a pain in the ass.

Something like this in the front:
attachment.php

attachment.php


Once I get all the parts to do that I will do my 5th stud at the same time.

Probably going to be going with a steel wheel from 4WP in the 17"x8"-9" form with a 3.5" or 4" backspace. Should keep me within an inch or two of my current width. Then I'm only left with buying a new set of inners for my current beadlocks. Thank god I went with a DIY!:cheer:

Hopefully I can get some work done to it this week... Gotta get another project out of the garage first.:mad:
 
Little side track here but why not try glueing the tires inner bead on?

I have had great luck with superglue myself and I know Jantz uses some 3M adhesive with good reviews.

And how did you get them tires on those wheels to begin with? I can't imagine getting them off. Reverse wheels bring the suck.

Where did you find the pic of the hat rotor? What are the specs on said rotor?:corn:
 
Little side track here but why not try glueing the tires inner bead on?

I have had great luck with superglue myself and I know Jantz uses some 3M adhesive with good reviews.

And how did you get them tires on those wheels to begin with? I can't imagine getting them off. Reverse wheels bring the suck.

Where did you find the pic of the hat rotor? What are the specs on said rotor?:corn:
Here is the post on Pirate (where I got the pictures off of. Looks like a IFS hub, Taco rotor and IFS caliper). Most likely the setup I will run. Takes some grinding(as you can see) to clean the inner rotor around the hub.

As far as sealing/gluing the bead. Already did that. Used a D.A.P. product that was for roofind sealing. Worked great for a while but failed miserably last weekend. Now for a more permanent fix. I had to have the tires mounted by a machine. Looks like thats my only option.
 
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If you have longs there is no reason to go with the taco rotors. They are the same diameter as typical ifs rotors which are 1/2" smaller od than solid axle venter rotors. I'd just grab some later '40/60/62/ early 80 vented rotors and put them on in the normal fashion and enjoy your better brakes.


The "glue" you used is hard and lost its stickiness. For now I'd just grab some bead sealant from a local CAT dealer or a tube of windshield urethane and slap it on the inner bead.
 
If you have longs there is no reason to go with the taco rotors. They are the same diameter as typical ifs rotors which are 1/2" smaller od than solid axle venter rotors. I'd just grab some later '40/60/62/ early 80 vented rotors and put them on in the normal fashion and enjoy your better brakes.

The "glue" you used is hard and lost its stickiness. For now I'd just grab some bead sealant from a local CAT dealer or a tube of windshield urethane and slap it on the inner bead.

What all does that entail? Just swapping the rotors over and what calipers does it use? I need to upgrade my brakes extremely bad and throw a set of discs in the rear.. Possible a bigger MC
 
What all does that entail? Just swapping the rotors over and what calipers does it use? I need to upgrade my brakes extremely bad and throw a set of discs in the rear.. Possible a bigger MC

A pair of IFS calipers ( I recommend new as used toy calipers are usually garbage) and new rotors form the listed above rigs, 1980 and newer fj40 fj60 fj62.

Trail gear is probably the cheapest on rotors.
 
Yup just a set of ifs calipers. I'd swap in V6 calipers and a larger master. I like to use a 1" master off of 3rd gen trucks with matching booster. You'll have to swap in a 80's supra booster unless you want to rework the steering shaft at the firewall. I've always had great luck with stock large drums out back with the upgraded front parts.
 
i used a 4 runner dual diaphram booster on my 1st gen. all i did was build a space on the back of it to clear the steering shaft. i then had to extend the shaft on the brake booster the same about as how big my spacer is. worked amazing if you got more question hit me up. i even think that there was somoone on pirate that did the exact same thing its in the bible i believe.
All in all took about 2 hours to make work and all of my stock lines went right into it no problem

fj 80 rotors with v6 calipers are the way to go. i think i read that the late modle v6 four runners had the biggest calipers. 4 big pistons
 
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i used a 4 runner dual diaphram booster on my 1st gen. all i did was build a space on the back of it to clear the steering shaft. i then had to extend the shaft on the brake booster the same about as how big my spacer is. worked amazing if you got more question hit me up. i even think that there was somoone on pirate that did the exact same thing its in the bible i believe.
All in all took about 2 hours to make work and all of my stock lines went right into it no problem

fj 80 rotors with v6 calipers are the way to go. i think i read that the late modle v6 four runners had the biggest calipers. 4 big pistons


Sure a spacer can be made easy enough. I just rebuilt my steering shaft using 3rd gen parts. I didn't worry about clearing the clutch master either due to the auto swap. :D


Any year V6 or 92ish+ 4 cylinder truck will have the large calipers.
 
