Building rear steer controls

[84turbotoy]

I was wondering if you could use this valve and have one of those


http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4699&catname=hydraulic

and being it is closed center throw in one of these


http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1556&catname=hydraulic


and this

http://www.servocity.com/html/2_function_joystick__thick_sti.html


instead of going with a log splitter valve like so

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7724&catname=hydraulic


Basically the same money, what is your opinion?

 

[Nuts]

Why not use one of these?

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/motorsport-specific-products/offroad/full-hydraulic-steering?cat=473

 

[84turbotoy]

We talked about those and could still just wondering if the other way would be feasible since I already had the dc valve

 

[TBItoy]

You wouldn't want to use any of the items you posted.

A closed center valve will not work, adding the relief valve is redundant since the ps pump already has a relieve valve, and the joystick you posted is a varible output resitance.

The valve you have is for controlling a reversing hydraulic motor, and the work ports tied to neutral so the motor will "coast" when power is not being applied.



Here is what I am using on my new buggy with a seperate power steering pump for the rear:

Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 10.7 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Tandem Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids, Model# SWH-G02-C6-D12-10 | Power Solenoid| Northern Tool + Equipment

Here is the base plate that you have to bolt the solenoid valve onto, it acts as a manifold, and the solenoid just directs fluid.

Northman Fluid Power Single-Station Subplate — NFPA D03 Pattern, 3/8in. NPT Side Ports, Model# M02-03-S-2 | Control Valve Accessories| Northern Tool + Equipment

AND

Here is the pilot check valve to hold A & B closed

Northman Fluid Power Modular Pilot-Operated Check Valve — 9.3 GPM, 3000 PSI, Ports A & B, Model# MPC02 | Check Valves| Northern Tool + Equipment



Or, if you don't mind having lots of plumbing and have room to mount it, a good ol log splitter valve works just fine, just remove the detent from the "split" side

 

[84turbotoy]

Thats the reply I was looking for Nick, It will be going in Lays buggy

Was trying to figure out a joystick setup to mount beside/ behind the shifter. Haven't taken measurements to see if a manual valve will fit, but I know the joystick would be way better.

 

[TBItoy]

Here is where we was discussin it on Pirate

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1105360-rear-steer-solenoid-valves.html



The solenoid valve like JJ has is a lil smaller than the style I have.


to trigger the valve all you do is power one side or the other to open it.

JJ has a neat setup with push buttons in the floor (like old style dimmer switch buttons). He says he really likes it using his left foot to rear steer.



I'll probably put either a long toggle switch or make a shift knob with 2 buttons or a switch on it jet fighter style

 

[patooyee]

I just installed the larger D03 valve with the check valve sandwiched like TBI posted above and I love it. Its way better than my old smaller one because the old smaller had no real way of truly closeing off ports A & B when not actuated. The spool valve just uses machined metal tolerances to seal off the ports, not o-rings or anything. Therefore, a small amount of leakage is possible and always occurred with my rear end when I was driving straight. The rear end would creep left slowly over time and I would have to correct it manually. It wasn't TERRIBLE but the D03 allowed the check valve to be used which completely closes off the ports and eliminates the issue. It is twice the size and 4x as heavy but it is what I will use on everything in the future.

And yes, I love my foot switches. I don't use my hand switch at all any more. I may even remove it completely.

 

[Nuts]

We talked about those and could still just wondering if the other way would be feasible since I already had the dc valve

I see what you're trying to do now. Didn't have time to read everything earlier.

 

[Elliott]

Can you use a joystick with that valve?I have psc's log splitter style valve and I highly recommend not using that setup, it's to hard to package it right for ease of operation.

 

[TBItoy]

Can you use a joystick with that valve?I have psc's log splitter style valve and I highly recommend not using that setup, it's to hard to package it right for ease of operation.

Yeah you can use a "joystick" with the valve I posted, but:

You need one that is basically a switch (center off, left "on", right "on") rather than one that is a varible output potentiometer.

You can use a large toggle switch as a "joystick"


there is no varible input/output with this style of electric solenoid valve

 

[Elliott]

I just installed the larger D03 valve with the check valve sandwiched like TBI posted above and I love it. Its way better than my old smaller one because the old smaller had no real way of truly closeing off ports A & B when not actuated. The spool valve just uses machined metal tolerances to seal off the ports, not o-rings or anything. Therefore, a small amount of leakage is possible and always occurred with my rear end when I was driving straight. The rear end would creep left slowly over time and I would have to correct it manually. It wasn't TERRIBLE but the D03 allowed the check valve to be used which completely closes off the ports and eliminates the issue. It is twice the size and 4x as heavy but it is what I will use on everything in the future.

And yes, I love my foot switches. I don't use my hand switch at all any more. I may even remove it completely.

So you're not running that Parker valve anymore?I'm asking because I'm fixing to change mine over to electric, I would like to get it right the first time.

 

[84turbotoy]

Can you use a joystick with that valve?I have psc's log splitter style valve and I highly recommend not using that setup, it's to hard to package it right for ease of operation.

Is it because the valve is bulky or extra plumbing or just not a good setup altogether ??? Just trying to help him figure all this out before we roll this axle under it

 

[Elliott]

Where mine is comfortable to me, makes it mount right beside the rear yoke on the transfer case,if the yoke ever spit the driveshaft out I think it would take out the valve.If you go electric you can mount the stuff where ever you want. My problem I have right now is getting the steering as fast as I want it, I run dual krc's with the 3.7 gpm valves in them with PSC's 3" Rockwell rams.KRC said to fill a ram that size fast enough would take over 5 gpm's a minute.So it looks like out of the original 2,500 kit that was bought for this thing I am fixing to only be running psc's orbital and steering column.I think I'm going to go down to a 2.5" bore cylinder to speed mine up but I am wanting to make sure I get the right rear valve to have the right flow to make it quick enough.

 

[patooyee]

So you're not running that Parker valve anymore?I'm asking because I'm fixing to change mine over to electric, I would like to get it right the first time.

No, the leak got so bad that I couldn't drive straight anymore. It had to be replaced and I replaced it with the D03. I much prefer the D03 w/check valves over the smaller parker valve.

 

[Elliott]

Anyway you took pictures of your setup before you installed it

 

[patooyee]

Anyway you took pictures of your setup before you installed it

No. I could possibly get you some still though. What are you looking for exactly?

 

[Elliott]

How bulky is it, Trying to get my head around where I could put it and have it in a safe spot.

 

[patooyee]

Pretty bulky, to be honest. Its stout as hell though. I still have my old valve. I'll try to snap a pic of it compared to the new for you tomorrow.