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Capt Saveahoe

Hip

Hip

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Mar 28, 2006
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ok 4.3 vortec chevy in a 94 blazer, W series CPI system.

was running fine then all of a sudden poping and sputtering at idle and above. if ya can get it to pass idle runs fast but surges up and down.

verified all the easy stuff. hoses and everything appear fine.

fuel pressure test shows 60 psi. does not drop drastically at all.

when started fuel pressure remains high untill you get past the idle then it drops some to like 80ish as vacuum has an affect.

switched out the MAP.

switched out the throttle position senser.

WTF?

Going to the store to buy a scan tool to read the codes if there are any?

Help me save the Hoe:cool:
 
OBD 2 wasn't mandatory until 1996, so I'm guessing you've got an OBD1 system (maybe OBD 1.5)

What this means, is you should be able to pull codes by inserting a bent paper clip into the plug. It's really easy. Do some internet reading. You don't need to beg/borrow/buy a scanner

IF I can find a quick link for instructions, I'll post 'em up

For vehicles made after 1996, retrieving the codes of the check engine light in your dash panel is simple. All you need to do is find your diagnostic connector located under the dash by the driver side. You can then hook up a scanner and the codes will be displayed for you. If you don't have any scanner like most drivers, you can bring your vehicle to any local automotive parts store and they will usually scan the codes FREE for you. However, for vehicles made on or before 1995, there is only one cheap way to get it: You do it yourself!
On board diagnostic (OBD) was designed on vehicles equipped with electronic fuel injection so you can generally retrieve the codes yourself. No need buying a scanner or running to any parts stores to check the engine light. This system is called obd1 and applies to most vehicles made before 1995 for domestics and 1993 on imports. In this article, I will discuss the methods used by domestic

on how to check the engine light codes in their cars and .
For GM domestic vehicles made before 1995, the diagnostic connector is located under the dash panel by the driver side. To get the check engine codes to flash in your dash panel, use a jumper wire or a paper clip and connect terminals A and B of the diagnostic connector. Turn your ignition key on with engine off and the codes should start to blink. All codes should start with code 12 which is one long flash followed by 2 short flashes. This code 12 means the diagnostic system is normal and will repeat itself continuously if there are no trouble codes. Otherwise, code 12 will flash 3 times before flashing the fault codes​
Click to expand...
​
 
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my friends rig did this and it turned out to be a ground on the wiring harness. found out the hard way as he bought a new motor and it ran the same!
 
codes are 12 means computer is talking
22

34

bunch o bunch o stuff i already swapped out.

im gonna chack timing to see if it jumped a tooth on the chain, runs like its out of time or not getting enough fuel?

any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hip.. Unbolt the EGR and turn it upside down---remove the chunk of carbon from the pintle. Go to the parts store and get an EGR valve with the wire mesh screen and throw it in..
 
crash said:
Hip.. Unbolt the EGR and turn it upside down---remove the chunk of carbon from the pintle. Go to the parts store and get an EGR valve GASKET with the wire mesh screen and throw it in..
Click to expand...


Fixed!!!:fawkdancesmiley:
X2, pull the EGR, you'll likely see the pintle stuck wide open from a chunk of carbon...
 
thanks guys im on it this morning.

ill see if i can talk a boob shot out of the girl for fixin her car.:D
 
Ohm test the plug wires? I learned a little about this type of stuff when mine was not running. I dont have any EGR stuff on mine so I would check that on yours too.
 
ok so its not the egr. gasket had screen and valve was clean. swapped it out anyways still no worky.

started looking at timing and there are two fawking timing marks? quite a distance apart? neither are marked, neither line up with number one plug? or the 180 out plug.

im thinking timing jumped a tooth on the chain.

why in the fawk are there "two" timing marks on the harmonic balancer?

which one is correct?
 
Did you remember to disconnect the timing plug when you checked it?
I left my damn book at the shop so I'm not much help but I was wondering the same thing about the marks on mine. When I dropped the dist in I just rolled it up on TDC and marked the balancer with a paint stick.
 
if i get that far where is the plug. i was kinda looking for it and didnt see anything obvious. my book mentions it but does not explaine where it is?
 
waiting for some help so i can feel the top when someone turns the motor slowly with a wrench. then go from there.

im pretty sure it jumped.
 
think i found it inside by the glove box, same as a 94 suburban....

well after much messing with it i dont think it jumpoed time. i did a compression test and found two plugs crapped up solid with carbon. two right next to each other. so if i can get a new egr gasket ill reassemble everything and try it again.

im thinking two out of six not firing would do it.

compression had 5 at 150 and one at 125 the one that had the worst crapped up plug was the lowest.

so if i can get to run i can reset the timing.
 

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