Dana 60 - 70 shafts?

Maverick26 · Sep 19, 2011

I got a few questions before I start building my new rear axle. I have a Dana 70 and a Dana 60 and I would like to use as much parts of both as I can. My idea is, use the 60 housing, buy a dana 60 35 spline spool but can I use the 35 spline 70 shafts?

The 60 had 30 spline shafts in it when I got it. If I can make it better I would like to. I looked on Randy's website and they sell 35 spline 60 shafts but no where does it say the dia of the shaft. The 30 splines and 35 splines are way different dia along with 5 more slines. What can I do with this pile of parts?

whatthe? · Sep 19, 2011

What about using the 70 and just trimming the bottom of the housing for extra clearance? Weld the spiders and sell the 60 for some extra cash. Just an idea.

benw1 · Sep 19, 2011

Yes, it will work as long as the bolt pattern on the flange is the same on both axles.

Corey Y · Sep 19, 2011

The 60/70 shaft length is probably different. Stock 70 shafts neck down and cannot be shortened. The 60 spindles might need to be drilled out for the 1.5" dia. shafts.

Maverick26 · Sep 19, 2011

It says on Randy's that the Yukon rear shafts will fit 60, 70, and 80. The flanges are the same BP. Im going to narrow the 60 housing anyway so If I cant cut down the 70 shafts I guess ill be buying some Yukons 35 spline. Im assuming if I get a 35 spline spool everything will fit.

CHOP SHOP · Sep 19, 2011

If you have an extra front inner shaft hanging around then do this,

Remove one rear 30 spline axle shaft. Then try to slide the 35 spline front inner thru the spindle. If it does not fit then you will need to bore the spindles.

To get around boring the spindles just use the 70 tube ends and outers on the 60 housing when ya narrow it and then ya dont have to bore the spindles and make them thin.

BUILTnotBOT · Sep 19, 2011

CHOP SHOP said:
Remove one rear 30 spline axle shaft. Then try to slide the 35 spline front inner thru the spindle. If it does not fit then you will need to bore the spindles.

To get around boring the spindles just use the 70 tube ends and outers on the 60 housing when ya narrow it and then ya dont have to bore the spindles and make them thin.

X2

If your already in the process of narrowing the rr axle, than I totally agree:beer:. But with the stock 60 housing and 30spline shaft you will need to bore the spindles....

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-157258-dana-60-spindle-boring-tool.html

Have fun chucking that up in a 1/2" drill :haha::haha:

A buddy of mine piecing togethor his rr 60 for really cheap and this was one of the options to get those 35splines to fit. You can pickup 35spline open carrier 60s from semi float 60s ($30 at pickapart) in early 80s fords than use the 35spline shafts from dana70s ($20 for both!), open up the spindles and you have a strong cheap rr 60...

But i will always be biased towards the shaved 14bolt.... just makes sense to me:redneck:

JOOP · Sep 19, 2011

The difference from the Dana 60- 70 housing isn't much. Yeh the housing itself is beefier and slightly bigger but the actual ground clearance is only about 1/2" from the bottom of the tube to the bottom of the housing. JFYI

Corey Y · Sep 19, 2011

BUILTnotBOT said:
But i will always be biased towards the shaved 14bolt.... just makes sense to me:redneck:

The FF14 bolt is stronger all around then a D-70.

Maverick26 · Sep 20, 2011

Lots of great info guys... thanks a lot.

My plan is to retube both my front and rear 60s with 1/4" wall tube, then do the 70 spindles on the rear, spydertrax knuckles on the front. I think I am going to go with ARB in the front and spool in the rear. Staying with the 4.88s that I have now. I am 67" WMS right now cause they are dodge axles, so I think I will bring them down to 63", IIRC that is what most folks run width wise?

My goal is to shave as much weight as I can on my rig... personal challenge of mine with everything I do. Thanks for the help, Im sure I will have more questions. I will update with pics when I start my project in a few weeks.

zukkev · Sep 20, 2011

Why would you want to take away the strength by going .250wall tube on the front? Or the rear for that matter??? I see you want to save weight, And I suppose if you truss 'em they'll be ok...I like the stance your rig's got at 67" WMS....but hey, it's your rig!!!! :redneck:

BUILTnotBOT · Sep 20, 2011

zukkev said:
I like the stance your rig's got at 67" WMS....but hey, it's your rig!!!! :redneck:

I love the look and handling of the fullwidth WMS but squeezing through the trees and tight spots can really become lame, especially when your following narrow rigs on the trail. I like the idea of 63" wms, thats what ill be sittin at when i finally get around to narrowing my axles....

Maverick26 · Sep 21, 2011

67" is nice for some things but it is just a little to wide for around here. I think I can gain some nimbleness if I cut it down a little. As for the .250 wall tube, it is plenty strong, most KOH guys are not running anything thicker. Im still doing research but that is the way I think I will go.

Bunk1 · Sep 21, 2011

Will your tires be rubbing on everything at 63 wms? Im 65. Wanna sell the 70 complete?

Maverick26 · Sep 21, 2011

Bunk said:
Will your tires be rubbing on everything at 63 wms? Im 65. Wanna sell the 70 complete?

Im not sure, 63" would put me 2.5" narrower on each side then I am now. 65" would put me only 1.5" narrower. I could always inbd my lowers a little and shocks if I need to. Widest point of the chassis is 54" so it will still be 4.5" wider then the tube. Ill let you know about the 70. If I can get 35 spline shafts to fit in the 60 spindles then ill sell it complete.

I dont know... maybe Im high and should not even waist the time or money on a few inches.

tomsbrokeagain · Sep 21, 2011

If you are trying to save weight I would not go for ff hubs in the rear.

Most .250 wall axles at KOH also are larger dia like 3.5 to 4.

Maverick26 · Sep 22, 2011

Well ****... I dont want to go that far... Hell I might not even take the time to retube these axles. I may just cut them down and call it good. Im really just trying to learn as much as I can before I start. The biggest reason for the rebuild of my rig is when I built it in the first place I didnt know what I know now. Anyway...

Once I start taking it apart I will start to figure out what way I want to go with this project. I know I want to stay 8 lug and FF, and I want to run 35 spline.