Torrance
Well-Known Member
anyone have any feedback on the offroad kits for edelbrock carbs (the spring loaded needles/seats). its on my sb327. i just bought one, because im sick of trying to deal with my carb when off camber.
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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
edelbrock offroad kit ?
- Thread starter Torrance
- Start date
ceb0217
Well-Known Member
it helps but its not a fix all.
hlb3
Zombie Hunter
There was a write up years ago on I think Pirate about modding an Edelbrock for off-road use. There are passages that run across the the carb that connect the 2 fuel bowls, he wedged some vacuum line in the passages to block them and fixed them inplace with some RTV I think, so when you are off camber the fuel stays in it's own fuel bowl instead of all rushing to one side and flooding out the carb. I did it to mine along with the needles and seats and it was a night and day difference, it didn't totally fix the problem, but it was about the best you can possibly make one perform off-road.
Torrance
Well-Known Member
thanks for the input. i bought the kit from jegs off ebay for like $18. now i feel better for good experiences. should help alot then. thanks
I thaught about doing this exact same thing with the tubing but wasn't shure if it would cause other problems. I mite try that then. As for the needle and seats what did you change it to? If im not mistaken my needles already have springs on them? I would love to learn more about that.:corn: My carb dose ok but if I could make it better sign me up.:awesomework:
Torrance
Well-Known Member
the ad i read said will fit all performer and avs edelbrock carbs.
Torrance
Well-Known Member
kinda wanna do a cummins 4bt swap. then carb will be a bad word.
uke:Big_MARK
Well-Known Member
The only fix for Carb issues is Fuel Injection, everything else only make slight improvements, but you will stiil have that "one angle" where the **** floods out.
I guess that could be considered part of the challenge!
LOL
It get friggin old after a while though....
I guess that could be considered part of the challenge!
LOL
It get friggin old after a while though....
Dear group;
To start off, Edelbrock carbs are nothing more than fancy Carter/Rochester carburetors. The basic design has been around for decades and is a very dependable and troublefree one. There is nothing mysterious about a carburetor and the only people who state that the only way to eliminate fuel bowl flooding is to swap out the carb/carbs with an EFI obviously do not have a solid grasp of carburetor theory.
Obviously, carburetors were not designed to be used on vehicles that would be utilized at severe angels. Carburetor fuel pumps are also low volume and low pressure affairs. The fuel pressure should NEVER exceed 7 PSI or the pressure will overtake the float needle(s) and thus allow too much fuel to enter the bowl. This is something to keep in mind for a bit later in the discussion.
My personal solution to the problem of fuel bowl flooding is to reduce the volume capacity of the fuel bowl(s). Originally, I would whittle out some fuel bowl volume reducers from a chunk of balsa wood then shellac it with fuel proof varnish so they would not become fuel logged.
Lately I've built fuel bowl fillers from various 2 part fuel proof resins and they work better than the balsa ones. Of course, one of the downsides to this fix is that the fuel bowl now has a reduced volume which means that the fuel pump can no longer keep up with the engine's fuel demands in certainsituations such as prolonged acceleration situations.
Again, my solution for this is use a higher volume fuel pump, but NOT a high PRESSURE fuel pump. A high pressure fuel pump will only make things worse, because Bernoulli's Principle tells us that as pressure increases, volume therefore decreases (this is a bad thang) and as volume increases, pressure likewise decreases (this is a good thang).
A good aftermarket high volume fuel pump will generally resolve that issue. AFAIK, Carter still makes a very good and inexpensive high volume mechanical fuel pump and some are even rebuildable, which is more gooder.
Your friend;
LAMAR
i was totaly thinking the same thing. im running a high volume edelbrock electric pump with a nice edelbrock regulator. i found that when i lowered my fuel bowls down to like 25 35 percent it made a big diferance and then i turned my fuel presure down to 5 from 7 but i might try lower. i want to see how these new float needels do. all thing considered it is doing a lot better than before. the little things do help. besides you have to crawl before you can walk right.....:redneck:
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Might wanna stick the hose in sideways, cuz otherwise the fuel will still get thru the middle of the hose, unless you plugged it with somethin'....:eeek:
Dear Oil Can;
Bear in mind that the fuel pump has but one purpose only, which is to transfer fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor's bowl(s). Bernoulli's Principle is custom tailored towards carburetion, my friend.
If you have a high volume adjustable pump, lower the pressure in order to increase the volume output. Also, another ol' indian trick of ours was to increase the diameter of everything going from the pump to the carb's bowl(s). And this means EVERYTHING.
For example, most stock carbs use 3/8" fuel lines. We would increase the diameter to 1/2" and not only the lines and hoses, but the fittings, etc. The diameter of everything needs to be increased, because if there is a single restriction somewhere between the pump and fuel bowl(s) then the resulting volume would not be increased.
I would very carefully ream out the carb's fuel fittings and re-tap them to accept 1/2" fittings along with the outlet fitting on the fuel pump. It can be a PITA but it works.
Most people don't realize this, but carburetors do NOT rely on pressure in order to function. The only pressure that is required in order for a carb to function properly is an unrestricted source of ambient air pressure. And that's the total extent of how pressure plays a part in a carb's function, my friend.
Since a carburetor is a *demand* type of component, instead of pressure, it relies on the vacuum from the engine's intake in order to function properly. It's from this vacuum source that fuel is drawn through the carburetor's passages and mixes with the onrushing air in order to send a fuel/air charge into the engine's cylinders.
