Back to square one.......

[Pook]

I had to check to make sure my hood was still in the shop. :flipoff:

My guess as to why you don't need as big a hole cut is because your hood is sitting higher and its wider so its not into the flat fenders and the downslope.

 

[PORTER]

Looks like it will fit well, and about 5-6" lower than in the picture, but i didn't have the balls to cut it up, i'm going to sleep on it, and quadruple check everything tomorrow before i get to hacking! :redneck:

Any advice from you guys who already cut yours? I notice most people's holes are huge compared to what i have planned.

With the way you angled the radiator so far back I wonder if you are going to have overheating issues at higher speeds like Roccrawler did.

 

[Clark]

I sure hope not, why would i have a problem? As far as i know it should work.

 

[TreeClimber]

As slow speed, the motor works less hard, and develops less heat. So the fan is responsible for pulling air thru the radiator.

By tilting the radiator backwards, you've created (in effect) a wedge. The air that would normally be forced by speed thru the radiator now can be diverted upwards and over the radiator. The fins of the radiator also don't help with this effect, as they too are angled, thereby furthering the blockage of normal wind-aided cooling.

at least that's my theory.

 

[Clark]

So how about when people mount the rad behind the seats? Seems like in front at an angle should see more airflow than any angle in the back. I guess it doesn't even matter since that's the only way the radiator fits anyways.:redneck:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

So how about when people mount the rad behind the seats?

WHOOOOOOREEEEEEOOOOOOOEEEEOOOOOOO


(that was a really loud hard to talk over fan noise):awesomework:

 

[Jaydog]

Wow, Clark that thing looks sick :cool:

I would gladly trade my left nut for a rig like that, maybe even both, but then I would probably loose the desire :redneck:

 

[Clark]

OK i'm about to go commit sacralige to my new Twi$ted Cu$tom$ hood, will post up the success or failure later on:drinker:

 

[Fordzuki]

Just make a deflector for the front of the radiator to duct the air in.
Looking real good Clark. :awesomework:

 

[44newman]

OK i'm about to go commit sacralige to my new Twi$ted Cu$tom$ hood, will post up the success or failure later on:drinker:

Its been 13 minutes, whats the hold up.

 

[Pook]

OK i'm about to go commit sacralige to my new Twi$ted Cu$tom$ hood, will post up the success or failure later on:drinker:

You could always start by cutting it down the middle with a skillsaw :eeek:

Took me a few minutes to get my nerves up.

One good thing fiberglass is easy to patch up. Walmart sells a nice complete fiberglass kit, resin and mesh included. Its what Jason at TC told me they use themselves for repairs and cutting them up.

 

[PORTER]

As slow speed, the motor works less hard, and develops less heat. So the fan is responsible for pulling air thru the radiator.

By tilting the radiator backwards, you've created (in effect) a wedge. The air that would normally be forced by speed thru the radiator now can be diverted upwards and over the radiator. The fins of the radiator also don't help with this effect, as they too are angled, thereby furthering the blockage of normal wind-aided cooling.

at least that's my theory.

Not theory, the truth. Troy had no overheating issues with his at lower wheelin speeds but when we were racing around at higher speeds he overheated pretty bad so he had to go much slower. In the end he had to stand it up to get over the prob. Only one way to find out, but with the rad sloped that far back its a good possibility.

 

[MarcW]

Some simple ducting could fix the radiator problem quite easily.

 

[jimboy]

start in a central point of the shock hoop, and take ur time. Work ur way outward.
It is too bad those hoops are so large there wont be much support for the fenders.

 

[PORTER]

start in a central point of the shock hoop, and take ur time. Work ur way outward.
It is too bad those hoops are so large there wont be much support for the fenders.

Doesnt really matter as after he takes a few pics the thing will be on its lid and the fiberglass will be all cracked up.:D

 

[Binder]

If you put a Taurus fan on it the rad will be fine. Mine is much more horizontal than yours with no issues.:awesomework:

 

[Money Mark]

If you put a Taurus fan on it the rad will be fine. Mine is much more horizontal than yours with no issues.:awesomework:

Nope! That won't work. :redneck:

 

[Clark]

Success, did you expect anything less?:fawkdancesmiley: and the radiator clears nicely too. Seeing the front end on there is highly motivating.:smokey:

 

[Bunk1]

It finally looks like sumthin...Ya gotta be stoked now

 

[Clark]

Yeah i'm stoked:monkey:

 

[Boosted]

Very cool....damn that thing is looking good. Definately a fun build to watch. :awesomework:

 

[darius]

Your radiator will be fine, no issues. Troys rad was layed back about the same as binders. The last 10 or so cars we built were about identical to that, and they had no issues. You've gotta have it layed back probably 30+ degrees to create a problem, troys was set at 45. Rig is looking good.

 

[stealthrunner1]

Your radiator will be fine, no issues. Troys rad was layed back about the same as binders. The last 10 or so cars we built were about identical to that, and they had no issues. You've gotta have it layed back probably 30+ degrees to create a problem, troys was set at 45. Rig is looking good.

Hi "D"!! :hi::hi:

 

[slednecks1124]

You could always start by cutting it down the middle with a skillsaw :eeek:

Took me a few minutes to get my nerves up.

One good thing fiberglass is easy to patch up. Walmart sells a nice complete fiberglass kit, resin and mesh included. Its what Jason at TC told me they use themselves for repairs and cutting them up.

http://www.fiberlay.com/howto/Fiberglass-Epoxy-Basics-Training-Guide.pdf

If your new to working with fiberglass take a look at the link above, this will give you some basic ideas for working with it. Alot of people think it is just a simple proccess of adding hardner to the resin, there are alot of different factors which can be the difference between a good and bad part. Take the time to educate yourself a little before you get in over your head. :awesomework:

If you need a resin roller or some cloth let me know as I work for a company who makes Fiberglass spray equipment, ill hook you up.

Theres a company called revchem plastics in tacoma who sells resins & f/g accessories, i believe thats in your neck of the woods

 

[Clark]

Thanks guys!

My dad whipped up a new idler pulley spacer for me for christmas:redneck:, my old one would've worked, but it wasn't pretty. He stole the old one from my shop, and made this one out of ***anium on his lathe, and tig welded a flange to the bottom of it. I think it's pretty cool, and i'm going to have to convince him to make up some more Ti parts for me:smokey:


I love the fact i don't have to paint it too:blingbling:

 

[sly-yota]

nice man!
merry x-mas buddy :beer::corn:

 

[comanchekid]

:corn:bump back to page 1.....

 

[Clark]

I've been working on it but it's one step forwards, 2 back. Nothing worthy of posting right now.

 

[stealthrunner1]

That's OK clark some times in a build it hard to show progress in a build when theres no large visual progress for picts....:awesomework: :;

 

[CHOP SHOP]

That's OK clark some times in a build it hard to show progress in a build when theres no large visual progress for picts....:awesomework: :;

thats the hardest time to stay focused too. No good visual rewards, just tons of stuff that feels like you havnet got further.

Ask me how I know? (as my buggy thingy sits and the toyota is ready to go)