Anyone use Holley HP EFI on an LS1?

[yankster]

I'm thinking about trying this injection system on Bombshell. It has the factory ECM now with a Jim's Performance tune installed.
I can't get the thing to stay running. It surges at idle and eventually dies. When the idle does smooth out it dies when I put it into gear.
I took it to a local tuner and they can't seem to figure it out how to tune it without a speed sensor installed, and their aren't any good LS tuners in NE Pennsylvania.
The closest is in Philadelphia, which is three hours away and $500 minimum.
Let me know what your experiences are.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-550-602/overview/
https://www.holley.com/550-602.asp

 

[mna0121]

Man I am glad you are asking this. We talked about this and the new HP Tuners yesterday. JJ and I cut down a wiring harness a while back but I wasn't sure I would use it or not, I was leaning toward the Holley HP. If I end up using the stock computer and harness I am going with a speed density tune w/o knock sensors, w/o MAF or 02's. Much simpler system. It works off air pressure inside the intake instead of a Mass Air Flow. Once enough air surpasses the capability of the MAF sensor the map relies totally on numbers created by the tuner. This is where the HP Tuner comes in, have to know how or have someone that does. I think JJ told me the Tuner has a stand alone feature and capable of Speed Density. The Holley requires all the sensors to work properly to be a true stand alone, it has a function that saves a custom tune but ain't that a waste of money? Did you watch the vid on Holly site, they manually change numbers in the fuel table and you can watch the hp in Stand mode correct the numbers for what the engine needs. The HP will tune itself within two pulls and continue to "learn" as you do what ever you do. You can find a start up tune on LS1tech, close to your engine specs with enough searching but I think Holley has a base tune for the HP on their site.

Where have you found the best price on the HP? Subscribed !!!!!!

 

[mna0121]

Is the computer throwing a code. If it is not two things electrical or vacuum. Start with vac. if you want to try a repair on what you have. There is a little router on driver rear of intake, looks like a miniature sludge pump, remove it go to pick n pull get one like yours replace it make sure all hoses are good. Sometimes this thing will leak just enough not to throw a code.

 

[yankster]

No codes at all. It's been to a local dyno tuner twice and they can't seem to figure it out. When I read the live data on my scanner the only thing that looks weird is the fuel trim, which the tuner says has been adjusted to richen things up. I'm at my wit's end trying to get this thing to run. I'll check the router you're talking about.

 

[bjeep]

Check your IAC and see if it is open or closed. That will tell you if you have a vacuum leak.

 

[yankster]

Check your IAC and see if it is open or closed. That will tell you if you have a vacuum leak.

Also a new development: The tuner said I needed a speed sensor. The interwebs are 50/50 on the subject.
A rep from EFI Live said you should never tune an engine without a VSS so I ordered the kit from Advance Adapters.
It utilizes a factory speed sensor. I installed that today and now it idles at 1500 rpms when the PCM is commanding 888 rpms, but doesn't die anymore.
When I first start the engine it idles at the commanded rpm but then idles up after 5 seconds or so. Any ideas?

Not sure what this means

 

[NTIDWELL]

The Holley system is IMO the best you can buy it reprograms itself while running can be an issue if you start having fuel pump issues because it will reprogram to run the same as it was getting full fuel. We watched some reps do a dyno it pull 420hp they went into computer and made motor barely run reran dyno it pulled 420 again and idled smooth by end of dyno pull. But in your case a good Tuner can get it straighten out

 

[bjeep]

Also a new development: The tuner said I needed a speed sensor. The interwebs are 50/50 on the subject.
A rep from EFI Live said you should never tune an engine without a VSS so I ordered the kit from Advance Adapters.
It utilizes a factory speed sensor. I installed that today and now it idles at 1500 rpms when the PCM is commanding 888 rpms, but doesn't die anymore.
When I first start the engine it idles at the commanded rpm but then idles up after 5 seconds or so. Any ideas?

Not sure what this means

Dose it change ?
I would put a IAC on it. Had one do the same thing with no codes.

 

[TBItoy]

Also a new development: The tuner said I needed a speed sensor. The interwebs are 50/50 on the subject.
A rep from EFI Live said you should never tune an engine without a VSS so I ordered the kit from Advance Adapters.
It utilizes a factory speed sensor. I installed that today and now it idles at 1500 rpms when the PCM is commanding 888 rpms, but doesn't die anymore.
When I first start the engine it idles at the commanded rpm but then idles up after 5 seconds or so. Any ideas?

Not sure what this means

Sounds like the IAC motor is bad.

 

[1TONTJ]

Interested to see how you fix the problem. Just got mine running and its already doing exactly what you described. I don't have a VSS either.

 

[tc1]

Dose it change ?
I would put a IAC on it. Had one do the same thing with no codes.

X2 :****: mine was acting crazy changed the IAC and verified with the throttle body off before all the way closed i could see light after no light

 

[yankster]

New idle air control valve installed after a thorough cleaning of the throttle body. No change.
It must be something in the tune making it idle up so high. As soon as it starts it drops to the commanded
888 rpms. Then, after about 10 seconds like you flipped a switch it goes to 1600 and stays there.

 

[greenlion]

I have a lot of experience with HP EFI. It can do pretty much anything you want. I'm not a typist though so pm me a number if you want to discuss.

 

[bjeep]

New idle air control valve installed after a thorough cleaning of the throttle body. No change.
It must be something in the tune making it idle up so high. As soon as it starts it drops to the commanded
888 rpms. Then, after about 10 seconds like you flipped a switch it goes to 1600 and stays there.

Have you talked to Jim? He is a great guy. He can help you a lot over the phone.
Coolant temp sensor is reading the right engine temp?
What is the fuel pressure?

 

[tc1]

What are the fuel trims? st and lt

 

[yankster]

Have you talked to Jim? He is a great guy. He can help you a lot over the phone.
Coolant temp sensor is reading the right engine temp?
What is the fuel pressure?

Haven't talked to Jim yet. Fuel pressure is 60 psi. It's a beast at wide open throttle. Dynoed at 336 rwhp with 33x12.50s on it.

 

[yankster]

What are the fuel trims? st and lt

This is running:


When I shut the ignition off the long term is 25.0 both banks and short term is 0.0 both banks.

 

[yankster]

Here's what it does. Something is commanding it to idle up. It's the exact delay every time. Once it idles up it never comes back down.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeYIt9_JZRg

Why don't the videos show up on the screen anymore?

 

[bjeep]

Fuel trims are way off. Call Jim he can tell you what to do.
He will answer the phone now even if it is after 5.

 

[yankster]

Fuel trims are way off. Call Jim he can tell you what to do.
He will answer the phone now even if it is after 5.

From what I understand that's how they make it run without all the extra sensors, cram extra injector pulse width and timing in. 25.0% exactly on both banks tells me it was programmed that way.
I have another appointment with the tuner Monday. If he can't straighten it out I'll probably go with the Holley system so I don't have to keep mailing off the computer to get this thing to run.
It's been my experience that no one cares about my stuff as much as me so I always have to fix everything my self.
What could Jim tell me that I can fix?