bolt yankin' help

Zap · Mar 2, 2007

How do I get the forward bolt on the passenger side rear leaf spring to back out?
The gas tank is too close to hit it with anything or get good leverage with a prybar.

Help. . . ? :wtf:

Thanks.
EZ

NotMatt · Mar 2, 2007

Zap said:
How do I get the forward bolt on the passenger side rear leaf spring to back out?
The gas tank is too close to hit it with anything or get good leverage with a prybar.

Help. . . ? :wtf:

Thanks.
EZ

Would help to know what kind of rig you're working on... :;

crash2 · Mar 2, 2007

Zap said:
How do I get the forward bolt on the passenger side rear leaf spring to back out?
The gas tank is too close to hit it with anything or get good leverage with a prybar.

Help. . . ? :wtf:

Thanks.
EZ

Is it stuck and won't move at all? Or you just don't have enough room to totaly remove it?

Zap · Mar 2, 2007

Oh yeah sorry. 85 Toy.

crash said:
Is it stuck and won't move at all? Or you just don't have enough room to totaly remove it?

It'll turn, but won't back out. I have some nerf bars I want to install. They attach to the tranny cross member and the bolt I'm having problems with. The driver's side is not an issue. Just the passenger side since the gas tank's in the way.

Thanks for the quick replies btw.

crash2 · Mar 2, 2007

The bolt is siezed in the metal sleeve--typical issue. I have gone as far as to burn the bushing/cut the head off and use my air hammer...

Zap · Mar 2, 2007

:booo: bummer.

Ok. I'll do what I gotta do. lol

64FJ40 · Mar 2, 2007

sawzall on both sides of the spring?

cisco · Mar 2, 2007

If you burn them out and need some stock spring bushings, I've got a few kicking around. Send a PM if you need one. Might have one of those bolts too.

skrause · Mar 3, 2007

Impact spinning it while you wedge a prybar somewhat gently behind it. Works every time.

spicker · Mar 3, 2007

64FJ40 said:
sawzall on both sides of the spring?

sawzall works well, or try impact gun and some good old WD-40 and pry bar.:corn:

pokey · Mar 3, 2007

weld a rod or large washer onto it and then pull it out with a slide hammer.
Or weld a 6" piece of allthread to it then slip a deep socket over the bolt (big enough for the bolt hed to fit in) Then stack a couple of washers on the allthread followed by a nut and tighen the nut drawing the bolt out through the socket. You may need to grab the end of the allthread with a pair of visegrips to keep it from spinning (after you thread the nut on)

Zap · Mar 3, 2007

skrause said:
Impact spinning it while you wedge a prybar somewhat gently behind it. Works every time.

I'll try that first.

pokey weld a rod or large washer onto it and then pull it out with a slide hammer.
Or weld a 6" piece of allthread to it then slip a deep socket over the bolt (big enough for the bolt hed to fit in) Then stack a couple of washers on the allthread followed by a nut and tighen the nut drawing the bolt out through the socket. You may need to grab the end of the allthread with a pair of visegrips to keep it from spinning (after you thread the nut on)

I'll try that second.

cisco If you burn them out and need some stock spring bushings, I've got a few kicking around. Send a PM if you need one. Might have one of those bolts too.

If I try the second one, definitely expect a pm from me. lol

Thanks you guys for the help. I'm trying to save my pretty rocker panels, but if I wait for my buddy Ken to fab up some rock sliders, my kid will be old enough to drive by the time he gets them done. :flipoff: @ Ken. :stirpot: :corn:

skrause · Mar 3, 2007

Zap said:
I'm trying to save my pretty rocker panels

With "nerf" bars? :haha: You know you're gonna end up doing more damage if you actually put them to use. Brace them suckers gooooooood.

Zap · Mar 3, 2007

skrause said:
With "nerf" bars? :haha: You know you're gonna end up doing more damage if you actually put them to use. Brace them suckers gooooooood.

You think so?

We thought of notching the folds and or the nerf bars themselves. We were gonna weld them to the frame a little too.
They're big thick smitty built ones. Am I fooling myself?

skrause · Mar 3, 2007

Zap said:
You think so?

We thought of notching the folds and or the nerf bars themselves. We were gonna weld them to the frame a little too.
They're big thick smitty built ones. Am I fooling myself?

The mounts suck. The tube sucks. If you actually USE them they WILL bend everywhere. Somewhere I have a pic of someone's ****tybuilt nerfs "frowning" if you know what I mean. :haha:

Eric · Mar 3, 2007

the smitty built nerfs are what I have on mine, and you can flex them by hand if you want too, they do ok with stumps and keeping the body away, but I would not lift on them or expect them to hold up on rocks.

notstock · Mar 3, 2007

Had one smash into a rocker panel when I had them. Worthless except as a step in stock form.

Roccrawler · Mar 4, 2007

pokey said:
weld a rod or large washer onto it and then pull it out with a slide hammer.
Or weld a 6" piece of allthread to it then slip a deep socket over the bolt (big enough for the bolt hed to fit in) Then stack a couple of washers on the allthread followed by a nut and tighen the nut drawing the bolt out through the socket. You may need to grab the end of the allthread with a pair of visegrips to keep it from spinning (after you thread the nut on)

Good one here...