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jd 32 bender iinfo

rstdwright

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
Messages
85
recently got a jd model 32 built one cage but just kinda eyeballed the measurements and placement because still have not figured out how to run accurate like how much do I add or subtract to get my bend its a 5.5 clr die and im using 1.70 .120 wall I really wanna start being able to the bends I wanna do and make it come out the way I want it to
 
I have a model 32 with the same die (5.5clr 1.75")

You need to bend a "reference 90" on a clean piece of tube, you will be able to tell exactly where the bend starts when you take it out of the die. Mark the tube and put it back in the bender, you need to mark the die where your bend actually starts at.

That way, you will always know where your bends will start, so making tubes with multiple bends will be easier.

When bending .120 wall dom, I overbend ~2 degrees to account for spring-back of the tube.


I tend to work from the center of a tube if I'm building a multi-bend tube, like I'll do 2 bends on one side, then replicate them on the other side of the tube, same distances from center.


There is really no reason to have a tube with more than 2 bends though, they are usually too difficult to handle. I try to stick to 1 bend per tube if there is any way possible. If you look at most of the top buggy builders they rarely have tubes with more than 1, maybe 2 bends

sluggin and splicing tube is just as strong (or stonger) than a single piece of tube, so there is no reason to kill yourself with complicated tubing.
 
Mark the pipe then put that mark at the starting edge of the die, bend a 90, with this you can figure your draw.45's will be pretty close to half this, 180's pretty close to double.I do put multiple bends in a piece but I bend on a verticle bender mostly, they're a lot more accurate for that type of bending.But your main hoops and frame rails, you need to start in the center and work your way out, being careful of which side your going to draw from. 2 degrees of over bend for pipe , 3 degrees of overbend on 1/8" Dom, and 5 degrees of overbend on 3/16" dom is what my bender takes . Just always put your mark on the starting edge of the die and it should always work out for you,
 
With my dies I cannot see the mark I made on the die when the tube is loaded so I measure from the u-strap.
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Rokcrler said:
With my dies I cannot see the mark I made on the die when the tube is loaded so I measure from the u-strap.
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^yeah, that's what I do, I left out that part, whoops ;D cause you can't see the mark on the die when it is in the bender.
 
also, another trick is to make a mark on the center line of the tube right by the strap, then make a mark on the strap. The reason for that is so you can make sure your tube stays in the same plane if you were to take it out of the bender and have to put it back in to add some more bend. Hope you can understand that. :drinkers:
 
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