dove'd85
Well-Known Member
if i put a shackle on it won't it still wrap at the frame?
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
anti wrap bar for my yota
- Thread starter dove'd85
- Start date
if i put a shackle on it won't it still wrap at the frame?
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
No, the force at the shackle will be a verticle force focused on the top of the shackle. The shackle setup is very common. I can snap some pictures of mine if youd like.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
Pook
Well-Known Member
I'll have the camera out in the shop later tonight I'll get some pics.
Pook
Well-Known Member
heres one http://www.trail-gear.com/anti-wrap.html
I personally don't like the slip in out style the fatigue and snap off. just weld solid and add a shackle at the frame end.
I personally don't like the slip in out style the fatigue and snap off. just weld solid and add a shackle at the frame end.
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
thanks man. hey i wheeled with your buddies sunday a reiter. mark M and stealth runner. i love the formula toy:awesomework: thanks in advance for the pics
james
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Here's mine...
6" seperation at the axle, 32" in length (short). A Johnny Joint at the end, bushings at the axle. I used CJ spring bushings and they did not hold up. It's getting YJ spring bushings now. The shackle connects to the x-member with a YJ spring bushing.
It works pretty well. It pretty much eliminates torque lean and squat. However, I think it's too short because it likes to hop a little. I'd go *at least* 36" long.
The speed holes are essential for side wind performance :flipoff:
6" seperation at the axle, 32" in length (short). A Johnny Joint at the end, bushings at the axle. I used CJ spring bushings and they did not hold up. It's getting YJ spring bushings now. The shackle connects to the x-member with a YJ spring bushing.
It works pretty well. It pretty much eliminates torque lean and squat. However, I think it's too short because it likes to hop a little. I'd go *at least* 36" long.
The speed holes are essential for side wind performance :flipoff:
Pook
Well-Known Member
got back from work late, I'll post pics tomorrow.
rickibrat2
Well-Known Member
here is a link with some information on them i am installing the trail gear one today on my yota
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544411
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544411
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
Here's mine...
6" seperation at the axle, 32" in length (short). A Johnny Joint at the end, bushings at the axle. I used CJ spring bushings and they did not hold up. It's getting YJ spring bushings now. The shackle connects to the x-member with a YJ spring bushing.
It works pretty well. It pretty much eliminates torque lean and squat. However, I think it's too short because it likes to hop a little. I'd go *at least* 36" long.
The speed holes are essential for side wind performance :flipoff:
thanks for the pics... do you have a shackle not only in the front but the rear upper mount?
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
great link! does it make a differance if i mount the shackle up or down?
colemancooler
Member
pretty much the same thing evryone else has shown you but here is mine
I used the stock crossmember but aded a piece of 1/8" steel to bolth sides to sandwich it together after seeing people on the net damage their crossmember doing this, so far is working great
I used the stock crossmember but aded a piece of 1/8" steel to bolth sides to sandwich it together after seeing people on the net damage their crossmember doing this, so far is working great
crash2
-Oh no I picked a side-
Either way--depends on the room you have. As long as the shackle is verticle it doesn't matter...
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I guess that's what you could call it. I did it to allow more adustability.
I wouldn't do it again; it was extra work, it weakens the unit against dragging on rocks, and it isn't needed.
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
Ayup.
Lincolnlock
Well-Known Member
It needs to be solid mounted on the bottom with traction arm on the top of the shackle. Otherwise it will pull the springs into a bind when you hammer down. Also set up the shackle with the traction arm foward of the solid mount (just a little) so that the shackel is already where it would end up under a load. This makes a HUGE difference.
CrustyJeep
Well-Known Member
I do believe I see what you're getting at, and you may just be on to something...
Grommit327
Well-Known Member
Well I've got bushings and a heim w/ spacers, tube adapter and jam nut on the way. Now I just need to get some 1.5 .250 dom and I'm set
Pook
Well-Known Member
why? explain this pulling the springs into a bind idea.
I have been building mine with the shackle above for a few years now on a bunch of different rigs. I always set the shackle at the same angle as the trucks spring shackles. I have no issues with any bindage and the truck flex's just as good with or with out the traction bar.
It moves in a simlar arc as the springs do when drooping compressing etc.
I do however try and line up the traction bar frame end bolt with the spring pack bolts.
rickibrat2
Well-Known Member
mine is mounts will be above the rear end tubng to keep it out of the way of rocks and other problems i keep fining,
it will go forward to a mount under the transmission mount the shackle will be what ever size i need to keep the bar level with the frame of the truck is what i was told i am using the bigger johnny joints on mine Vs the hemi joints to help control side ways twist a little better
it will go forward to a mount under the transmission mount the shackle will be what ever size i need to keep the bar level with the frame of the truck is what i was told i am using the bigger johnny joints on mine Vs the hemi joints to help control side ways twist a little better
