Here buy it and be done:awesomework:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/1559971111.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/1559971111.html
-
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
I need opinions please...
- Thread starter Qman
- Start date
Qman
The Camshaft Guy
Not cost effective for me. If it was already 4.56 it would fit perfectly into my plans. Thanks though.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
are you looking for advice or justification of a lunchbox purchase?
It sounds as if you already had/have you mind set on it.:beer:
honestly that elocker posted is a smokin deal and better than a detroit up front in my opinion.
It sounds as if you already had/have you mind set on it.:beer:
honestly that elocker posted is a smokin deal and better than a detroit up front in my opinion.
Qman
The Camshaft Guy
I guess to be honest both. My mind is far from set. That is why I am asking.
I know it is a good deal. I saw it on craigslist last night. Problem is solely finances. Nothing more. Trying to get the most "bang" for the buck. I have to get gears, install kit and some sort of locker. I am trying to manage the funds enough to do an exo as well.
Here's the story so maybe all of this will make some sense.
Blew the RF bearings coming out of Evans in late September. Thrucks been sitting since. I am finally getting some funds together to fix/upgrade it. At the same time my Daugther has announced her engagement and impending wedding in Hawaii. Hence the tight funds.
I had the rear axle assembly, Isuzu rear disc w/ ARB and 4.56 gears. I have a flat bed I will be putting on at the same time. I replaced the front axle but need to match the rear ratio's. I wanted to get some sort of locker up front. Trust me, you're not the only one busting my balls about getting a Detroit or equivelant.
That's my story. I just want to go wheeling. I just don't want to bust it up the first time out.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
the guy with the elocker has listed it before. He doesnt sound confident in the gearing, I think hes guessing.
It most likely doesnt need a bearing/rebuild kit. I would call him and ask the color on the pinion stub/nut. Then if its a 4.56 its a killer deal.
If its not then a set of gears for 150 and he can be talked down to 350 (he used to have it listed for 600 a few weeks ago). Thats 500 if you set it up yourself. If you get lucky and its a 4.56 then your only in it 350.
Having an ARB in the rear would be nicely complimented by a selectable front too (more important to me).
Still cheaper than a detroit. I would look for used V6 4.56 gears first (they are common and CHEAP when new 5.29s are put in their place), also used stock toyota 4.56s are better than the aftermarket gears too. If ya find a set of used 4.56s for 50 bucks or less, that would seal the deal on the elocker for me. It could be had for 350+50=400 and be ideal.
Just depends on how much juggling you want to do to save coin and get better parts.:beer:
It most likely doesnt need a bearing/rebuild kit. I would call him and ask the color on the pinion stub/nut. Then if its a 4.56 its a killer deal.
If its not then a set of gears for 150 and he can be talked down to 350 (he used to have it listed for 600 a few weeks ago). Thats 500 if you set it up yourself. If you get lucky and its a 4.56 then your only in it 350.
Having an ARB in the rear would be nicely complimented by a selectable front too (more important to me).
Still cheaper than a detroit. I would look for used V6 4.56 gears first (they are common and CHEAP when new 5.29s are put in their place), also used stock toyota 4.56s are better than the aftermarket gears too. If ya find a set of used 4.56s for 50 bucks or less, that would seal the deal on the elocker for me. It could be had for 350+50=400 and be ideal.
Just depends on how much juggling you want to do to save coin and get better parts.:beer:
Bang for the buck=welded. When welded properly they will not break. I personally run spools, and if you want to spend the money I suggest spools but again bang for the buck=weld. Why do you think you need a locker? People always say for highway use, but I disagree. Before bobbys 30's, lockers were used to try to prevent inner axle failure. With the advance in toy axle strength there is no need for a locker. 8" ring and pinions eventually fail regaurdless if locked or welded. My group of wheelers religiously pull their diffs every 3months or so to check the backlash and ware pattern. Still many of their diffs just blow up on the trail at the drop of a hat. A welded rear lets a rig get awsome traction on the road in wet or dry conditions. Sure it will wear down the tires a little quicker when cornering but not in the front. If your hubs are unlocked it don't matter what kind of lockamadoooohicky is in there.
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Ever hear someone sneeze "bullsheit"???!!!:fawkdancesmiley: They pull em down every 3mo's cuz they break!!!
Proof right there!!!
Qman
The Camshaft Guy
Spools up front? I'd like to steer.
Qman
The Camshaft Guy
I appreciate all of your info. I will check around.
I've run lockrites front and rear for about 7 years. 35's to start with now running 37's. Never had any problems. Ran original longfields till I broke one, now have 30 spline chromo's. I will stand behind lockrites. They have never failed me.
and I would recommend 5.29's
.02
and I would recommend 5.29's
.02
Ever hear someone sneeze "bullsheit"???!!!:fawkdancesmiley: They pull em down every 3mo's cuz they break!!!
Proof right there!!!
Actually your wrong they really do tare down that often.
Mallcrawler83
Well-Known Member
I run an 85 extra cab, detroit lunch box-lock right style front with a welded rear, 5.29's, 33x12.5 boggers and 34x9.5 tsl's. Stock axle shafts, and birfs. Haven't broken anything in the front yet but I have a set of 38's that I won't put on until I get Longfields and an e-locker or arb. The lunch box works alright but it looks cheap and steers shitty. It drives alot like a welded front. I would weld it/leave it open and save the scratch for an elocker/arb.:beer:
Qman
The Camshaft Guy
Steering is a waste of money?
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
no ****???? wow! I had no clue! Thanks man.:eeek:
I tore down a truck last year that has run a welded diff and 30 spliners and it killed a birf after two years. Bobby replaced it but told me he wont replace another out of a welded front EVER.
T_MADD1
Well-Known Member
I don't know about the truck axles, but lockrights have held up fine for several years in my landcruiser axles under my samurai with 5.29's, longs, and sticky tires.
I'm not saying that there the best but they've work great for me.
I'm not saying that there the best but they've work great for me.
I tore down a truck last year that has run a welded diff and 30 spliners and it killed a birf after two years. Bobby replaced it but told me he wont replace another out of a welded front EVER.
Bobby will replace a diff with arb. Well I forgot to turn it off:haha:
Qman
The Camshaft Guy
I want to thank everyone for their advice. I have a lucky habit of finding things when I need them.
Hello, my name is Ken, I am a craigslist junkie...
hello, im selling a couple things from my toyota 4x4.
-Detroit locker, from 8 inch diff. only 5 trips on it new is $550, im asking $350
-Diamond plate toolbox- $50
-Stock 22r intake manifold- $10
-stock 22r carb- $5
-1 inch lift front shackles- $10
may have more things, just ask
I found it @ 10PM last night. By 11AM it was mine. $300.00, which I think is a great price. So, no lock-rite for me.
Hello, my name is Ken, I am a craigslist junkie...
hello, im selling a couple things from my toyota 4x4.
-Detroit locker, from 8 inch diff. only 5 trips on it new is $550, im asking $350
-Diamond plate toolbox- $50
-Stock 22r intake manifold- $10
-stock 22r carb- $5
-1 inch lift front shackles- $10
may have more things, just ask
I found it @ 10PM last night. By 11AM it was mine. $300.00, which I think is a great price. So, no lock-rite for me.
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
:redneck:Aren't we all?!!??!!:haha: Nice score! :awesomework:
