I hear everyone say angle iron frame trailers suck(i will be towing 85 runner), what differences are there to make the c-channel frame so much better. Basically what makes it worth spending the extra cash to get the c-channel. There is quite a big price difference, i have never heard why they are SOOO much better???
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
C-channel and Angle iron Trailer frames??
- Thread starter HOrunner
- Start date
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
With age, the C channels remain straight and true, but some of the angle trailers start to sag and bend. My trailer has been used and abused, and remains as tight today as it was 15 years ago. Also, get pressure treated lumber (extra $, also) as it'll last nearly 20 years before you NEED to replace it. Regular decking (untreated 2x10s) won't last a third that long.
I've used and abused my trailer for 8 years now. Bought it brand new in CA from AZ-TECK trailers.
Its an angle iron built trailer with the 1 ft sides on it. Not technically a car trailer (Classified as a utility trailer), But I've hauled a 1 ton truck with a 12 ft flatbed on it over 75 miles. Used it for 2 years as a scrap hauler trailer, grossing over 15K on the combo. Probably carried 250 vehicles with it, along with 3 interstate moves, multiple household loads, garbage.....ect.
My point is this- Yes the angle iron trailers are not as heavy duty as the channel iron trailers. But if you get a good designed one, it can do exactly what you want to, and its a LOT less cash outlay (I paid $850 out the door for mine). other than greasing it twice a year, I've put 1 set of tires on it. thats it until recently.
Mine will be carrying my Jeep around for the next couple years......
Its an angle iron built trailer with the 1 ft sides on it. Not technically a car trailer (Classified as a utility trailer), But I've hauled a 1 ton truck with a 12 ft flatbed on it over 75 miles. Used it for 2 years as a scrap hauler trailer, grossing over 15K on the combo. Probably carried 250 vehicles with it, along with 3 interstate moves, multiple household loads, garbage.....ect.
My point is this- Yes the angle iron trailers are not as heavy duty as the channel iron trailers. But if you get a good designed one, it can do exactly what you want to, and its a LOT less cash outlay (I paid $850 out the door for mine). other than greasing it twice a year, I've put 1 set of tires on it. thats it until recently.
Mine will be carrying my Jeep around for the next couple years......
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Does your have brakes?
Washington Code requires brakes on both alxes of all dual axled trailers. Sounds like yours was bought out of state.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
$850 is a SCREAMIN' good price for a double axled, electric braked trailer!
Mine cost twice that.
I absolutely love my trailer. When I had it built, I shortened the deck to 12.5 (instead of 16) as it's alot more manuverable in small parking area (like my house). It'll still fit a standard truck, suburban, 15 passanger dodge van, etc. It's C channeled. With 4 inch drop axles to keep the load low. IF I were to do it over, the only change I'd do, is replace the 3500 (each) axles (5 on 4.5 bolt pattern) for the heavier 7000 axles and the standard truck tires (8 lug). I think the bigger bearings and brakes on the heavier axle AND the higher weight carrying capacity of the tires are worth the upgrade. As it is right now, when I carry a Suburban, I'm over capacity on my tire's load rating (about 2100 each).
BTW, my trailer weighs in at 1700 empty.
Mine cost twice that.
I absolutely love my trailer. When I had it built, I shortened the deck to 12.5 (instead of 16) as it's alot more manuverable in small parking area (like my house). It'll still fit a standard truck, suburban, 15 passanger dodge van, etc. It's C channeled. With 4 inch drop axles to keep the load low. IF I were to do it over, the only change I'd do, is replace the 3500 (each) axles (5 on 4.5 bolt pattern) for the heavier 7000 axles and the standard truck tires (8 lug). I think the bigger bearings and brakes on the heavier axle AND the higher weight carrying capacity of the tires are worth the upgrade. As it is right now, when I carry a Suburban, I'm over capacity on my tire's load rating (about 2100 each).
BTW, my trailer weighs in at 1700 empty.
how do you carry a suburban on a 12' trailer? I have just enough deck space to load a full size Ford truck end to end on my 16' deck.
I measured my CJ and figured I'd need a 12' deck just for that!
this one was a little wide......:haha:
I measured my CJ and figured I'd need a 12' deck just for that!
this one was a little wide......:haha:
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TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Very carefully :haha:
Originally, the trailer was only going to be 12' even. But when I measured my truck wheelbase, I found it was 12'+ ever sooooo slightly. So I added 6" to the trailer, and it's 12'6". That'll fit the wheelbase, just barely, of a Suburban or standard wheelbase longbed truck (not extra cabs). It realllllly hangs off the back of the trailer, and the front tires are just about to fall off the front. However, because the engine is so far forward, the trailer ballances out OK, and it tows fine. The truck doesn't fit on the trailer, but the wheelbase does.
Also, since I don't have railings, I can move the load further forward than you can. Effectively, giving me a longer trailer AND shifting weight forwards to conteract the amount overhanging off the back.
edit -- the only problem I've had with towing 'burbs, is after I've stripped them out and the motor, tranny, etc is pulled, then towing to the car crusher, is, well, dangerous. Then the weight distribution is way off, and I can't go faster than city speeds safely. Thankfully, it's very close to my house.
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