Maybe I can weigh in with some sort of help.
I built a sick 383 a few years ago. Still have it on the stand, we'll get into that in a second.
For the money you'll have in building a motor, parts, and machine work. If I did it again I would go the GM crate route 383
$4180 340hp, and Peak torque is 435 ft.lbs at 4000 rpm,
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/HT383-Performance-Crate-Engine-12499101-P7C53.aspx
However, I do not plan on building a motor again. Too much money for what you get. Next time around I'm going to buy a 25,000 mile 5.3 or 6.0 out of a wrecked late model for $1200-1600 and go with that. If I feel crazy maybe throw several G's at it. Versus where I'm at now, and still carburated!
Alright, the motor I built is very similiar to what you mentioned. 383 stroker motor I built initially dyno'd 468hp & 490ft/lbs. We've since done a few changes and am slightly over 500 in both. But I have definately given up a great deal of streetability.
I started with a 2bolt main block and splayed the bearing caps. If you have a 4bolt block then you're ahead of where I started (well depending on HP your after). I was going to exceed what I felt comfortable on a 2 bolt block (325hp 2bolt, and 475hp is what i'd consider the threshhold on a 4bolt non-splayed, just my opinion) and wanted the splayed mains, thats why I started with a 2 bolt block.
Anywho, Dart Iron Eagle heads, and 10:1 Eagle rotating assembly.
To save retyping, I typed this out on Pirate a few years ago, heres what I had over there.
I'm running the Dart Iron Eagle's but in 200 fashion, but they are way flowed out and port matched to a hogged out Victor JR. and a Edlebrock 750.
Machine shop and parts were a lil over $5000, plus a block, the bare heads, and the intake and carb.
Breakdown est.:
Eagle Balanced Rotating assembly $1700
Misc parts $1500 (gaskets,timing set, cam, lifters,springs, retainers,keepers, ARP studs, new exhaust valves, pushrods, roller rocker arms, oil pump, splayed caps, mainstuds)
$1900 labor & machine work (dressed & cleaned ports, splayed mains, clearance block, surface bore, cam bearings, race prep, assload of head & intake work.) Since I didn't want to bang it up, I paid to have everything assembled. Yes I know I suck, but better suck than blown up.
I didn't have the heads flow tested, I thought about having it done, but didn't. I just had them hog them out the most they could, and clean out all the crap that restricted them, then had them port matched. As for the cam, 12-678-4 which is .520/.540 244/252 @ .050 solid flat tappet. Yeah I didnt go roller cause of the cost. If I built the same motor today, I would go full roller with a drysump setup. Only reason, I have more money to afford that setup today. I wanted it when I built the motor, but couldn't afford it.
Heads are where you make the power. I've seen some stock Vortecs that were port matched, and hogged out that produced big time for the $$$$ (read: cheap in comparison), better than alot of stuff out there. With heads though you can spend as little or as much as you want, $$$'s the limit. Unless you have DARTs laying around to use. Just laying out an alternative.
Sorry I have no idea on injection, except a stock GM TBI, and Paul "P" or Kelly "Blacksheep10" will have to chime in on that.
Why is my motor listed above living out its life on an engine stand? It was to go in my '58 Chevy, and before that happened, I had a cherry deal fall in my lap in the form of a RamJet350.
