Bolts?

[Maverick26]

2 nights ago I did the rounds out my rig... found 2 link bolts that were a bit loose so I cranked them down. :awesomework:

 

[jeepmauler]

'Atta boy:awesomework:

In a 4 link,where push/pull forces are gnarly, a loose link bolt can go south fast. Wallo out your link mounts, shear the bolt, pacman(blow out) the heim etc. Nothing good comes from loose fasteners on ORV's.

 

[Damnyankee]

FYI.
This chart is from my company (we are an engineering and manufacturing company of EXTREMELY heavy equptment).. I had to black out some information to keep me out of trouble..
Rules to live by!!

after loading this i realized that its a crappy scan.

I'll fix it when i get a chance.

 

[Bunk1]

haha, that 25 20 had me going WTF for a second...88-9...same thing...

Im definately going to print the good scan if you can make it happen.

 

[boardbysled]

Since we are talking about bolts... Lets talk about how to keep them properly torqued.

First off, everyone knows (or should know:fawkdancesmiley that for a bolt to stay properly torqued, it first has to be properly torqued!:haha:

Locktight, there is different kinds/colors, what are the differences?

Locknuts, different kinds, what kind is better/worse?

Lockwashers, do they work well, on say, suspension parts? And how the hell do they work!?

Safety wiring, when is this appropriate to use? Does it take away from the strength of the fastener?

What about proper washer use?


I know, I know, I'm an ass for trying to bring tech to NWW.:haha:

 

[Damnyankee]

Since we are talking about bolts... Lets talk about how to keep them properly torqued.

First off, everyone knows (or should know:fawkdancesmiley that for a bolt to stay properly torqued, it first has to be properly torqued!:haha:

Locktight, there is different kinds/colors, what are the differences?

Locknuts, different kinds, what kind is better/worse?

Lockwashers, do they work well, on say, suspension parts? And how the hell do they work!?

Safety wiring, when is this appropriate to use? Does it take away from the strength of the fastener?

What about proper washer use?


I know, I know, I'm an ass for trying to bring tech to NWW.:haha:

For what we need and use

242 or 243 is blue, its medium strenght.
277 is red and high strenghth.

I normally use 277. expecially on fly wheels.

Lock nuts, either unilocks or nylocks work well, but theoretically you can only use them 1 time. in most applications i use nylocks. put a little heat on them and the nylon melts and creates a second use (just not too much)

Lock washers do not work UNLESS, they are the 2 piece nord-loks. but they are hard t get and very expensive. (seriously like a couple bucks a piece)

Proper washer use. Yor washers should be as hard or harder than your bolts. There is no reason to use a normal flat washer with a high tensile bolt. the washer will flatten, work loose, the bolt begins to move then you get into fatigue failure...If your not sure.. use hard washers always.

in our application safety wire is not required on anything that i can see, except maybe in some tranny's and engines.

AS for the torque chart i posted above. If anybody wants a good copy PM me your email address. after getting a good JPG scann, its really big and photobucket will not let me upload it. I can send it in a PDF.

 

[Maverick26]

I have been switching all my nylocks out for top lock nuts... way better vibration resistance for suspension and steering.

 

[82toyomud]

Since we are talking about bolts... Lets talk about how to keep them properly torqued.

First off, everyone knows (or should know:fawkdancesmiley that for a bolt to stay properly torqued, it first has to be properly torqued!:haha:

Locktight, there is different kinds/colors, what are the differences?

Locknuts, different kinds, what kind is better/worse?

Lockwashers, do they work well, on say, suspension parts? And how the hell do they work!?

Safety wiring, when is this appropriate to use? Does it take away from the strength of the fastener?

What about proper washer use?


I know, I know, I'm an ass for trying to bring tech to NWW.:haha:

To answer all your questions and many more you have read this http://www.carrollsmith.com/books/nutsbolts.html

Safety wire doesn't take away from the strength of the fastener, and should technically be used in any application where a mechanical locking fastener cannot be used (i.e. nylock).

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Best is to double nut stuff to lock it down.

