jeep lift w/ spoa & other misc... Q's

[Rock_Crusher]

can a jeep wrangler be lifted by doing a spoa... w/o the sye & cv shaft, *and drove on the street or wheeled?

anyone?

-----------------------------
can i drop the belly pan, re-adjust the driveline angle?
w/o getting terrible vibes or breaking u-joints - until i can get a sye kit.

running 33's w/ a somewhat light foot... using a 4.0 5-speed... would the rear hold up welded? until i swap in the 8.8 ford

whats the better idea to control axle wrap from a spoa set-up?

--------- thanks ahead of time, i'am reading ton's of info from vendor's / other jeep site's... but, figured i ask here - maybe someone w/ a jeep has a idea / advice to share... it's fairly easy to do a Spoa... but doing it right... or knowing how to do it the 1st time - just makes more sense to me. and saves me the headache, especially if you've already been there.

 

[MarcW]

can a jeep wrangler be lifted by doing a spoa... w/o the sye & cv shaft, *and drove on the street or wheeled?

anyone?

-----------------------------
can i drop the belly pan, re-adjust the driveline angle?
w/o getting terrible vibes or breaking u-joints - until i can get a sye kit.

running 33's w/ a somewhat light foot... using a 4.0 5-speed... would the rear hold up welded? until i swap in the 8.8 ford

whats the better idea to control axle wrap from a spoa set-up?

--------- thanks ahead of time, i'am reading ton's of info from vendor's / other jeep site's... but, figured i ask here - maybe someone w/ a jeep has a idea / advice to share... it's fairly easy to do a Spoa... but doing it right... or knowing how to do it the 1st time - just makes more sense to me. and saves me the headache, especially if you've already been there.

ageing NOT MATT:

 

[KarlVP]

Sure you can.

I have seen many a Jeeper drive a lifted Rig with a belly pan drop until they could afford a SYE. Or you could just drive it with the belly pan as is and see if you get vibes.

I'm not a big fan of SOA's but some get them to work without a track bar. I would most definately reccommend an antiwrap setup (easy and cheap to do).

Or just go coilovers. Or at least coils like me.

They had leaf springs on covered wagons. :looser:

 

[NotMatt]

1st question... that's a negative, IMO. The YJ rear driveline is very short. Even with a 1" skid lowering, the angles will still be pretty steep... not sure how far you could lower the skidplate without running into trouble up front, but not alot. Also, when you do the SOA, you will be welding new perches on the rear axle, so you'll want to have the CV driveshaft and SYE already setup so you can put the pinion angle in the right place.

2nd question... I doubt it. I suppose if you were very careful, but I've seen a welded D35 break the carrier on the street making a tight turn on pavement. This was with 32's. I'm all for welding or spooling the rear, especially on a 5-speed rig, but the D35 is just too weak to take it. Get the 8.8 and weld that sucker up solid.

3rd question... Anti-wrap bar. Pics of mine should be coming in the next couple weeks. Good amount of vertical seperation at the axle end, shackle and heim at the skid plate end.

My advice rich? Start saving your pennies and do it all at once. I know it sucks waiting and not having a "capable" rig, but I still think you can get out and have fun with it. For the SOA, you'll need a CV rear driveline, for the cv driveline to work with the 8.8, you'll need the special flange end on it. For the SOA, you'll need to put new perches on the back, which you should do to the 8.8 and not bother with the D35. And on and on, I'm sure there are some things I'm forgetting.

What I did was start up a seperate account for my "Jeep" fund. Any time I made some extra money in any way... odd jobs, selling spare parts, finding 10 bucks on the floor at the grocery store, I put it into that account. When I didn't touch it, it grew.

 

[Rock_Crusher]

What I did was start up a seperate account for my "Jeep" fund. Any time I made some extra money in any way... odd jobs, selling spare parts, finding 10 bucks on the floor at the grocery store, I put it into that account. When I didn't touch it, it grew.

i hate jeeps............

how about,

body lift
lift shackles
add a leaf's
to clear 33's

i have sawzall too, if that helps?

won't be much flex, but - this wouldn't be too costly... and i could save for the ford 8.8 and sye kit.

 

[NotMatt]

i hate jeeps............

how about,

body lift
lift shackles
add a leaf's
to clear 33's

i have sawzall too, if that helps?

won't be much flex, but - this wouldn't be too costly... and i could save for the ford 8.8 and sye kit.

1" body lift, some lift shackles and some fender trimming should get you where you want to go. Guess you could do the add-a-leaf too if you were worried about it. Pair that stuff up with removing the sway bar(s) (mine just had one in the front) and both of the track bars, and you'll be doing good. Find a used lockright and some spare shafts for the D35, and get ready to wheel.

