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Help upgrading my old Toyota

I'm running duals and 5.29's on 38 Tsl's... I have yet to break the gears! Been running them for over 3 years now too....

I vote 5.29's man. In the long run you will be happier than the 4.88.

how many trails have those gears seen in those three years? Just sayin.


I dont like the strength of 5.29s but he will be fine with 33s.

I do think the STOCK toyota 4.88s are stronger than 5.29s.

I have 4 sets of removed broken 5.29s from customers rigs under the bench right now. It doesnt seem to matter what brand either. They all suck.
 
For a pure trail rig, 5:29's are the way to go but on a freeway with 5:29's and 33's.:haha: A dual case is not that expensive especially considering how much better it makes off roading. When I build a yota it's lockers and dual cases befor ring and pinions. My .02.

Ok, I'll bite. What's involved in a dual case?
Got a general idea of how much it might cost?
Is it something that I could do myself with basic mechanical knowledge?
Where can I source the parts?

Forgive my ignorance.
 
Ok, I'll bite. What's involved in a dual case?
Got a general idea of how much it might cost?
Is it something that I could do myself with basic mechanical knowledge?
Where can I source the parts?

Forgive my ignorance.

1---get a second t-case
2--- buy a dual adapter (I think they are going for around $200 from different vendors)
3--- Will need to modify your shifter holes
4--- Will need to get another cross member or build a new one (again a number of vendors make them)
5--- Will need to get your rear driveshaft shortened and the front lengthened.
 
That was fast! lol thanks

As I pushed the post button, it occured to me to do a quick internet search, came up with these.

http://www.datinfab.com/toyotadualtransfercaseadapterkit.aspx
http://www.datinfab.com/toyotadualtransfercasecrossmembers.aspx
(will gladly use site vendors, these are just examples)

So these and another case, a couple of holes in the floor, and it's pretty much bolt on?
Drivelines NW will be familiar with this conversion I suppose.

Quotes on locker install anybody? As well as the knuckle rebuild?
Feel free to pm if prices are a touchy subject.
 
That was fast! lol thanks

As I pushed the post button, it occured to me to do a quick internet search, came up with these.

http://www.datinfab.com/toyotadualtransfercaseadapterkit.aspx
http://www.datinfab.com/toyotadualtransfercasecrossmembers.aspx
(will gladly use site vendors, these are just examples)

So these and another case, a couple of holes in the floor, and it's pretty much bolt on?
Drivelines NW will be familiar with this conversion I suppose.

Quotes on locker install anybody? As well as the knuckle rebuild?
Feel free to pm if prices are a touchy subject.

STAY AWAY (others will agree) from NW drivelines---RUN!!!!!!!!
 
Sometimes you can find deals on complete ready-to-run dual cases with cross member on here...seen them for as low as $550 (but ya gotta be ready to pull the trigger as they go quick at this price...), but generally in the $650-750 range...
Just gotta be patient. :;
And X2 on DL-NW; RUN!!!! :haha:
 
Anybody see a problem with those and 33s and still being able to use my truck as a truck around town? It can barely get out of its own way as it is, 70 on the highway with a wind behind it and going down a hill.

Dual cases will do NOTHING for this at all. Ya cant drive around in low range on the hiway.

I run dual cases and 4.10s and it kicks ass in the woods and is stronger than a 5.29 set of gears but it absolutely worthless on the road. Its a clutch burner in hi range.

Dual cases is great for a trailered rig but will do nothing for your street driving pleasure.
 
Tru dat...It all depends on what you ultimatley end up wanting out of the Yota; If its primary duties are street, with some trail use...go with gears in the axles, but if 70% or better is intended for off road use, run duals...
 
Other option is save your money and do the duals and gears. Or gears and gears.

Street driven you need your diff gears to be about right for your tire size. Do you plan on only running 33s? or are you going to step up to 35s or bigger tires at some point? what are your future plans?
 
All toyotas end up with 38s. Its only a matter of time. :;

I will not disagree with this.

