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Coilover Tech

zukIzzy said:
I know right? I mean you should not have to even touch them at that price they should make the ride like a pillow right out of the box. I mean seriously what other precision instrument would you have to also tune to operate correctly for your style and conditions. PPFFFT a guitar, violin, piano, engine.... lets get serious white rockets for the win.

:stir: Interwebs are fun

Welcome to Hardline!

Glad I have fox Coilovers and bumps. I bet you just doing work on Fox will push people to buy them!
 
lowbudgetjunk said:
Welcome to the thread and to Hardline.

See it I got this. As long as I have Fox shocks, you are still doing shim stacks by mail? Still doing testing sessions too?

Thanks been a while since I came in here. I stopped doing shims by mail a while ago I had guys install them incorrectly and get pissed that it did not work. Finally decided it was not worth the hassle for the small profit. Chris may or may not be willing to try it and I know shipping ads up fast but don't know another way of doing it that makes it work. I try to get back east as much as I can I was in WV twice,VA,AR,WI, IN twice. Only so much I can do with my travel schedule. I tune for Fox every week several days a week usually plus race support so my time will be limited a lot now. Chris will travel if it is worth it I am sure but this year it was break even at best. Open to suggestions but need to make enough to make it worth his time.

Thanks for the support if we can help the email is above.
 
NTIDWELL said:
This is why I like Wayne sent him a text about this thread 10 min later he responds can't beat his customer service. If anyone would like to do a tune day I'd love to split/divide up cost to have him come out. I ended up having to work for strugis and winrock when he was doing tuning there

Anyone want a brand new set of 2-14, 2-16 2.5 triple bypass kings, and 2-14, 2-16 2.0 king emos? I'll go in with you on a tune session man, we both have the same driving style.
 
Hi folks, Chris checking in.

Wayne has moved on to Fox and I am running the show around here. Alltech services and tunes all major brands, so need getting rid of your non-fox shocks. We can make them work. While racing is where Alltech make its mark on the rock sport community we work with a lot of guys who are weekend warriors be it their buggy or DD. Please do not be intimidated or hesitate to give us a call.

Chris, call me and we can discuss your situation that way you can #keepthedietpepsiinthecan on the trail.
951-675-8224
 
Chris and Wayne, I have a question, and I hope to clarify it in this thread, so others can use you guys' answers to help them in the future.

After reading Wayne's Spring thread on pirate several times, and somewhat understanding it,

I have done some research and measuring on the rear of my YJ and have found, I have the wrong springs. My current springs are too stiff and too short.

Currently I am set up with 7.125" up travel on 14" coilovers. I have - 0.125" preload to achieve my desired ride height, with a 12" 170 lb upper spring over a 14" 250 lb lower spring.

The springs are compressed 6.875".

(Spring compression + preload) * initial rate = Load supported at shock

[6.875 + (-.125)] * 101.19 = 683 lbs at the shock.

To double check, I measured each spring indivually. The 170 lb upper is compressed 4.75", and the 250 lb lower compressed 3". Using above formula:

(4.75 - .125) * 170 = 786 lbs at shock
(3 - .125) * 250 = 718 lbs at shock

adding 2" desired preload to my current travel position, to attempt to find the new correct initial spring rate I find 3 possible new initial rates, and the average of the 3:

786 / 8.875 = 88.5 lbs / in new initial rate
718 / 8.875 = 80.9 lbs / in new initial rate
683 / 8.875 = 76.9 lbs / in new initial rate

and the average of 82.1 new initial rate.

Why the 100 lb difference in calculated weight at the shock? Is this due to spring fatigue? The Coilovers have been ran without crossover rings since 2009, as instructed by vendor. Which weight at the shock should I use to calculate the new desired rate to order my new springs?

Overall .125" preload will cover the 10 lb difference between the spread. But what about choosing the right springs for a good step up when the slider hits the newly installed crossover ring, and rate increases to the lower spring only? You have mentioned to have the springs within 100lbs of each other if possible.

Is it also a good idea, if possible, to have the initial rate, and the lower spring rate within 100lbs?

In my scenario, I am choosing between commonly available PAC 2.5" springs:

76.9 = 125 / 200
77.8 = 140 / 175
78.8 = 130 / 200
80.4 = 125 / 225
80.8 = 150 / 175
82.4 = 140 / 200
82.4 = 130 / 225
84.9 = 165 / 175
85.7 = 150 / 200
86.3 = 140 / 225
87.5 = 175 / 175

How should I choose which springs to order? :dunno:

I want to ditch the useless triple rate hardware, run a 14" upper spring, 16" lower spring, and start with the Xover ring 2" above the slider at ride height. This is a semi-hardcore wanna be buggy trail jeep.

