Anyone Tow with a Class C?

[the_white_shadow]

In the market for a new camping setup. Tired of tent camping on a deflated air mattress) Been contemplating the redneck hauler route. I bout a cheap slide in camper ($300) from 1980 that needs ALOT of work. Just need a trailer to put it on. But as i do more and more research ive been leaning towards a Class C with a big block or V10 and pulling my crawler with a bumper pull trailer. Rig will weigh in the 4500lb range.

What should i keep my eyes out for? How old is too old? Any regrets?

Pros? Cons? What say you Hardline?

Im budgeting around $5-6k for it, which seems pretty doable around these parts (SW TX). Im open to other options as well. Just dont want to put too much time in building a trailer setup right now.

EDIT:
Something along these lines
http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/rvs/5925722452.html

 

[Big David]

Re: Anyone Tow with a Class C

I too thought about a class c but couldn't find one I could afford. Well, I could afford it just couldn't stomach the smells.
I gave up on the class c's & started looking at a 4 door truck with trailer. They are around $6k for a decent tow rig & trailer is around $1to $2k. Then you need to get a hotel or sweat to death or freeze balls- all on a flat mattress.

Then I saw the ad for a retired school bus that had been modified to haul a rig in the back. I sold my wife on the idea that it's a tow rig, trailer & camper all rolled into a 35 foot package.

Empty or loaded it drives about the same.
Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[the_white_shadow]

I saw the bus you just bought. Thought about making him an offer on it, but had to go offshore for work. Didnt want to waste his time. Looks like you did well and should work out great.

I have a 14 ram 2500 already. Been using a 30ft goosneck deck over to haul my rig on, but i share it with my brother and dont want to have to take the truck camper on and off it all the time.

A nice slide in camper and a bumper pull may work out best if I cant find the right class C.

 

[lowbudgetjunk]

Things I can tell you. Tire age matters a ton. Factor in tires needing to be replaced at 5 years no matter the tread. If the coach has brand new 4 year old tires, they have one season left on them. Roof leaks are super common. Check and double check for visible and olfactory cues. Electronics in these mobiles have gotten better over the years, but anything you buy, new included, will require some tinkering.

Find one that has been used, not used up. Low mileage does not necessarily mean good things. Make sure everything works when you go to purchase. Everything costs more because it is an RV.

As far as pulling, as long as you stay within your towing capacity, they will do great. Don't expect to win any races and leave plenty of room to stop. I have had it to a 40 foot coach down to as short as 25 feet. They all have up and downsides. Find the features you want and don't compromise. Good luck and keep the questions coming. There is at least one full timer on here.

 

[gottagofast]

My .02....

Everyone and their brother wants a class C.... They think a class A is too big...
Pushes the class C's up in price even tho you get less for your money...
Kinda the same as how you used to be able to buy a used 1 ton truck cheaper than a half ton before everyone went diesel crazy the last decade or so.

You can get more for your money in a class A.... Just my opinion of course....

I once pulled a trailer loaded down with a TJ, two 4 wheelers and a dirt bike across several states with a 90's 24' champion class A with a 454.

I set cruise on 75 and ran the generator to power the roof AC... Burned a LOT of gas but towed great and was a heck of a great trip for my buds and I.

 

[TBItoy]

U haul

 

[gottagofast]

Too add to what lowbudge... Said...
Water damage touches literally 90% of all used RV's

Recent repairs are NOT a selling point, they are a huge red flag...

Water damage is like an iceburg... One TINY wrinkle in the paneling inside the back wall cabinet that requires a flashlight and a mirror to find most likely signifies damage that could cost between $2000 and $8000 to repair...

I promise that is not an exaggeration at all...

When you think you have found the one, STOP, calm down and take it to a well known trustworthy dealer and PAY an hour of labor for them to look it over...

Tell them your main concern is water intrusion and rot and systems are secondary..

I've been living in RVs for over 10 years now and have seen a thing or two.

 

[the_white_shadow]

Thanks for the info guys. Ive been looking at Class A MH's as well. Prices seem to be around $9-12k for decent ones. A little out of my range. Currently its just me plus my passenger that this will need to sleep. Thats usually my dad or my brother.

UHaul is out. Dont need or want another project, unless i can find one already converted.

Whatever i buy i will make damn sure everything works and there hasnt been any water damage. I know water is the biggest enemy for these things.

 

[Big David]

I looked at the u hauls too but figured the only reason they get rid of them is because there is something wrong with them, only offered in gas engines, only sits 3 & limited room for beds/ etc. once the Jeep was loaded inside.

Never even considered a class A due to their size. They seemed WAY too wide, but it only takes a few miles until you are comfortable with its size in relation with the road & traffic. I'd get one now because they are such a better bang for the buck.

This is the first time driving something this large & it is not that bad. Mirrors help a lot. Although 11 years I did drive a 26 foot U Haul for probably 30 miles.

 

[kkoepper]

To add to what lowbudgetjunk said: If you are looking at a class C pay special attention to the front bunk overhang. Because of the way they are constructed, unless they have a full fiberglass cap, they are going to leak. Period. Very difficult to keep sealed. Check out the frame behind the rear wheels. Many have been modified to extend the length and the mods are barely sufficient to carry the weight of the RV, much less the extra stress of a trailer. Also check out the weight ratings for rear axle. Again, most are going to be marginal for the use you want. Class A's are less prone to leak, due to not having an overhang, but will still leak at roof joints and around windows. Look for deformed (delaminated) fiberglass siding under windows and any other openings on any RV. I love these things, but they are a constant maintenance item. After years of having motorhomes, I went to a toyhauler. Less to worry about. If repairs have been done right, which is not usually the case, don't be afraid of them. During my five years as an RV tech, and after that for myself, I've rebuilt a number of front caps and repaired a lot of water damage.
These things are definitely a blessing to have, just realize that they need a lot of care to keep you happy. I still love them though.

 

[the_white_shadow]

I appreciate the info. Whatever camper i get, i will do a thorough check for leaks. I dont mind waiting for the right one to pop up. I still have time until my new build is complete. I still need to sell my first gen dodge dually. Anyone interested? LOL.