 

[Rock_Crusher]

1" body lift, some lift shackles and some fender trimming should get you where you want to go. Guess you could do the add-a-leaf too if you were worried about it. Pair that stuff up with removing the sway bar(s) (mine just had one in the front) and both of the track bars, and you'll be doing good. Find a used lockright and some spare shafts for the D35, and get ready to wheel.

this is what i'am thinking, as to .... be able to wheel, yeah... i'll be doing the 3 legged dog alot... but i'am used to it... at least i'd be able to get out.
and deal w/ it - baby it - for awhile, while saving or keeping a eye out for the parts i need to lift it better or build it stronger...

rear end just utterly scares me...

 

[TreeClimber]

this is what i'am thinking, as to .... be able to wheel, yeah... i'll be doing the 3 legged dog alot... but i'am used to it... at least i'd be able to get out.
and deal w/ it - baby it - for awhile, while saving or keeping a eye out for the parts i need to lift it better or build it stronger...

rear end just utterly scares me...

RC,
Don't let the rear end 'utterly scare' you. D35 shafts are readily available, and cheap too. Worst case senario. You snap a shaft. Carry a spare shaft, a gallon of 90 weight, and a zip lock baggie. You pull the cover, drain the old fluid into the zip lock baggie. Swap out the shafts. Refill the carrier. And away you go.
You can buy my old shafts if you want 'em. They heading to the swap meet next March.
Tony.

 

[KarlVP]

RC,
Don't let the rear end 'utterly scare' you. D35 shafts are readily available, and cheap too. Worst case senario. You snap a shaft. Carry a spare shaft, a gallon of 90 weight, and a zip lock baggie. You pull the cover, drain the old fluid into the zip lock baggie. Swap out the shafts. Refill the carrier. And away you go.
You can buy my old shafts if you want 'em. They heading to the swap meet next March.
Tony.

I have two sets of D35 shafts. Schnappy the shaftie? I'll let both go for the screaming deal of $20 a set.

U Pick up.

 

[Rock_Crusher]

spare parts are always welcomed, *especially right now...

as i'am really low of fundage$. i set up the Yj w/ 33's this morning. god forbid i hit a bump... i think if i run some lifted shackles w/ a 3in body lift... you never heard me say that remove the sway / trac bars...

i should be alright... given the weak rear end.

i SHOULD BE ABLE to get out and wheel it... what cha think? until the cash comes rolling in for a sye / cv and spoa w/ a anti-w bar...

this set up should work...

opinions?

3in body / lifted shackles - to run 33's... and mildly wheel - weenie trails?

 

[TreeClimber]

spare parts are always welcomed, *especially right now...

as i'am really low of fundage$. i set up the Yj w/ 33's this morning. god forbid i hit a bump... i think if i run some lifted shackles w/ a 3in body lift... you never heard me say that remove the sway / trac bars...

i should be alright... given the weak rear end.

i SHOULD BE ABLE to get out and wheel it... what cha think? until the cash comes rolling in for a sye / cv and spoa w/ a anti-w bar...

this set up should work...

opinions?

3in body / lifted shackles - to run 33's... and mildly wheel - weenie trails?

I'd hold off on the three inch body lift. If'n it was me, and I was in your shoes...... I'd one inch body lift, and one inch shackle lift (that's a shackle two inches longer than stock), and a little fender trimming. For the low-budget shackles, buy some 2 inch flatbar, 1/4 wall, and just drill the holes yourself. Measure your factory holes length, add two inches, make 8 identical pieces, and swap out the old ones. Very cheap, slight lift. For the low buck body lift, you'll need new body bolts (only 1 inch longer) and some pucks (1 inch thick). You can buy a kit, or make your own. Also a affordable upgrade. Then pull the factory flairs off, sharpie a new line about an inch higher, cut, and reinstall the factory flairs higher up.

Good luck

and I've also got a spare set of shafts, so don't worry about breakage, just spend the 20 and get a spare set of shafts.

Tony

 

[Rock_Crusher]

I'd hold off on the three inch body lift. If'n it was me, and I was in your shoes...... I'd one inch body lift, and one inch shackle lift (that's a shackle two inches longer than stock), and a little fender trimming. For the low-budget shackles, buy some 2 inch flatbar, 1/4 wall, and just drill the holes yourself. Measure your factory holes length, add two inches, make 8 identical pieces, and swap out the old ones. Very cheap, slight lift. For the low buck body lift, you'll need new body bolts (only 1 inch longer) and some pucks (1 inch thick). You can buy a kit, or make your own. Also a affordable upgrade. Then pull the factory flairs off, sharpie a new line about an inch higher, cut, and reinstall the factory flairs higher up.

