So I bough a 1990 cherokee to drive around HOPING it actually snows like they say its going to.. I drove it to the car wash and clean the interior. Then I drove it home and parked it. A few hours later went to drive it to the gym and it would not start.. Its turns strong just wont even come close to firing. I check the fuel rail and smell gas so theres fuel getting to the system. Liek I said it was perfectly fine before this happened.. Let me know of some ideas guys.
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Another cherokee problem
- Thread starter Dubshot
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KarlVP
Love that TOYOTA
Crankshaft position sensor was a big problem in those rigs. But usually when it goes bad, the rig won't even turn over. It's worth a try.
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
Really? Never ran into one that wouldn't crank for that. They wouldn't crank when the neutral safety switch was knocked out of adjustment but never for the CPS being bad.
The CPS is towards the top of the bellhousing. Pretty simple to get to, it has a single bolt holding it on if I remember right. It's been a few years.
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
Ahhhh the cherokee no start thread. I think i have started a few.... anyways a crank position sensor is great start, and hopefully the problem. A few things, it can get just unplugged.. seen it happen but also sometimes the wire can get caught up against the body and eventually, like mine did, become worthless. I might have an extra one laying around.....if need be.
Where would the crank p-sensor be found? It cranks over great just has no sign of sparking so I am going to get a second set of has to make sure I even have spark. But I woul like to check all ideas personally.. Do I pull it and have it checked out what?
WHITE TRASH1
fruit stripe
The CPS is towards the top of the bellhousing. Pretty simple to get to, it has a single bolt holding it on if I remember right. It's been a few years.
It's on the passenger top if I remember right.
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Top driver's side of the bellhousing, held by 2 bolts (which are special so don't lose them...best and easiest way to test is with a scope, but a mutimeter can be used...the plug is on top of the rear of the intake....sometimes the wiring can get chaffed by the body if not routed correctly (should be a little 'trough' on the back of the head for the wiring to be routed away from the exh, and protected from the body), or can melt on the rear tube of the exhaust...
Yes, driver's side upper bellhousing, approximately 10:00 o'clock looking at it from the rear of the rig. It's not exactly easy to get to though. Two bolts hold it on, they are 11mm.
Unless you're extremely flexible and have tiny hands, I suggest unbolting the crossmember and lowering it down and using a couple of ratchet extensions and a wobble joint to get to the bolts. I suppose it can be done without doing this if you are a masochist with a stubborn streak, but it's far easier and gives a lot more room to get to the bolts if you lower the rear of the motor down as far as you can get it.
I would suggest unplugging the connector first though, and checking the connections for corrosion and such and re-plugging. The connector runs up from the bellhousing to the top of the intake manifold near the firewall.
Unless you're extremely flexible and have tiny hands, I suggest unbolting the crossmember and lowering it down and using a couple of ratchet extensions and a wobble joint to get to the bolts. I suppose it can be done without doing this if you are a masochist with a stubborn streak, but it's far easier and gives a lot more room to get to the bolts if you lower the rear of the motor down as far as you can get it.
I would suggest unplugging the connector first though, and checking the connections for corrosion and such and re-plugging. The connector runs up from the bellhousing to the top of the intake manifold near the firewall.
This thing has some sort of chrysler alarm system, The guy said there was a trick but I forgot what he said. I have the little key code thing that goes with has a 1 and a 2 on it.. I dont seem to have any spark as I just cant seem to get it to arc with the coil wire or by pulling a plug and trying to ground it.. I am engine retarded when it comes to these things..
GaryTJ
Well-Known Member
If the alarm was the problem, it would start, flare up, then die. and most times (if not the actual PCM) the lights would be flashing too.
If you have a tach, look at it when cranking. If it shows no movement, replace the crank position sensor.
If you have a tach, look at it when cranking. If it shows no movement, replace the crank position sensor.
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
You're not supposed to ground the plug wire, but hold it approximately 1/4" away from a ground....
Sounds like you best take it to someone reputable in your area then...:awesomework:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
I'm just sayin' if you don't know what yer doin', you might be money ahead to pay to have it diagnosed first....:; I'm not saying it's not the CKP sensor....but there are so many possibilities that can give you the same symptom....
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
Yeah cuz my buddy has a cherocrap that wont run either (no spark) so I showed him this and he replaced the crank sensor and it still dont run.
So yeah that dont always work.:beer:
Flat-Bed_3rd_Gen
Well-Known Member
you can remove the sensor and ohm the to pins it should be between 125-275 ohms. if it tests ok remove the pcm connector and test the harness for a short to ground/power/together, you can also test the harness for opens.
the two most common failures on those two engines is the cps and the ignition coil
for testing the coil these are the specs
The Primary Winding resistance should be 1.13 - 1.23 ohms at 24
the two most common failures on those two engines is the cps and the ignition coil
for testing the coil these are the specs
The Primary Winding resistance should be 1.13 - 1.23 ohms at 24
All you messed with was cleaning out the interior? Vacuuming and such? When I read it the first time I though you sprayed under the hood to clean off the engine. But if all you did was clean the inside, my bet is on the alarm. It is NOT true that the Jeep would start, then die. All alarms are different and I have had many problems with the stock chrysler ones. The CPS is a common cause of no start issues in cherokees but I dont think its your issue here. I have also never seen the CPS cause changes in the RPMs while cranking.
Take off the bottom section of the dash and look around under there. Check for loose plugs and wires. Have you checked your fuses yet? Are you getting a normal buzzing, stereo turning on, and other stuff when you turn the key to ACC? It could also be the switch at the end of the steering column on the top passenger side.
Take off the bottom section of the dash and look around under there. Check for loose plugs and wires. Have you checked your fuses yet? Are you getting a normal buzzing, stereo turning on, and other stuff when you turn the key to ACC? It could also be the switch at the end of the steering column on the top passenger side.
Flat-Bed_3rd_Gen
Well-Known Member
yes the older Chrysler alarms will start and die that aftermarket ones will not i know this for a fact... but if that is the case try unlocking the drivers door and the hatch those are the only two disarm switches. this will only work for factory alarms
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