antifreeze/water evporation

[231toyota]

ok so i put water in the raidator every cuple days, there are no visible leaks on the ground or else where, so where is it going?? the truck does not blow white smoke as a tale-tale sign of a blown head gasket. could it be a small gasket leak into the cylinder and just evaporating enough not to blow the white smoke? This is really driving me nuts. i have to carry several gallons of water when i go play or drive to work cause it starts over heat
please some one help me with this issue..:awesomework:

 

[slednecks1124]

what kind of vehicle,engine, etc?

My buddys radiator and tranny cooler are connected in his chevy and the coolant ended up getting into his tranny which fawked everything all up....That is what I was told anyways......

 

[Moneypit1]

It's NOT evaporating. Pull the plugs, look for one that's abnormally clean. If so, then that's the cylinder that's burning antifreeze. If all are uniformly dirty, then check the crankcase for oil/water contamination. Pull the dipstick, if it looks like cottage cheese, then that's your problem. If not that, then look REALLY closely at the block, heater hoses, etc. Coolant escaping from a cracked head to the environment will evaporate instantaniously from the super-heated engine. However when the block/head cools, the crack will shrink back shut and hold pressure. However you still likely can find trace evidence of staining where the leak is escaping. None of those, then check the carpet around the passanger footwell for signs of a heater core leak. Also, a lot of heater cores have a drain hole (for this reason) which will spill the leaking antifreeze under the car. Easy way to check is turn the defrosters on high (both temp and fan speed) and see if the windshield fogs up. Keep looking, you'll find the problem. It might be as simple as a loose hose clamp on the lower radiator hose. Or a pin-hole leak in the radiator.

 

[231toyota]

what kind of vehicle,engine, etc?

it,s a 85 toyota 4x4,22re 4cyl.

no water from the heater core carpet floor is dry,and heater works very well, no fogging on the inside..
will check spark plugs just replaced about 2 months ago so should show something if it may be that.
checked crank case the other day oil looks good no white stuff, however was a small bit on the inside of the oil fill cap?
hmm guess i'll look at the block next...
thanks:awesomework:

 

[JOOP]

Look around the water pump. A lot of the time it's a small leak only when the engine is running and then the fan is blowing the water away when your driving. When the system build up pressure it pushes out through the leak. Keep and eye on you oil level if it's high, water is in your pan.

 

[notstock]

Have you checked to see if the exhaust smells like antifreeze when you first start it up? Sounds a bit like a headgasket is starting to go or there is a crack in the head. You can have a shop pressure the cooling system to check for leaks.

 

[Bunk1]

I dare you to torque the headbolts!

 

[231toyota]

I dare you to torque the headbolts!

double dog dare me bunk...:redneck:
on the 22re head bolts under valve cover correct??

Joop im off work sunday i'll start it and let it run and check what you said..
thanks:beer:

like i said before no water on the ground when its sits after running. oil pressure seems good when driving,and at idle its drops down some.
with all your alls help hopefully i can find problem..

 

[dove'd85]

i think the head bolts are in the oil pan:flipoff:

if it were leaking from the water pump or anywere outside of the motor at the rate in which you are claiming it is you would forsure see a leak

something to think about catalydic converters mask oil burning/blown head gaskets to an extent.

i would check your plugs,do a cooling system pressure test and go from there

 

[zukkev]

After running for several minutes, does the system build pressure??? Jebuzz Joopy, who told told you the oil level is just going to get 'high'??? If there's coolant getting in the crankcase , the oil level will get high, but also look like beige babyshit!:haha:If you're adding water every other day---I'd stop driving the truck til you get to the bottom of where the coolant's going!!! Coolant wreak havoc on the engine bearings in no time!!!
Recommendation...Obtain a coolant pressure tester; remove plugs---pressure test the cooling system to 13 lbs; look down the plug holes and see which one fills with coolant! If it doesn't happen cold...then install plugs; depressurize the radiator, but leave the tester on the radiator neck....start the truck and let it run to operating temp/ keep an eye on how quickly it builds pressure using the guage....once up to temp, shut rig off but leave the rad under pressure, remove plugs and watch again!!! You'll find the problem hole...
One other thing...nobody mentioned the possibility of a loose timing chain eating thru the timing cover at the coolant jacket---but if that were the case, the oil would look like beige babyshit as well!!!

 

[231toyota]

After running for several minutes, does the system build pressure???

zukkev it does build pressure, few weeks back the wife and i ran up to elbe hills and made the sunrise trail, truck was stock then..:haha:
antways finished the run and made to the main hull rd. poped hood and removed rad. cap and coolent came out like a gyser dumb... burnt the fauk outta my self..
i"ll run it to build pressure and check plug holes but will try and get a pressure tester too..
thanks

 

[JOOP]

Good idea to invest in a pressure tester:awesomework:

 

[TreeClimber]

Some other things to think about.... You said "it overheats" therefore you must keep adding water. Does it still have the 'overflow' bottle? Your entire problem may be as simple as a stuck thermostat, or an inadequate or inoperative cooling fan. If the engine cannot cool down sufficiently, then the radiator (cap) will allow the excess pressure to vent into the overflow (or in the absence of an overflow) or onto the ground. Therefore, you'll need to keep adding coolant or water every time you check the level.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Stop guessing and just TEST it. I wouldnt waste any time until you use this first.

Here is the unit. You can get one at NAPA or borrow one from a competent mechanic.

http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm

It will tell you quickly and positively if you have a head gasket problem.

 

[Bunk1]

double dog dare me bunk...:redneck:

I double dog dare anyone on here with a 20r 22r 22re to check their head bolt torque. Aint it 58 ft lbs? I cant remember.

 

[dove'd85]

I double dog dare anyone on here with a 20r 22r 22re to check their head bolt torque. Aint it 58 ft lbs? I cant remember.

close enough:;

 

[231toyota]

ok so i went to shucks and rented a raditor pressure tester....calls for 13# pressure, so i pump it up to 13-14# and it should hold at that but it starts to drop. so i pull one plug at a time all look good, except for the #4 hole i put a screw driver in there and came back wet.... ah ha!!! so now is the question is it a head gasget or possibly a crack in the head??

 

[notstock]

Now it is time to remove the head and take it to a machine shop for a pressure test that will reveal any cracks in the head. Have them put a straight edge on it if it tests good. That way you can rule out a warped head at the same time.

 

[231toyota]

Now it is time to remove the head and take it to a machine shop for a pressure test that will reveal any cracks in the head. Have them put a straight edge on it if it tests good. That way you can rule out a warped head at the same time.

thanks notstock looks i will be busy workin on the yoda some more

 

[Bunk1]

How can you pressure test a head when its off the engine? Also, Ive seem some alum cylinder heard suffer from electrolosis and erode the head around the head gasket. Its pretty obvious once you remove the head.

Dont forget about the 12mm bolt thats hidden in the oil bath for the distributor gear.