38's on the street you pretty much have no choice besides 5.29s at least this is my thought. I have blown up a rear 5.29s diff that was spooled and that was with bald 36s.
 
Dual cases will do NOTHING for this at all. Ya cant drive around in low range on the hiway.

Dual cases is great for a trailered rig but will do nothing for your street driving pleasure.

Right, but you don't want to run 5.29's and 33's around. What 80's toyota does well on the highway? You can stick with a taller geared truck and use the duals to get good trail gearing. Eventually he'll regear the axles but first I would do a rear locker and duals. Some toyotas run 39's.:kiss:
 
I do plan on staying with 33s. It sees Evans Creek, Walker Valley, trails at my family's property. . . Nothing too crazy that I haven't been able to make it thru open. Front is leaking all sorts of grease, has been for some time. I thought rather than just take it apart to repair it that I would add some gears too.
It will be mostly for use as my truck with occasional off road use.
 
What gears are in it now? I think 5.29's would be too low for what you want. Fix the front and keep wheeling. Save your money until you're sure of what you want. There are calculators that you put in your gearing and tire size and see what RPM you'll be at certain speeds. Maybe that will help in deciding what gearing.
 
how many trails have those gears seen in those three years? Just sayin.

Well lets see.. I have two Elbe runs, Numerous Tahuya runs, 2 Naches runs and probably 5 snow runs. So upwards of 15-20 runs on them. I'm not nice to my stuff and gears are the least of my worries.. :rolleyes:

But I'm still a newb wheeler, what do I know! :fawkdancesmiley:

I was just giving my two cents! I love my 5.29's!
 
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As the first post stated it looks like a street driven truck that he wants to wheel. He wants street friendly mods.

My opinion,

1. ARB or detroit
2. 4.56 gears, they work great on my 35's. Keeps the cruise rpm's on the highway under 3K rpm's.
3. Rebuild the front axle and inspect those birfs for wear.
4. Do you plan on lifting more that the 3 inch that is on there?

This truck doesn't need much. ('85 solid axle, EFI) Lockers make for less abuse on the trail. I wouldn't over think this one too much.
 
Gears haven't ever really been an issue other than on the highway. I put in a new clutch when I bought it, and have only had the occasion to smell it once.

I'd like to think I can see a line pretty good, and have managed to do most of the difficult (not necessarily rock crawling) trails around here open. But if I'm taking it apart, it's going back together with a locker in the rear. One for the front would be nice, but probalby/definitely out of my budget.

The front has been clunking and leaking the entire time I've had the truck, mostly when I turn sharp, only when 4X is engaged. Had the Ujoints replaced in the driveline, not the problem.

I've pretty much wanted these three things all the time, but kept waiting for the front to grenade before I did. Hasn't happened yet, but I have the $ and the motivation right now.

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So what I've listened to on this thread has really been helpful. I am very appreciative for all of the opinions and input.
-I will most likely go with 4.88s as I plan to stay with the 33s.
-The Aussie locker seems a good economical option for how I drive and where.
-Just need to figure out a good rebuild kit for the front, which will probably become a more clear option once the front is taken apart so we can see wtf is going on in there.

Ken, I don't plan on lifting it any more than the 3 inches it sits on right now. Next time I have extra $ I might, but for now I'm happy having the smallest truck at the park for the most part when I show up to wheel.
Knife to a gunfight and all that.

We'll throw the high steer on so you guys won't totally laugh at me when I show up to wheel. :D
 
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Go with any rbld kit other than TG's kit; their bearings/races are too soft and fail prematurely (can't believe this hasn't been mentioned yet!); Marlin, Allpro, there are even local parts houses that can get good rebuild kits at a reasonable price that still has quality bearings...:awesomework:
 
I



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So what I've listened to on this thread has really been helpful. I am very appreciative for all of the opinions and input.
-I will most likely go with 4.88s as I plan to stay with the 33s.
-The Aussie locker seems a good economical option for how I drive and where.

:D

You'll be happy with this.
 
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