Charlie, find someone who can get you a discount at a local auto parts store. I get one at napa through my work. We just put fj40 rotors and v6 calipers on jeremys truck and it was a reasonable price. In my opinion stick with some parts that are tge simplest. I still run 4cly non vented rotors and calipers, with samurai masters on both my rigs and brakes work great. I would upgrade later when it comes to replacing but only with easy non order parts. Just gotta make sure the master push rod is adjusted right, most dont do this and think they need some big master. Now if I was gonna go fast it would be another story.
 
fj 80 rotors are the way to go.

I dont think most of the fj80s will fit. Its only a year or two.

The fj40 fj60 and fj62 will work thru all years.

The fj80 rotor will have a 6 holes and bolts on.

The rotors charlie needs have 8 holes (6 holes and two threaded).
 
I'll just get myself a set of FJ40/60/62 rotors and run them... I'm not too worried about it. I know with that V6 and auto I will drive right through my current brakes... I'll do a bigger MC, some better rotors and calipers and then work on some rear discs. Thanks for all the input guys
 
The fj80 rotor will have a 6 holes and bolts on.

The rotors charlie needs have 8 holes (6 holes and two threaded).


The rotors he needs should have 6 holes to bolt onto the hub. Remember he is going IFS hubs so they don't have the studs going through them.
 
The rotors he needs should have 6 holes to bolt onto the hub. Remember he is going IFS hubs so they don't have the studs going through them.

if going to an IFS hub. He was looking at that route to get a lesser offset new wheel out to the same width as the old rims.

I think charlie is going to keep his old rims and just upgrade the rotors and calipers. In that case he will need the 8 hole ones.

You are correct tho if he was using the ifs hubs then the fj80 ones will work.
 
if going to an IFS hub. He was looking at that route to get a lesser offset new wheel out to the same width as the old rims.

I think charlie is going to keep his old rims and just upgrade the rotors and calipers. In that case he will need the 8 hole ones.

You are correct tho if he was using the ifs hubs then the fj80 ones will work.

Brad's right. I plan on keeping the wheels I have for now. He is going to fix em up for me! Without needing the extra stance now, I will just do a standard brake upgrade.
 
Here is some of the carnage that I did to the tires New Years day...

IMG00029-20110114-1544.jpg


I'm trying to figure out how fawked I really am? Depending on how bad(deep) its ripped I might be able to use that bead on the beadlock side and salvage these tires.. If not, I'll be in the market for a 36x13.5x17 Bias Irok....:mad::mad::mad:

I'm going to try and find somewhere local that has a tire machine and dismount the tire so I can get a better look.
 
Ended up taking this tire/wheel to a mechanic here in Eatonville who has a tire machine... Couldn't even get it off with that! Machine couldn't do that big of a tire...:mad:

BUT they had a lot better tools than I do at home and were able to get the tire off..

Here are a few more pics of the tire. I think that I can get the bead re-glued to the tire... and then have the glued side on the bead locked side...

IMG00034-20110114-1718.jpg


IMG00033-20110114-1718.jpg


IMG00030-20110114-1718.jpg


DAMN YOU REVERSE CENTER RIMS!!!

IMG00035-20110114-1719.jpg


Sorry for the ****ty pics.. Cell phone.
 
Dayum Charlie I was gonna ask if you wanted to go wheelin the weekend after next but you probably dont wanna play with us anymore now :booo: I have that set of 38.5s you can borrow them if you want to go up before you get the wheels all figured out :awesomework:
 
Dayum Charlie I was gonna ask if you wanted to go wheelin the weekend after next but you probably dont wanna play with us anymore now :booo: I have that set of 38.5s you can borrow them if you want to go up before you get the wheels all figured out :awesomework:

I think That I will be able to re-use this tire.. Hopefully. I'm going to have Chop work his magic on the rims then go from there. Hopefully I wont be down too long...
 
Well a little bad news came my way today. I took my wheel/tire to Jon(Joop) to try and get it remounted... We couldn't get the tire over the rim(damn reversed center) and damaged the other bead as well.... So I have one tire that is ****...

In a bit of a dilema now. I have two choices...

1. Buy a new Irok and new set of rims(different BS and non reversed) as well as a new inner beadlock rings....

Irok 36x13.5x17 - 380 (+S/H)
Wheels 17x8/4" BS- 380 (+S/H)
Inner Lock - 150 (+S/H)
Spacers - 75
Wide Rear - 1-200
Total = 1135

That is if I can get the other tires off without ruining(sp) them too... As well as still only have 36" tires... Also going to run into clearance issues having the wheels/tires that close in.... Id have to run spacers in the front and get a wider rear for the truck.

2. Buy new tires and wheels.. I want to go bigger anyways....

PB Rockers 39x16.5x16.5 - 1550
Hummer H1 Beadlock - 250ish
PVC for double locks - 160
Centers for (6x5.5) - 260

Total... = 2220
With shipping on everything = 2500ish

This is for better wheels/tires and double beadlocks


Either option is going to take me FOREVER to save up for... I'll figure something out sooner or later. Either way the truck is sidelined for a while.

All prices are estimates so don't dog me on that!
 
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