Then when you buddies steering falls of you can give him one of the many extra double/lock nuts off of your rig and keep wheeling.

 

[Binder]

Safety wire doesn't take away from the strength of the fastener, and should technically be used in any application where a mechanical locking fastener cannot be used (i.e. nylock).

Safety wire is the correct way to do safeties in certain applications. For example a bolt going into a blind hole....Safety wire is not using a coat hanger to hold up your muffler.....I have safety wire in several locations on my buggy.:awesomework:

 

[Binder]

Self locking nuts....Basically there are two types, nylon insert or "nylock" and metalic. Both can be reused if there's still ample resistance while tightening. Nylocks don't work for high heat applications.
When torquing a self locking nut you have to calculate the nuts resistance or "breakaway torque". This is the torque it takes to turn the nut on a bolt before it bottoms out. You add the breakaway torque to the torque spec for what you're working on. Sometimes this isn't important but sometimes it is.:awesomework:

 

[Binder]

While we're on the subject......When torquing a nut and bolt combo always torque the nut not the bolt. Depending on the application the friction of the bolt going through the hole will throw the torque off.
"You can't use a extension with a torque wrench." MYTH! You can use an extension but you can't use a universal. You can use a crowsfoot or simillar offset but you have to calculate the offset and adjust the torque.:beer:

 

[Binder]

You all have to remember that a bolt is NOT a pin, it is a clamp. It is intended to tighten with enough force that the friction between the parts is enough that the parts will not move.
If it bends it was too weak and too loose.
If it shears it was strong enough but too loose.
if it strips, it is not strong enough.

This is not always true. Often times a bolt is under shear stress. Also if a bolt bends or breaks it could just be that the engineering was poor or the assembly was subject to more stress than it was designed for. A bolt stripping could have been cross threaded or overtorqued.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

If its chassis related and not inside a gearbox or engine or axle, I dont torque bolts.

They should be as tight as you can get them. If it breaks off or strips out get another one and try again.

I have found over the years the torque values on things chassis related are generally not tight enough to hold for long.

When assembling my cummins, I put red loctite on everything.

I like to use old toyota bolts to. Also I like OEM ubolts much more than new if in good shape.

If ya cant keep it tight, just replace it with a 84 up toyota driveline bolt, that shittle handle 200+

 

[Bill]

I hate breaking stuff....every rod end I have on my Jeep is a 1", even the tie rod ends so I tighten them with my highlift handle till I can move them anymore.....no more problems

 

[Maverick26]

Self locking nuts....Basically there are two types, nylon insert or "nylock" and metalic. Both can be reused if there's still ample resistance while tightening. Nylocks don't work for high heat applications.
When torquing a self locking nut you have to calculate the nuts resistance or "breakaway torque". This is the torque it takes to turn the nut on a bolt before it bottoms out. You add the breakaway torque to the torque spec for what you're working on. Sometimes this isn't important but sometimes it is.:awesomework:

We call it "run on torque". I know what you are talking about.

 

[Damnyankee]

We call it "run on torque". I know what you are talking about.

torque chart sent.

 

[82toyomud]

This is not always true. Often times a bolt is under shear stress. Also if a bolt bends or breaks it could just be that the engineering was poor or the assembly was subject to more stress than it was designed for. A bolt stripping could have been cross threaded or overtorqued.

I would say 90% of the time a bolt is used in a shear application, and as an engineer I always *try* to make the bolt the designed failure mode. A bolt is much cheaper and easier to fix/replace than a tab or link or rod-end. On my baja car we use Ti bolts that were 1/4" for all suspension and steering components. The bolt had a factor of safety of 7 (double shear) over the tearing tab off, so you can't always make it work.

 

[rchrd989]

"I personally buy and am SURE it's domestic is NUCOR....the bolt head will have an "n" on the head. That bolt is Mfg in either the US or Canada."

A++ for NUCOR. I don't make the bolts but I work at the Nucor Mill in seattle. As you can Imagine all of our standard size bolts we use are Nucor bolts