Good luck

and I've also got a spare set of shafts, so don't worry about breakage, just spend the 20 and get a spare set of shafts.

Tony

anyone got a walkthru or site? - how to replace axle's on a d35

 

[TreeClimber]

anyone got a walkthru or site? - how to replace axle's on a d35

The axle is held in by a C-clip inside the carrier. Pull the cover, rotate the carrier until the cross shaft is towards you. Pull the retaining bolt. Pull the shaft and gears out. Slide the broken shaft inwards and pull the C-clip. Push the broken piece out the axle tube. Slide in the new (whole) axle and reverse process. Very easy fix with basic hand tools. Trailside repair. You'll need to carry a spare shaft, or have it nearby, a couple quarts of 90 wt., a container for the old 90 wt (i use a gallon zip lock baggie), and some basic hand tools.
Tony

 

[KarlVP]

there are some pretty good writeups on www.stu-offroad.com

 

[Travis1]

You pull the cover, drain the old fluid into the zip lock baggie.

Or, drain it in to a plastic shopping bag or two. Tie the bag up, when done, toss the bag behind the diff cover and bolt up.

Soon as the ring gear spins it'll rip and release the oil.

 

[Totalled]

pick-a-part in Oly sells exploder 8.8s for $146 with tax... :wink:

 

[JPTHING]

Honestly, I have a YJ, and I was running stock D30, and D35 axles, with 34" LTB'S, Lockright in the front. My only problem was when I tried to climb a vertical wall, or drive over a stock 2wd Ford ranger, the POS yokes were breaking, and causing the POS lower ball joints to separate. We also went pretty much everywhere around Reiter, even most of the way up to Lake Isabel and the only thing I broke were U-bolts(which is the only reason we didn't make it all the way up).
The option I went with was a stock Chevy D60 rear($100) it has 30.5" C of spring pin to C of spring pin, and a Ford HP D44($100) welded the perches, swapped out the knuckle for a Crane flat top $180.00, and bought arms $250.00(ripped off by Olympic) $80.00 each at Parts Mike Parts, and built the steering: 4- 3/4" rod ends $60.00, 8' of 1-1/2" tubing $100. Sure it's full width, but I can't imagine breaking much with the 2.5L

Honestly it is not much money, considering.

my 2 pennies

 

[Gaylord]

Sure you can.

I have seen many a Jeeper drive a lifted Rig with a belly pan drop until they could afford a SYE. Or you could just drive it with the belly pan as is and see if you get vibes.

I'm not a big fan of SOA's but some get them to work without a track bar. I would most definately reccommend an antiwrap setup (easy and cheap to do).

Or just go coilovers. Or at least coils like me.

They had leaf springs on covered wagons. :looser:

Coiling a leaf sprung rig is a waste of time and money IMHO. With the proper set up on a leaf sprung rig (long and soft) coupled with a traction bar set up it will do everything a coil will. I personaly run a TJ now, but my old leafers worked just as well with some fine tuning. and my newest rig a 3B will have long soft leafs(Dakota springs).
Name the toughest trail in Washington that we jeep people will attempt. Likley that leaf sprung rigs have already done it and done it well. Hell they more than likley built the trail. (I am thinking of Rim Rock Personaly)
For rock crawling and competition, I would agree coilovers or air shocks are the cats meow.
If you could take spring wrap out of the equasion , I would ask you this. How is a coil better?
Lets debate!! ?

 

[CrustyJeep]

If you could take spring wrap out of the equasion , I would ask you this. How is a coil better?

Approach/departure angle.

Leaf springs can bend easily when abused; they work OK as springs, but not as well for axle location.

Leaf spring hangers and shackles are rock magnets; you can tuck your link mounts up into the frame more easily than spring hangers.

Leaf springs interfere with steering, so they must be mounted close together in the front, which diminishes side hill stability.

:flipoff:

But I do agree with you, leaf springs can work pretty damn well when you set them up right.

 

[CrustyJeep]

My advice rich? Start saving your pennies and do it all at once. I know it sucks waiting and not having a "capable" rig, but I still think you can get out and have fun with it.

Fawk yeah you can!!! We used to have a great time wheeling on crappy 33's, two open diffs, a 20:1 crawl ratio, and SUA. Not that I'd willingly go back to that, but if I had to, I'd do it again. Get stuck, use the winch, that's fun too

Weld the rear end and go wheel it. Stay within the capability of the rig, IE try not to obliterate that D35 too often, and JUST GO HAVE FUN!!!