Aluminum Car Hauler:Worth the money?

[JEEPKEVIN]

Recently purchased a Class A gas motorhome, gonna toy buggy and toys. So I'm in the market for a bumper pull car hauler and have some limitations.

Motorhome only has so much balls, need to keep what I tow light.

I will address the rear frame strength, pretty good to start but I will add a couple gussets and X brace to make darn sure.

So one option is just a common short steel 16' car hauler with some decent axles, or spend some more and get an aluminum trailer so save some weight. By just comparing weights list on mfg websites, looks like an aluminum trailer would save me 25% or more in weight. That could be 500lbs. Sure not gonna hurt.

So are the aluminum car haulers holding up? I read stress cracks and all the negatives on line but people only ever bitch on line. I'm sure there are tons of happy peeps out there too.

Would you go aluminum or would you be scared?

Thanks!!

 

[MuddyBuddy]

I'd love an aluminum trailer for less weight and no rust. Prices are 3 times that of a similar steel trailer so it's a tough call. What about an open center steel hauler? Save some weight there. I also like steel because I can weld it and/or modify it later. Without aluminum welding capabilities I'm limited as far as modifications.

 

[RustyC]

What if you used an open center steel trailer and spent the difference on lightening up the vehicle being towed? Alum wheels, etc.

 

[JEEPKEVIN]

Open center steel trailer would be a good compromise. Didn't think about that.

I use my google skills to see what I can find out about them.

Thanks!!

 

[muddinmetal]

Open center trailers rock when it come to vehicle repairs, especially if you are ever in the pits at the drag strip.


But they do suck for hauling random / oddly shaped farm equipment

 

[tonybolton]

Open center trailers rock when it come to vehicle repairs, especially if you are ever in the pits at the drag strip.

But they do suck for hauling random / oddly shaped farm equipment

That's what I had in my open track days and was towing it with 5.7 GMC2500.....it did great. I had the trailer built specific for low cars so it had a 5ft dovetail with longer fold up ramps.

The open center was great for pit work like you said and you could work on stuff with the suspension loaded or unloaded.

I sold it to my cousin who started using it for house remodeling and had a cover plate built for the center section that comes off in 4 different pieces. Pretty versatile.

 

[TBItoy]

What if you used an open center steel trailer and spent the difference on lightening up the vehicle being towed? Alum wheels, etc.

x2

no idea what kind of rig the OP has, but you could put aluminum links/wheels/light weight brakes, maybe even build a bling'd out light weight axle on a rig for the difference in cost from a regular light weigh steel car hauler vs an aluminum job

 

[JEEPKEVIN]

We have a few different things that we would like to tow. Most often it is two RZR's. We know that's not really an issue regardless of trailer. We also have a 4 door JK on 37"s. Prefer to trailer vs tow in case we break something. Nearing completion on a Goatbuilt subframe buggy. Typically LS, atlas, tons, Racelines, 43" SX. Just weighed it for springs and it's at 3600lbs. Still needs driveshafts, exhaust, steering column, skins, fluids. Thinking between 4000lbs and 4200lbs.

I'm dreaming of a 24' aluminum open trailer, twin 7k torsion axles spread apart, haul buggy and rzr. But I'm still reading and learning to make the best decision.

I'm aloud to dream, just have to wake up at some point and be realistic. You only live once, just don'y want to die too soon from dumb choices.

 

[TacomaJD]

If you go open centered steel trailer, be sure it has smooth plated tracks for where the tires goes instead of being like some of them completely without plating and looks like open ladder rungs where the tires go. This would be a problem if trying to load up a trashed RZR or Jeep with say a wheel that broke completely off and is dragging axle/suspension, etc.

 

[smbroady82]

the alum. trailers are stupid expensive.. unless I was towing a few times a month for several years I wouldn't do it (hard to justify spending that kind of money on a trailer)

my vote would be open center trailer like everyone mentioned

 

[sledneck]

If memory serves some of the trailer manufacturers only claim a 10% weight difference between steel vs aluminum. You need to use more bracing for aluminum and if something breaks it's a pain in the ass to fix unless your setup to weld alum.

 

[Travis]

I'm dreaming of a 24' aluminum open trailer, twin 7k torsion axles spread apart, haul buggy and rzr. But I'm still reading and learning to make the best decision.

I bought that exact trailer a few months ago from a guy in GA. 2009 featherlite 24€™ aluminum open trailer, 7000lbs axles, air dam, winch, and hadn€™t been towed much. And got a very good deal on it. So deals are out there.

One thing to keep in mind, the featherlite open trailers are not as wide as a typical steel trailer. For some reason, they are around 79" wide, instead of 82" between fenders. And they have a vertical piece around perimeter of deck. So if you are full width, it won't fit. I made some tire runners to make trailer work for me. I may have looked for a different manufacturer had I known before I purchased.


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[lt99ls1]

Open center trailers rock when it come to vehicle repairs, especially if you are ever in the pits at the drag strip.


But they do suck for hauling random / oddly shaped farm equipment

I had some 3/4" pressure treated plywood that I put down in the center when I had to haul odd stuff on my old trailer.