Brainwashed

crash2 · Oct 17, 2009

super samurai said:
those rims narrower than the rc4d's

The ones I got are the same as the super narrow RC4WD ones I had...

They also have them a tad narrower and wider.

super samurai · Oct 17, 2009

ohh! i didn't realize they had super narrow rc4wd. mine are narower than stock but not as narrow as my pro line 8 shooters. hey is the comp over this early? came in to eat and see your on line already?man i envy your rig!

crash2 · Oct 17, 2009

super samurai said:
ohh! i didn't realize they had super narrow rc4wd. mine are narower than stock but not as narrow as my pro line 8 shooters. hey is the comp over this early? came in to eat and see your on line already?man i envy your rig!

Its tommorow :redneck:

super samurai · Oct 17, 2009

ya just found out, i guess i read wrong, dang we are wheeling tomorow, oh well i will be at the next comp.

crash2 · Oct 31, 2009

So I finally got a wild hair up my butt and decided to make a dedicated space in the shop for these little things. I went and took part of my diff area since I use the big bench for most of it anyways.

crash2 · Oct 31, 2009

At a recent GTG I found I was starting to have excessive stall in the rear motor. I pulled both motors down and found corrosion on the rear amature from salt water. So I polished everything up and tried them out-----same damn thing. So I went and dropped both motors off with doug to turn the armatures and do them up the day before tha last comp. Well they worked great and was able to pull off perfect scores on my first 2 courses. Well on my third course I ended up having the issue again on a nasty side hill--well lets just say it screwed me. From what we figure the salt water did something to the armature. So I went and ordered 2 35t JP warroir motors and threw them in---back to having a rig that runs like glass.

crash2 · Oct 31, 2009

So I have been continuing tweeking the suspenion (shocks more than anything). I did have a very stiff spring rate (duel and tripple springs). I started my removing those and I was finding I was able to climb better and just its basic performance improved. So I then and went with a softer main spring and now have the rig droop about 1/2" (where before they sat maxed at compression) and I could not be happier. I am still fighting my shafty way of thinking....

crash2 · Oct 31, 2009

So one thing I wanted to do was inboard the top of the shocks to help aid in sidehill (makes shock more effective) and also have the shock follow the motion of the suspenion and also help in turning (tires nailing shocks).
But one thing that was in my way was the cover on the gear case. I had read some different methods of replacing the cover--well I just had to do it my own way,lol.
I went and got some very thing alum. and cut my own.

And definatly alot thinner and lighter than the clear cover.

As you can see I opted to only use 2 mouting screws. The third one has to be right on the money and same depth as the metal case or it will rub against the gear that runs against the pinion. Plus I don't think the cover will get hit really due to how thin it is and away from the edge of the case where you get rock rash.

SO I was able to inboard the shocks a total of an inch between the 2 and still had room to spare from the shock body even getting close to making contact with the new cover.

And here they now sit--I am much happier with this setup and will have a chance to try it out tommorow at another GTG..

crash2 · Nov 26, 2009

Something I have been poking at. I have been contiplaying going to a bodyless setup. Now I typicly don't draw stuff out but figured I would give it a shot. So sat down with crayons and paper :redneck:

Here was my first attempt.

Here was after 5 different versions---I hated it :redneck:

crash2 · Nov 26, 2009

Finally came up with a prototype..

crash2 · Nov 26, 2009

And since all I had was alumimum for material I went ahead and made it out of that to see how I liked it.

crash2 · Nov 26, 2009

And here is how it mounts to the chassis.

And here is what I used for hood/roof.

This is just for testing purpose's since it doesn't fit the bodyless rules. No removable side panel and the roof/hood must be made of a solid material.

Once I had a chance to run it at a comp I found I really liked it but the alumn. is just too heavy.

crash2 · Nov 26, 2009

So I orderd a bunch of delrin material.

I came up with a tweeked version of my prototype.

And then cut a new setup out of delrin. The cross supports are 1/4" solid material--I ended up making a jig for my drill press and able to get them perfectly center drilled and tapped at 3mm. As it sits its a hair over 1ouz lighter than the prototype.

crash2 · Nov 26, 2009

I made the roof/hood panels out of polycarbinate(sp) since its easy to work with and I can use the same paint as I do the full bodies. But they turned out pretty decent...

crash2 · Nov 26, 2009

Now for me to make it 100% legal per USRCCA bodyless rules I still have to have a removable side panel. So I went and tore the chassis apart because I had to slightly modify it and also I need to copy it for kyles rig.

But I went and made new removable side panels.

And mounted to the chassis.

Eric · Nov 26, 2009

Looks good Crash. going to have to come up and play some time.

cisco · Nov 27, 2009

Super cool but hard to see out when backing up. :redneck:

crash2 · Dec 5, 2009

Well I have been fighting wanting a better steering setup and have wanted a BTA since day one but its just not an option with this axle. Well after some screwing around I think I finally got what I wanted. I have a little more tweeking to do with it to get it perfect. I have to change the tie rod lengths to get the servo horn more centered in its travel but as it sits now it works pretty darn good.