Contrary to popular belief, electronic fuel injection systems are NOT cheaper, nor are they more reliable, nor are they easier to troubleshoot and/or repair. In fact, the ONLY advantage that an EFI system has over a carbureted one is the fact that the fuel/air charge can be more precisely regulated. This in turn means lower exhaust emissions and a slight increase in fuel economy.
Also, EFI can maintain this very precise fuel/air metering for extended periods of use and over a wide range of external pressures with virtually no adjustments, unlike carburetors, which are affected by barometric pressure and altitude.
Another consideration that most offroaders fail to realize is that when they run a vehicle at a severe angle, they are in fact destroying the engine. If the engine utilizes a wet sumped oiling system, when it is subjected to any severe operating angle, it's been taxed severely. If the oil pump pickup becomes exposed to air, cavitation occurs and contrary to popular belief, it takes some time for the pump to recover, usually around 15 to 30 seconds but sometimes as long as 1 minute.
By itself, this situation is not so bad, however all of the oil which SHOULD be covering the oil pump pickup screen is not where it's supposed to be. This means the oil has to be SOMEWHERE! And that means the oil is now flooding the crankshaft.
Since the crankshaft has a mass and is rotating, this means that it is inducing a gravitational effect on everything surrounding it, including the engine's oil. The oil tends to cling to the crankshaft and during this time it starts to foam as it becomes mixed with air.
After a few seconds of this treatment, the oil begins to look like tan colored cotton candy surrounding the periphery of the spinning crankshaft. This increases the mass imposed upon the crankshaft, because now it is not only is the engine producing power to spin the weight of the crankshaft, it also has to produce power to spin the weight of the engine's oil supply as well.
Combining the lack of lubricating oil in an engine with the increased demands placed upon said engine by the oil rotating about the engine's crank, this will usually spell BREAKAGE!
And that's pretty much what happens, my friend. Therefore, before you attempt to modify your carb to the point where it can operate upside-down it might behoove you to consider the other ramifications beforehand.
Your friend;
LAMAR
Bear in mind that the fuel pump has but one purpose only, which is to transfer fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor's bowl(s). Bernoulli's Principle is custom tailored towards carburetion, my friend.
If you have a high volume adjustable pump, lower the pressure in order to increase the volume output. Also, another ol' indian trick of ours was to increase the diameter of everything going from the pump to the carb's bowl(s). And this means EVERYTHING.
For example, most stock carbs use 3/8" fuel lines. We would increase the diameter to 1/2" and not only the lines and hoses, but the fittings, etc. The diameter of everything needs to be increased, because if there is a single restriction somewhere between the pump and fuel bowl(s) then the resulting volume would not be increased.
I would very carefully ream out the carb's fuel fittings and re-tap them to accept 1/2" fittings along with the outlet fitting on the fuel pump. It can be a PITA but it works.
Most people don't realize this, but carburetors do NOT rely on pressure in order to function. The only pressure that is required in order for a carb to function properly is an unrestricted source of ambient air pressure. And that's the total extent of how pressure plays a part in a carb's function, my friend.
Since a carburetor is a *demand* type of component, instead of pressure, it relies on the vacuum from the engine's intake in order to function properly. It's from this vacuum source that fuel is drawn through the carburetor's passages and mixes with the onrushing air in order to send a fuel/air charge into the engine's cylinders.
Contrary to popular belief, electronic fuel injection systems are NOT cheaper, nor are they more reliable, nor are they easier to troubleshoot and/or repair. In fact, the ONLY advantage that an EFI system has over a carbureted one is the fact that the fuel/air charge can be more precisely regulated. This in turn means lower exhaust emissions and a slight increase in fuel economy.
Also, EFI can maintain this very precise fuel/air metering for extended periods of use and over a wide range of external pressures with virtually no adjustments, unlike carburetors, which are affected by barometric pressure and altitude.
Another consideration that most offroaders fail to realize is that when they run a vehicle at a severe angle, they are in fact destroying the engine. If the engine utilizes a wet sumped oiling system, when it is subjected to any severe operating angle, it's been taxed severely. If the oil pump pickup becomes exposed to air, cavitation occurs and contrary to popular belief, it takes some time for the pump to recover, usually around 15 to 30 seconds but sometimes as long as 1 minute.
By itself, this situation is not so bad, however all of the oil which SHOULD be covering the oil pump pickup screen is not where it's supposed to be. This means the oil has to be SOMEWHERE! And that means the oil is now flooding the crankshaft.
Since the crankshaft has a mass and is rotating, this means that it is inducing a gravitational effect on everything surrounding it, including the engine's oil. The oil tends to cling to the crankshaft and during this time it starts to foam as it becomes mixed with air.
After a few seconds of this treatment, the oil begins to look like tan colored cotton candy surrounding the periphery of the spinning crankshaft. This increases the mass imposed upon the crankshaft, because now it is not only is the engine producing power to spin the weight of the crankshaft, it also has to produce power to spin the weight of the engine's oil supply as well.
Combining the lack of lubricating oil in an engine with the increased demands placed upon said engine by the oil rotating about the engine's crank, this will usually spell BREAKAGE!
And that's pretty much what happens, my friend. Therefore, before you attempt to modify your carb to the point where it can operate upside-down it might behoove you to consider the other ramifications beforehand.
Your friend;
LAMAR
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