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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
lets talk about auto transmissions for wheeling
- Thread starter Hip
- Start date
PORTER
Well-Known Member
Why not do what I and many do and just put trans in 2nd or 3rd gear when your going down hills when you feel your pushing thru the brakes? The heat your going to create as well as the lag in stall till you hit the momentum point in my opinion is not worth it. It's a pretty simple solution.
ok so i talked wit huges performance and a few other tech guys. hers what i learned:
advertised stall is a range based on a big block power curve.
the stalll will be less on a small block by about 700 rpm
the stall will be even less on a stock v6
you are supposed to guess the required stall for your vehicle using all the info provided and should be 500 rpm above where your power starts.
so i ordered a 2800 which should stall about 2000 in my application.
i talked to dedicated crawlers "Competetors" and most of them use a higher stall like around 3500.....but they are dedicated crawlers no driving up mountain roads......they mostly have smaller motors and or turbo so they want the RPMS up.
ive decided i want both so a compromise to me is about 2000 actual stall.
its going back together
today so ill update in a few days.
advertised stall is a range based on a big block power curve.
the stalll will be less on a small block by about 700 rpm
the stall will be even less on a stock v6
you are supposed to guess the required stall for your vehicle using all the info provided and should be 500 rpm above where your power starts.
so i ordered a 2800 which should stall about 2000 in my application.
i talked to dedicated crawlers "Competetors" and most of them use a higher stall like around 3500.....but they are dedicated crawlers no driving up mountain roads......they mostly have smaller motors and or turbo so they want the RPMS up.
ive decided i want both so a compromise to me is about 2000 actual stall.
its going back together
today so ill update in a few days.PORTER
Well-Known Member
2k stall is a good compromise. Just enough to not push thru the brakes, but not enough to create alot of heat. With full manual shifting you should be ok. I have messed this topic both in drag cars as well as rock/ trail rigs. A comp rig is a different situation that hardcore trail wheeling. It's really pretty simple to figuire out, but it's best to learn by somebody else's failures. Well atleast money wise. Been there done that.:redneck:
So the 2800 rpm stall is installed. drove it around on the street and in my yard. i love it. best 200 dollar mod ive made. it does not drive thru the brakes and the actual stall is about 2000 to 2100.:cheer:
it seems my transfer cases shift into and out of gears much easier without the slight load that was on them before.
im going wheeling this weekend so ill really get to test it. im curious how hot it will get driving up the mountain. i have a temp gauge so ill watch it closely.
ill let you all know how that goes.
it seems my transfer cases shift into and out of gears much easier without the slight load that was on them before.
im going wheeling this weekend so ill really get to test it. im curious how hot it will get driving up the mountain. i have a temp gauge so ill watch it closely.
ill let you all know how that goes.
Harvester of Sorrow
Well-Known Member
well i could not be happier. drove it up the road 2500 feet in elevation, trans temp got to 180 and stayed. wheeled all day. no issues at all. mind you it was only 50 degrees outside so lots of cool crisp air flowing across the huge RV cooler.
we will have to wait till summer for the real test when its 90 to 100 degrees out. it did not slip too much and i love not having to strain on the brake pedal all day.
we will have to wait till summer for the real test when its 90 to 100 degrees out. it did not slip too much and i love not having to strain on the brake pedal all day.
fubar73cj5
Well-Known Member
Chevyjoe
Well-Known Member
what stall would you guys recommend for me?
specs: 425HP LS, 700r4 w/ RMVB, np241 (2.72:1), 5.86 gears, heavy 42s.
strictly snow wheeler/pavement pounder (car shows) .... I want the best converter I can get for the snow
specs: 425HP LS, 700r4 w/ RMVB, np241 (2.72:1), 5.86 gears, heavy 42s.
strictly snow wheeler/pavement pounder (car shows) .... I want the best converter I can get for the snow
srgould41
Well-Known Member
Now you all got me thinking. I have a 305/4L60 with 1200 stall/4.56 gears. I need good pedal pressure not to drive through the brakes at idle. I often put it in neutral when stopped just to take the load off my foot. I am moving up to a 350 over the summer. Perfect time to replace the converter with a higher stall, but with more HP would I see the same issue with the brake pedal force?
are you talking a 305 tbi to a 350 tbi because its not as big of a power jump as most think it is i have a 350 in mine and compared to my buddys 305 its not that big of a difference and i have a 1570 stall tci converter id be willing to part with by the summer
srgould41
Well-Known Member
True, not a big jump in power. 50hp and a similar torque increase at most. A friend is trying to talk me into Vortec heads, but that means custom programming. My TC is "stock" what ever that means. I believe stall is somewhere between 1200 to 1600. Not positive though. If I went up it would be somewhere over 1800.
I love being able to take my foot off the brake and crawl without pressing the accelerator pedal, but at idle with the brake pedal pressed takes a bit of effort.
I love being able to take my foot off the brake and crawl without pressing the accelerator pedal, but at idle with the brake pedal pressed takes a bit of effort.
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