Belt tensioners

briejer · Apr 7, 2008

I'm running a sepentine belt and currently using a factory Ford spring tensioner. When I put a load on the P/S pump, the belt goes slack between the crank and first pump.

Previously I used a serpentine belt with a manual slide type tensioner. I did not have many issues with it.

What is the benifit of the spring tensioner? Only reason I see is so the belt does not need manual tightening.

If I am wrong please convince before I tear things apart and toss the spring tensioner for a manual one.

Eric · Apr 7, 2008

less work to put the belt back on? at least thats the only reason I can think of.

Sounds like the springs not going to work for you. Unless you can get a bigger spring option, or some way to make it hold.

I would go back to the manuel belt tensioner, how many times do you have to adjust your belt tension?

Offer still stands if you need a hand sometime this next week, pm me if you need a hand, I am just in the Tacoma area, and as of right now I am not doing much as far as work.......so I have a little extra free time.

Totalled · Apr 7, 2008

How far into it's ark of travel is the tensioner before it takes the slack out of the belt? The less it swings before it tightens up the belt, the more tension it puts on it. Might need a slightly shorter belt.

TigTorch · Apr 7, 2008

Hey Briejer, something dosen't sound right.

The tensioner should be after the last of the driven pulleys and before the belt returns back to the drive pulley (crank shaft). The orientation of the tensioner arm may need to be correct (swing with the direction of belt travel as opposed to swing away from the direction of belt travel). Sounds like you have the tensioner located between two driven loads.

Seems to me it should work, there is a science to it though. I would take a close study of the original set up it came off of.

JOOP · Apr 7, 2008

I'd prefer a belt tensioner over a manual. Mine is manual right now, set perfect but a PITA every time I need to do some front end engine work. Its just as easy to switch out a new belt tension as it is to manually tighten it. Also when the belt stretches a bit the manual set-up doesn't compensate for it, vs. a tensioner does.

briejer · Apr 8, 2008

It's now a manual belt and I have it tight as ****. All 4 wheels steer and my neighbors are pissed due to open headers and lots of RPM.

Bunk1 · Apr 8, 2008

briejer said:
It's now a manual belt and I have it tight as ****. All 4 wheels steer and my neighbors are pissed due to open headers and lots of RPM.

HA HA HA HA...There all saying.."Its back"....right on Robin

Eric · Apr 8, 2008

cool glad to hear you got it all figured out

briejer · Apr 8, 2008

Eric said:
cool glad to hear you got it all figured out

It's not figured out

I think my issue is that there is 12" of belt from the crank pulley to the first power steeeing pump.

I thought it might be a pump issue, so I put a pressure guage on each pump. the result was 700-800psi at idle 1200-1400 at high RPM.
Next I checked one pump at a time for volume.....no real way to measure it, but they both flowed the same.

And I ended with another 1/2 gallon or so on the floor:looser:

I hate spending all day and all I get is a stormy mind and a slimey garage floor.

Back to the drawing board.:booo: :booo:

Fordzuki · Apr 8, 2008

Can you get a picture of the setup straight on?

briejer · Apr 8, 2008

Fordzuki said:
Can you get a picture of the setup straight on?

If I pull the radiator....there may some pics in the Sausage thread in the Garage section

GaryTJ · Apr 8, 2008

from the picture in the garage thread it looks like when you accelerate the belt will unload between the crank and the lower p/s pump. A idler pulley with the guide side rails will probably hold it in line OK.

Just an opinion.

Fordzuki · Apr 8, 2008

That setup looks like it should work. The only thing that I could think of is your tensioner is on the longest stretch of belt, would this put more leverage on the tensioner, making it not strong enough? Also wondering if another idler between the crank and first pump might help, or possibly even a tensioner there?

briejer · Apr 9, 2008

The space is tight between the crank and first pump when the upper link is compessed. The plan is to get an idle pulley in there some how.

Never thought putting on a belt would cause me so much trouble:looser: .

Fordzuki · Apr 9, 2008

briejer said:
The space is tight between the crank and first pump when the upper link is compessed. The plan is to get an idle pulley in there some how.

Never thought putting on a belt would cause me so much trouble:looser: .

That is the space you were talking about getting slack though right? I was just thinking if you had another spring tensioner in there, it would take up the slack when it occurs. looks like it might be a pain to mount one there though.

Eric · Apr 9, 2008

briejer said:
The space is tight between the crank and first pump when the upper link is compessed. The plan is to get an idle pulley in there some how.

Never thought putting on a belt would cause me so much trouble:looser: .

Its those darn single belt systems, sometimes multiple belts are easier to deal with.

GaryTJ · Apr 9, 2008

Fordzuki said:
That is the space you were talking about getting slack though right? I was just thinking if you had another spring tensioner in there, it would take up the slack when it occurs. looks like it might be a pain to mount one there though.

I don't recomend 2 tensioners. 1 will load and the other unload. Stick with one tensioner and all other pulleys are loads or idlers.

from experience.