Axle tubes

[Maverick26]

I know this has been talked about 100 times or more but just one more time.

Who does the retubing of axles around here? Anyone more local to the Arlington north I5 area?

I think it was Those Guys or someone else that did it but just want to be sure. Thanks.

 

[Avanteone]

Dean @ Bent Metal Customs
Karl @ Jantz Engineering

 

[sammy11]

Dean @ Bent Metal Customs
Karl @ Jantz Engineering

both are top notch machinist

 

[Clark]

I would suggest Dean, @ bent metal customs. Just not for a month or two.

I have heard nothing but good things about Jantz Engineering too, but don't have any first hand experience.

 

[fortric]

Jantz does good work. Have had him do some work for my work and parts worked great

 

[PORTER]

Another vote for Carl Jantz.

 

[wheelinjp]

dean does great work. Bent metal vote here. he did my 60's.

 

[Maverick26]

Well I called Dean and got some great info from him. Im gonna try and grind off all my brakets and BS off the tubes I have and hope to keep them looking ok. The front is .500 wall tube now. My rear 60 is .375 wall and wanted to save a little weight and get some new tube on there to weld to but at the cost of over $500 to just press the tube on is a little more then I was thinking of spending.

So my dumb question of the day is can I do it myself?

I know that the 60 has a funky OD on the tube at 3.12" or so but it looks like to me that they had to turn down the factory tube to press it into the housing. Im assuming to about 3" cause the step down looks about like that. If I could cut and hack the old tube out of the housing and make my own tube jig I would still be out ahead. I can get 3"x.375" DOM for 122 bucks for 4' and maybe even cheaper cause that was just a ball park price thru OLM.

Since this is a front housing what about the seals? I think the seals get pushed into the housing casting and not the tube correct?

 

[Avanteone]

With the right equipment I'm sure it could be done yourself. There's a reason it costs that much though, he's got all the equipment. He can turn the tubes, have them properly pressed in, has all the alignment equipment, etc.

 

[Mrblue]

Well I called Dean and got some great info from him. Im gonna try and grind off all my brakets and BS off the tubes I have and hope to keep them looking ok. The front is .500 wall tube now. My rear 60 is .375 wall and wanted to save a little weight and get some new tube on there to weld to but at the cost of over $500 to just press the tube on is a little more then I was thinking of spending.

So my dumb question of the day is can I do it myself?

I know that the 60 has a funky OD on the tube at 3.12" or so but it looks like to me that they had to turn down the factory tube to press it into the housing. Im assuming to about 3" cause the step down looks about like that. If I could cut and hack the old tube out of the housing and make my own tube jig I would still be out ahead. I can get 3"x.375" DOM for 122 bucks for 4' and maybe even cheaper cause that was just a ball park price thru OLM.

Since this is a front housing what about the seals? I think the seals get pushed into the housing casting and not the tube correct?

The tubes are a 4-6 thou press fit and the seal is machined into the tube.:awesomework:
Keep the 1/2 wall so it won't turn into a front end with a grin, low weight is a good thing especially in the front:beer:

 

[PORTER]

Keep the 1/2 wall so it won't turn into a front end with a grin, low weight is a good thing especially in the front:beer:

I will second this, the difference in weight wont affect the rig at all and to have a strong front axle that wont bend is a good thing.:;

 

[Maverick26]

Ok sounds good. Less work for me. If the tube get a little gouged by removing all the brackets and knuckles can I just weld in the low spots and flap wheel it smooth? Dean was saying be really careful welding on the tube cause it will move around. I assume just be smart with the amount of heat I put to it. I plan on welding the tube to the housing also.

 

[PORTER]

Ok sounds good. Less work for me. If the tube get a little gouged by removing all the brackets and knuckles can I just weld in the low spots and flap wheel it smooth? Dean was saying be really careful welding on the tube cause it will move around. I assume just be smart with the amount of heat I put to it. I plan on welding the tube to the housing also.

Just weld up the gouges, you have to put alot of heat into the axle expecially near the center section to cause anything to happen(highly unlikely to happen in your case). I wouldnt loose any sleep over it as people weld brackets etc on these all the time and dont have any issues. Secondly, welding the tube to the center IMO on a front is uneccesary, mine and countless others have had no issues in this area. Now I have seen a few rears done as the tubes tend to get loose over time, but the rear end guys will tell you to start over with a different housing when this happens. I have had mine welded up 2 times now, and should have started over with a different housing but I was too cheap at the time.

 

[Mrblue]

Ok sounds good. Less work for me. If the tube get a little gouged by removing all the brackets and knuckles can I just weld in the low spots and flap wheel it smooth? Dean was saying be really careful welding on the tube cause it will move around. I assume just be smart with the amount of heat I put to it. I plan on welding the tube to the housing also.

If you get the press fit right shouldn't need to weld to center.... if it worries you do what currie does and drill and tap the tube and center front and back on each side and use stainless button heads to eliminate the tube from spinning in the center. Also use a quality rvt when pressing the tubes in, it acts as a lube for an easier press as well as sealing any imperfections.:beer:

 

[crash2]

When I did mine (front) stuck the tubes in the freezer for a day and then plopped them into the center. I also plug welded the tubes in 6 places per side and never had an issue.

 

[Maverick26]

Thanks guys for the good info. I'm gonna try to save the tube first and see where that goes. I'll have to play nice with the torch and grinder.

 

[crash2]

Thanks guys for the good info. I'm gonna try to save the tube first and see where that goes. I'll have to play nice with the torch and grinder.

Here is something I did years ago when I built my HP44 for my toy.

I took a corp 10 front housing and cut the center to save the tube. I gotta say that cast center was the oddest thing I had ever cut with a torch. But I was able to peel the cast off with only a couple small nicks in the tube.

Drilled the plug welds out of the 44 and pressed the tube out(jason did that).

All I had to do was pound the corp 10 tube into the center and re-plug weld it. Was good for when I ran it/never had a problem with the tube.

 

[mark]

Did the same thing to make a passenger drop, HP44. Except i nmy case it I sacrificed a Dodge D44 and HP center with the tubes already torched off.

Used a combo of torch and 1/8" cut-off wheel in my 7" grinder. Actually a piece of cake.


Course, this was D44 stuff, cheaper and easier than D60 stuff. But if I can do it in the dirt, under a tent 6+ years ago, you can do it. :redneck:

 

[mcbadwish]

I just did a d44 high pin I torched out the plug welds cut the tube and welded a cap to the end and used a bottle jack to jack the tubes out. The machine work would take a machinest probably 20 minutes to turn oversize tube down and cut the seal bore. Im just a dumb bolt twister and I did the machine work on the lathe at work in a hour for both sides.