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Ball joint high steer?

TBItoy

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Re: Re: Ball joint high steer?

All the dynatrac 60s use the pre unit bearing balljoint knuckles. They have high steer. Doesn't look very strong but i reckon it works.

Weaver fab does high steer for the unit bearing knuckles. Looks beef

Rocksolid does high steer also
 

Big86inthestixx

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Sep 2, 2012
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Re:

I have rock solids high steers of my UB 60...they are the shiznit! Double keyed and 4 hardened bolts. I'd recommend them over the dynatrac ones,, those (last I knew) were only single keyed.
 

RustyC

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Mine are welded. I made my own arms from 1/2" x 4" cold rolled. Removed the balljoints and unit bearing. Sandblasted the knuckles. Preheated, welded, post heat and a slow cool down on the bbq grill.
The arms were keyed to the brake caliper mounts prior to welding, also tied into the stock arm. Working for me. 16.5 wheels in the pic.

 

TBItoy

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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels/1772705-98-down-ball-joint-dana-60-knuckle-machining-high-steer.html


Saw this today

Neal, looks like this guy is your huckleberry

photo3_zpsb8fa96ec.jpg.html
 

09zkrankin

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catlettsburg KY
Def going to be doing this now. Several people told me there wasn't enough meat there but I was pretty sure it could be done. For that price I think I'll just send mine to him so I don't have to mess with it


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

TBItoy

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Technician said:
I guess ill get my unit bearings from branick. Thats the best deal so far.

Still not cheap though...

Keeping the 8x170 wheel pattern isn't all that bad, then you just have to bore the centers out to fit a 35 spline shaft
 

Neal3000

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To me that just doesn't look that strong, the studs are too close together and its keyed in the wrong direction

I like Rusty's solution, weld that **** on there
 

TBItoy

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Neal3000 said:
To me that just doesn't look that strong, the studs are too close together and its keyed in the wrong direction

I like Rusty's solution, weld that **** on there

Welding it on there is a much more economical solution.

Not sure what your seeing to say the studs are too close together or keyed in the wrong direction?

that guy is using the same arms on all 3 generations of BJ knuckles, the step creates a "key" and the U around the caliper bracket creates a key.


But yeah, I'm just going to weld some arms on my unit bearing knuckles.

Currently I'm looking into mounting the knuckles backwards to put the steering behind the axle, over the pinion...
 

Neal3000

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Just my lameass opinion of course, but i think the keyway should be parallel to the arms, that perpendicular step just doesn't seem like it would add much, the notch in the back is barely going around the brake mount. All the stress going down into the knuckle of those 6 studs looks too concentated in a small area on top of the knuckle, a really good shot could just blow the top of the knuckle up. Maybe that setup and then welded would be the shiznit?
 

TBItoy

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Neal3000 said:
Just my lameass opinion of course, but i think the keyway should be parallel to the arms, that perpendicular step just doesn't seem like it would add much, the notch in the back is barely going around the brake mount. All the stress going down into the knuckle of those 6 studs looks too concentated in a small area on top of the knuckle, a really good shot could just blow the top of the knuckle up. Maybe that setup and then welded would be the shiznit?


Yeah, it's not quite as ideal like you'd have on top of a aftermarket Solid D60 knuckle (6 studs and a keyed arm),

I'd bet it is a lot stronger than a standard KP60 4 bolt arm..


I also just realized that you are most likely talking about the 98 and down knuckle hi steer.... since that is the axle you have.


Yeah, I agree that it doesn't look quite as beefy up top as the 99-04 style. There is just a lot more meat on top of the unit bearing knuckle (like the one that RustyC posted).
The brake caliper ear is a lot taller and more pronounced also.


But that step/shelf combined with the U key, chances are, it's not going anywhere (assuming it is machined correctly and fits with a tight tolerance. It'll be way stronger than any other non-keyed setups.

4WHEELSUPPLY
98-down
photo1_zpsec3368fe.jpg


99-04
photo3_zpsa8d49a76.jpg




ROCK SOLID PERFORMANCE
99-04
2011_12_19_20_52_57_671__52524.1401311752.1280.1280.jpg


05+
2012_09_13_11_44_10_624__90518.1363870318.1280.1280.jpg
 

RustyC

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I think getting the upper steer arm tied into the factory lower in double shear will gain tons of strength if there is a way. That goes for any knuckle Toyota, Ford balljoint, kingpins all of them. Machined and welded/bolted even better. thumb.gif
 

TBItoy

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RustyC said:
I think getting the upper steer arm tied into the factory lower in double shear will gain tons of strength if there is a way. That goes for any knuckle Toyota, Ford balljoint, kingpins all of them. Machined and welded/bolted even better. thumb.gif


Toyota's don't have an arm cast into the knuckle, but there are several solutions to that (5th stud, top/bottom arms, arms welded to the knuckle, aftermarket 6 shooter knuckle)
 

Neal3000

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RustyC said:
I think getting the upper steer arm tied into the factory lower in double shear will gain tons of strength if there is a way. That goes for any knuckle Toyota, Ford balljoint, kingpins all of them. Machined and welded/bolted even better. thumb.gif

I used to think that too but i've seen a couple of kp high steer arms that sheered the studs like that tie- in bolt wasn't even there....
 

Technician

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Somewhiteguy did a double sheer on his toyota knuckle. He welded into the cast. And of corse the world of pirate 4x4 bitched about it. I like the idea of just welding the arm to the knuckle. With pre and post heat it should be fine.
 

TBItoy

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Technician said:
Somewhiteguy did a double sheer on his toyota knuckle. He welded into the cast. And of corse the world of pirate 4x4 bitched about it. I like the idea of just welding the arm to the knuckle. With pre and post heat it should be fine.

I did also, but with low-steer. another set of stock arms cut and fitted, 3 passes of nickel rod, pre and post heat, peened after each pass

 

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