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GM steerin pump

The "p" is pretty good in stock form compared to the "tc" and " n" style pumps. The west texes offroad mod is helpful. Beyond that you start bringing in durability issues. A over the top modified pump is a tempermental and demandind in terms of oil flow, oil reservoir capacity and heat...
 
I've found that most problems that people have is flow related or capacity related

Either restrictive coolers, hydroboost, or fittings that cause problems when the systems is put under high demand.
 
TBItoy said:
I've found that most problems that people have is flow related or capacity related

Either restrictive coolers, hydroboost, or fittings that cause problems when the systems is put under high demand.

I stepped up to -8 lines on pressure, return and control lines. Best thing I ever did to get pumps to live longer and it steers better to boot.
 
crawlin85cj said:
I stepped up to -8 lines on pressure, return and control lines. Best thing I ever did to get pumps to live longer and it steers better to boot.

I'd like to step mine up for trail running at speed, but my trail gear ram has -6 fittings made into the ram body. Might get them changed out to -8 if I ever tear tear the buggy down.
 
-6 should be plenty for most of our pressure lines. -8 for return lines for sure. -10 or 12 for supply line that goes from res. to pump, and make sure that line is suction rated / actual supply hose. (They make special hose called suction / feed / supply hose that is rated for vacuum.) I am currently running -6 pressure, -8 return, and -12 supply.

The West Texas mod is good and about the only thing you can do for a stock pump. Even it can cause supply issues though. From the myriad of stock and aftermarket pumps I've pulled apart basically all the aftermarket companies are just doing the west texas mod and then addressing the intake by porting in various ways. They are putting the bigger 185 internals in the 135 housings though. Chances are if you bought your p-pump at a parts store is has 135 guts even if the OEM pump had 185 guts. And if you bought your p-pump from an aftermarket company I can almost guarantee you it has 185 guts. You can tell by looking at the back plate of the pump if its not in its can. If it is concave it has 135 internals. If it is convex it has 185 internals.
 
this makes a lot of sense... i've been running stock ls van pumps for a while now, even when i ran the 4.0.. some of the folks i've recommended this to have not had the great experience i've had with junkyard pumps vs. parts store pumps, sounds like buying oem units from the jy is the way to go..
 
When I put my 4.3 in my samurai, i left the stock pump on it, it only has 37'' tires and would not turn very well, so i got a pump off a mid 90's chevy 3500 4x4 with a 454 and drilled the valve out a little bigger for more flow a idle, now i can turn the tires with one finger sitting still, alot better! guess what im tryin to say is start with a pump that was meant to turn the heaviest thing, it seems to work alot better
 
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