Been tinkering w/ my buggy

[TQJ CJ5]

Bare with me y'all, I'm no fabricator (wish I was) and the stuff below is not anything particularily amazing but it sure brings me a lot of satisfaction when I'm out in the garage making stuff happen on my buggy that I feel are improvements (w/ my own 2 hands plus a little help as well)

Have been using these dreary winter months to update some stuff...just little things but I'm happy that there's some progress

Thank you BNS Fabrication and Hendrix Motorsports for the much needed 2-piece driveshaft center support

Wanted to improve the angle of the joint at the rear of the transfer case. Installed the JB Conversions super short HD SYE kit w/ 1310 yoke. Reduced output length by a good 3" for sure...

Also have heard great things about Tom Woods driveshafts so I placed an order and in 2 days "My shaft has a woody"

Slick little go-kart steering wheel from Grant + quick release

Who says you can't have storage in a buggy?

 

[darius]

So what is the inside of that carrier bearing mount attaching to?

 

[Not Jobless]

What's with the rubber isolators on the carrier bearing? Seems to me that any flex at the mount will lead to unforseen d-shaft bind and or failure at the carrier bearing itself.

All the ones I have seen are bolted securely to a substantial mount where there is no room for movement/flex.

 

[Cascade_Crawler]

What's with the rubber isolators on the carrier bearing? Seems to me that any flex at the mount will lead to unforseen d-shaft bind and or failure at the carrier bearing itself.

All the ones I have seen are bolted securely to a substantial mount where there is no room for movement/flex.

The rubber isolators are standard issue on those Hendrix mounts. You gota have some "movement" if you dont have a slip between the pillow block and t case output. That mount looks pretty weak though, there is quite a bit of force applied to the pillow block mount

 

[sarg]

my last setup was the same carrier from hendrix with the rubber isolators but I did mount it alot stronger than that. I think your biggest problem would be hitting the drive shaft with all the weight of the buggy :;

 

[Boonie Buster]

Having had a 12' long d-line on the s-10 with the carrier bearing, the actual bearing is surrounded by rubber to help with some movement. Since that bearing is solid it needs those ruber mounts to allow it that bit of movement. And ya, that looks very weak, any bit of high speed wobble WILL tear that thing to shreds.

 

[Not Jobless]

Having had a 12' long d-line on the s-10 with the carrier bearing, the actual bearing is surrounded by rubber to help with some movement. Since that bearing is solid it needs those ruber mounts to allow it that bit of movement. And ya, that looks very weak, any bit of high speed wobble WILL tear that thing to shreds.

What you describe is like what I have in my tow rig, but it also has slip built in as well.

 

[64FJ40]

That mount looks pretty weak though, there is quite a bit of force applied to the pillow block mount

That single piece of bent vertical flat stock will be taking the majority of the force due to the angle of joint deflection. That same force will also destroy those rubber isolators in short order as the pillow block will be pushed upwards with any torque on the driveshaft.


Still better than Joop's fenders. I say run it and upgrade the mount if/when it bends or breaks.

 

[dirk]

Still better than Joop's fenders.

:haha::haha::haha:

 

[Boonie Buster]

What you describe is like what I have in my tow rig, but it also has slip built in as well.

ya, that's how the s-10 was setup. it had a slip yoke output, d-line to the carrier, then an actually slip section (sort of in the carrier...) and down to the pinion.

 

[TQJ CJ5]

I pulled the bearing out of the OEM Toyota center support bearing assembly. That bearing is snugly fit into the Hendrix piece and secured with a snap ring.

The bushings are not soft rubber, they're actually rather firm but will provide just enough shock absorbtion.

Keith (of BNS) didn't think there was any reason to doubt the strength of this carrier set-up. I would hope that if he felt this would be sub-standard strength-wise that he'd beef it up. In addition, this setup was tested prior to welding to ensure there was absolutely no binding in full droop and compression.

Anywho, we'll see how it holds up. A heckuva lot better than how it was before (no offense to Derrick but the OEM center support bearing with the destroyed rubber surround was knockin' around something fierce and even destroyed the ujoints at each of the front 2 pice driveshaft). the previous mount wasn't angled correctly so there was a lot of stress on the rubber surround

 

[Binder]

it sure brings me a lot of satisfaction when I'm out in the garage making stuff happen on my buggy that I feel are improvements (w/ my own 2 hands plus a little help as well)

Feels good to build yer own stuff!

A agree that pillow block mount may be a bit weak but it's hard to tell from the pictures. Just run it and find out.:awesomework:

 

[sarg]

you dont have to worry about the hendrix pillowblock I beat the **** out of mine and it never let me down, but I had alot stronger mount of my chassis than yours. I would just plate what you have and kinda box it up with some 3/16th plate and go wheelin.

 

[ChrisCo]

I'm not going to critique your work... I just wanted to chime in with a :awesomework: for working on your own chit, Terry. Feels good to know you can do it when you want to, huh?

 

[deerlick]

no offense takin, i had the part and never had time to put it on. glad ur fixin the little issues i showed you when you bought it.

 

[TQJ CJ5]

Feels good to build yer own stuff!

A agree that pillow block mount may be a bit weak but it's hard to tell from the pictures. Just run it and find out.:awesomework:

I think I'll do just that...run it and find out :beer:

 

[TQJ CJ5]

no offense takin, i had the part and never had time to put it on. glad ur fixin the little issues i showed you when you bought it.

now if I can only figure out how to get the tranny from leaking. even after dropping the pan slapping on a new high quality gasket, fixing one of the stripped case holes and properly torquing it, the thing is still leaking...

I'm tending to wonder if it's leaking through the input shaft area and dripping down the bell housing, following gravity to the lip of the pan and then to the floor