Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
The Rubicon axle is a glorified D30. 30 spline inners, same tiny D30 outers using 297 series joints (big ones). The 260 series were the smaller D44/D30 joints used in older rigs.
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Life span of D44 with 37's ??
- Thread starter TigTorch
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The Rubicon axle is a glorified D30. 30 spline inners, same tiny D30 outers using 297 series joints (big ones). The 260 series were the smaller D44/D30 joints used in older rigs.
Early Rubi's had a major issue with the axle shaft ears. Later models didn't have the same issue.
Bodaciouscj7
Well-Known Member
Corey, I thought the Ford was Barb's truck.
Knock on wood I have been beating on my locked dana 44 with 35x15/16.5 tsl's and a small block an only broke 2 short side shafts in 4 or 5 years. Both due to spit caps. Anybody that wheeled with me knows I beat the living piss out of my Jeep and break everything else but the front 44 and rear 60 keep on ticking. Now that I have said that I probably need to get ready to buy the front 60 I have been wanting
I agree, I run a 44 in the front of my TJ with an ARB and Randy's Chromo axles, 60's are only needed when you have a lot of torque like a V8, I doubt my little 4.0 will ever break them.
TigTorch
Well-Known Member
I'm hearing that not all 44's are created equal. Sounds like Rubicon axles are an odd lot too. Hum....time for a little internet research....
Wildman1
Well-Known Member
This comes up all the time. What is a TRUE D44??
A Rubicon 44 is a D44 center with TJ D30 outers. So is it really a 44? Depends on how you look at it. You can get a thin tube D44 from Chevy, Ford, Dodge & Jeep. And you can also get some better D44's from each of them too.
And since we are talking about it, How much interest would there be in a writeup on how to Narrow HP44 to Waggy width to fit under a TJ/XJ/ZJ/WJ?
front axles
Slightly off topic: Barbara bought the Ford in 2000, But I bought it from her in 2004. Little known fact: in 1976 Crewcab Fords came with a Dana 60 front with 30 spline inner and outer shafts.
Instead of comparing a Jeep Dana 30 to Rubi. Dana 44, lets compare it to a 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton Dana 44 front. What are the strength differences? Axle tube wall thickness- all axle tubes will bend, and break at the centercections, stub shaft spline count/diameter-both shafts break too easily(Rubicons have forged axle joints with tripple sealed caps, older axles don't), different size wheel bearings- both hold up well, but the Rubi's are sealed against water intrusion, less lugnuts on a TJ -pickups have higher GVW, Rubicon axles have an air actuated selectable locker. When compared side by side with any other stock front Dana 44's, I think the Rubicon front axle is the best ever built. But if I was going with tires larger than 37", I would swap in built Dana 60's.
Slightly off topic: Barbara bought the Ford in 2000, But I bought it from her in 2004. Little known fact: in 1976 Crewcab Fords came with a Dana 60 front with 30 spline inner and outer shafts.
Instead of comparing a Jeep Dana 30 to Rubi. Dana 44, lets compare it to a 1976 Chevy 3/4 ton Dana 44 front. What are the strength differences? Axle tube wall thickness- all axle tubes will bend, and break at the centercections, stub shaft spline count/diameter-both shafts break too easily(Rubicons have forged axle joints with tripple sealed caps, older axles don't), different size wheel bearings- both hold up well, but the Rubi's are sealed against water intrusion, less lugnuts on a TJ -pickups have higher GVW, Rubicon axles have an air actuated selectable locker. When compared side by side with any other stock front Dana 44's, I think the Rubicon front axle is the best ever built. But if I was going with tires larger than 37", I would swap in built Dana 60's.
Binder
Well-Known Member
If it has a 44 center it's a 44. Some are less desireable than others but still a 44. A rubicon 44 is only valuable to a guy looking to replace the 44 in his rubicon with another. For offroad purposes they're not much use as a transplant into another rig.
PORTER
Well-Known Member
I am with Rick on this topic. If you drive even close to agressive the "BOOM" will echo off all the trees near you. I have seen 44s break with 33s on them on more than a few occasions. Bottom line is if you drive like a sissy they will last, but not forever. I tried to polish a 44, and it died time and time again.:;
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
Im glad I built a 60 
Im glad I built a 60
Its gonna be funny when your break your 60 before i break my 44:flipoff: :flipoff: :flipoff:
:haha: :haha: :haha: :haha: :haha: :haha:
XtrmTJ
Well-Known Member
Is a HPD44 stronger or weeker then a LPD44 ?
Binder
Well-Known Member
Not enough info. There are many factors when you're talking strength. Are you asking about just the R&P? Front HP is stronger going forewards but weaker going backwards.
XtrmTJ
Well-Known Member
That's what I am asking, I did not know a HPD44 was stronger going forward and weeker going backward. Any other inharent strengths or weeknesses ? I know not all D44's are equal, but some are stronger then others. I used a 1978 1/2 ton Ford full width HPD44 with 31 splined Yukon inners and outters, Yukon 5.38 gears and a Detroit. Is this set up stronger or weeker then most ? Sorry, don't mean to jack the thread.:redneck:
Binder
Well-Known Member
I should clarify. By weaker going backwards I mean the HP 44 is weaker going backwards. A HP going backwards is the same as a LP going forewards.
I don't know anything specific about that axle.
I don't know anything specific about that axle.
XtrmTJ
Well-Known Member
Aah, gotcha, thanks, so a HP is stronger then a LP, cool. :awesomework:
As I have been doing a lot of research on this recently I have found a couple of key things. There is a big differance in the way the pinion gears are made. Some brands cut the teeth all the back to the end like a standard rotation giving more meat to the gear (stronger) and some make the pinion shorter by cutting the back of the gear dowm right past the wear area of the gear and in doing so weaken the pinion. I will be using a precission set in mine if I cant find a spicer set.
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
speaking about fronts only...general consensus is that a HP diff in the front is stronger because the gears drive on the "drive side" of the gear, rather than the coast side like a LP front diff would. Now in the rear a LP diff is considered stronger because its driving on the "drive side" of the gear again.
That being said I have LP diffs front and rear.
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
True but once you get down into some low gears 513s and down you have much less pinion teeth and even though you may have a "longer" tooth you may have only one pinion tooth in contact with the ring gear at any given time.
