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Dana 60 spindle boring tool rental.

truckbroke

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
856
Location
Sylvester,GA
Anybody got a Dana 60 spindle boring tool they want to rent? Don't need it right this very second but, just wanting to go ahead and ask.
 
Re:

Just a heads up. The replacement bits are pricey if/when you burn one up.
I have the tool but it's one of those "hate to..." type of tools.
 
Rokcrler said:
Just a heads up. The replacement bits are pricey if/when you burn one up.
I have the tool but it's one of those "hate to..." type of tools.

Yeah I understand that completely. I kinda figured that bit was the catch 22.
 
I bought one in Amazon, used it, then returned it. Return shipping was like $10, way cheaper than ecgs. Mine also got messed from the fluid making the shavings get caught in between the shaft and bushing thing.

If I did it again I'd jack up whatever side you are working on so everything flows away from it. I ended up doing mine with a drill and hole saws after the tool messed up.
 
Lol.. yeah I been in the air. I got a TBI 350 and really just don't see it ever having enough power to break a 60 with 35 spline shafts. I've broke the Yukon 30s a few times already. No I didn't build this rig or it would have never of had this in it.
 
truckbroke said:
Lol.. yeah I been in the air. I got a TBI 350 and really just don't see it ever having enough power to break a 60 with 35 spline shafts. I've broke the Yukon 30s a few times already. No I didn't build this rig or it would have never of had this in it.
Right, but I think the main thought it is generally cheaper to put a 14 in there or something rather than bore, buy good shafts, still have a 60 with a smaller pinion shaft (and everything really) A blingin ass truss and link mounts or a set of deep gears and good locker (you're changing locker going from 30 to 35, might just get side gears) is the only reason I can think of for not swapping now. If you do have good guts in the 60, they can be moved to a 60 front as long as you can swap side gears, so there is still value there
 
I'm running a 60 rear with 31 spline factory axles, but I have a weak 4 banger in front of it.
 
blacksheep10 said:
Right, but I think the main thought it is generally cheaper to put a 14 in there or something rather than bore, buy good shafts, still have a 60 with a smaller pinion shaft (and everything really) A blingin ass truss and link mounts or a set of deep gears and good locker (you're changing locker going from 30 to 35, might just get side gears) is the only reason I can think of for not swapping now. If you do have good guts in the 60, they can be moved to a 60 front as long as you can swap side gears, so there is still value there

Yeah I agree completely. Hell I`ve already got a new BTF truss setup and a detroit for a 14 bolt to. Probably better off to say hell with it and run a pig.
 
We just did the full shave on my buddies 14 bolt and I was really surprised at how easy it really is to be honest. I been meaning to pull tape on my 60 and his shaved 14 bolt. We both run 43s and the same width wheels. I'd just make sure the air pressure was the same and really see how much a shaved 14 bolt beats a 60 for clearance.
 
If u have someone with a 4 jaw lathe that it will fit in do it that way that's how I do 2.5 rocks for 2" shafts and 60s for 35 spline
 
truckbroke said:
We just did the full shave on my buddies 14 bolt and I was really surprised at how easy it really is to be honest. I been meaning to pull tape on my 60 and his shaved 14 bolt. We both run 43s and the same width wheels. I'd just make sure the air pressure was the same and really see how much a shaved 14 bolt beats a 60 for clearance.
quite a bit, when i made the 14b shave kit, I was getting right at 2" off the 14 when ring was shaved a bit. Its over an inch more than a 60 stock.
 
Damn. I really didn't think it would be that much if anymore than a 60. That's one reason I was wanting to hang on to the 60. I'm definitely going to measure them this weekend. I looked around alot and any comparisons I found always had some variable that didn't make the measurement legit. Like different size tires wheels etc. These two rigs have same tires and wheels so I'll match the air pressure and pull tape for a solid measurement. If it beats my 60 I'm definitely going to the shaved 14.
 
You can shave a 60 also :****:


I think I'd only run a 60 rear in a Zuki or Toyota, just so I could run 7.17 gears.

Pretty much zero reason to run a 60 rear if you are running 5.38 or less gears
 
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