I do have the 12" 170s which are too short, the 14" 250s which are too heavy, and a set of 14" 150s off of KarateJosh's buggy.
 
being within 100#s on the math does not concern me. rarely does the math add up exact and if it does i get concerned. combined rate math is just to double check the single rate math, so do not include it in your averages. preload does not figure into the load calculations, so do not worry about that. 150/200 is what i would suggest, what brand of shocks are you running?

- the person reading the tape
- the slider is extra sticky on one side
- you just got out of the rig and its leaning
- the suspension is bound up
 
mobil1syn said:
being within 100#s on the math does not concern me. rarely does the math add up exact and if it does i get concerned. combined rate math is just to double check the single rate math, so do not include it in your averages. preload does not figure into the load calculations, so do not worry about that. 150/200 is what i would suggest, what brand of shocks are you running?

- the person reading the tape
- the slider is extra sticky on one side
- you just got out of the rig and its leaning
- the suspension is bound up


Suspension not bound up, not leaning, .125" difference from left to right side.

Email headed your way and thanks for clarifying.
 
for the readers at home.

Sway-a-away shocks run shorter than other brands so the normal rule of top spring is the length of travel and lower spring two inches longer doesnt work. so the top spring is two inches shorter than the travel and the lower two inches longer. this keeps the spring on the shock on the shock and helps prevent it from eating the bottom of the shocks.
 
Looking to change the springs on my jeep, I'd like to get away from the tender springs. Right now it has a 5.5"x90lb, 10"x200lb, 16"x350lb. With 3" of preload there is roughly 8" of shaft showing. King 2.5 reservoir 16" travel. It has 14" 2.0 king emulsions in the rear. Don't have those rates handy though.. Which would benefit more having the 2.5s in the front or rear?
 
Re: Re: Coilover Tech

Jduck said:
Looking to change the springs on my jeep, I'd like to get away from the tender springs. Right now it has a 5.5"x90lb, 10"x200lb, 16"x350lb. With 3" of preload there is roughly 8" of shaft showing. King 2.5 reservoir 16" travel. It has 14" 2.0 king emulsions in the rear. Don't have those rates handy though.. Which would benefit more having the 2.5s in the front or rear?
Rear does more work than the front, right? Hence the reason for trailing arms and less leading arms we see, correct?
 
I won't lie. I haven't had time to get on hl much lately but I tried to get up on this thread and there are some retards that think they know what they are talking about on this forum. My head hurts. :****:
 
Re: Re: Coilover Tech

Mortalis5509 said:
Rear does more work than the front, right? Hence the reason for trailing arms and less leading arms we see, correct?

I always assumed they were used to get more wheel travel ???
 
Re: Re: Coilover Tech

Jduck said:
Looking to change the springs on my jeep, I'd like to get away from the tender springs. Right now it has a 5.5"x90lb, 10"x200lb, 16"x350lb. With 3" of preload there is roughly 8" of shaft showing. King 2.5 reservoir 16" travel. It has 14" 2.0 king emulsions in the rear. Don't have those rates handy though.. Which would benefit more having the 2.5s in the front or rear?
Redneck guess here, duh the front that's where the weight is.

I think if I had them I'd have the 2.5s on the front. I don't really think one axle works harder than the other unless you're riding around popping wheelies.
 
Re: Re: Re: Coilover Tech

Jduck said:
I always assumed they were used to get more wheel travel ???
That was a piss poor way of really explaining what I was thinking. In 2x or 4x I have always noticed the rear shocks are warmer including on the street. Even for the go fast stuff, wayne is telling me 2.0(c/o)/2.5(bypass) for the front and then 2.0/3.0 for the rear.
 
If you're at the point where you are worried about high speed performance of a 2.0 you should be planning to get a 2.5 to replace it .... or a set of bypasses to accompany it.
 
kmcminn said:
Can anyone tell me if PAC Spring Rates are engraved or stamped on the spring anywhere. The Sharpe on the stickers are long gone.

I have a brand-new one in the barn and I can't find anything but the sticker. I had some old blue springs that had them engraved on the top flat section where the coil ends. But, the powder was worn off and that was only way to see it.
 
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