Loc-Tite from hell

patooyee · Jun 15, 2016

I recently purchased a transfer case with a clocking ring on it. I don't need the clocking ring and am trying to get it off. 6 taper-head allan bolts hold it in place and some sort of Loc-Tite from hell was used on the threads. I have literally broken or shattered every allen wrench or socket I own and have not budged a single one. Loc-Tite's instructions for releasing permanent loc-tite is to heat the bolt with a torch, which I have done almost to the point of melting it. Still no movement. I've gone and bought some more sockets to try an impact driver with tomorrow but am looking for any back-up plans possible in case that doesn't work.

If the impact driver doesn't work my next plan is to TIG a nut to the head of the bolts and use my biggest impact gun. But I am afraid the bolt may break before it loosens.

I've encountered plenty of difficult loc-tite scenarios in the past. Big impact guns have always been my solution. I've never shattered sockets like this though.

Rokcrler · Jun 15, 2016

Dammit JJ.... i would have taken the ring off if i knew you didnt need it.

The impact driver with short allen will get them loose.

patooyee · Jun 15, 2016

Haha, I didn't know it had it. It's not a big deal, I'm sure I'll get it. Just a funny nuisance is all it is. Just wanted a backup plan in case the driver doesn't work. Just want to go in armed with as many weapons as possible.

smbroady82 · Jun 15, 2016

Mo has that G14 classified loc-tite !!!

patooyee · Jun 15, 2016

smbroady82 said:
Mo has that G14 classified loc-tite !!!

I don't think it was Mo that did it. I think it was the previous owner.

Anyway, I hope Mo or the previous owner don't think this thread is to bash them or anything. This isn't a huge problem or anything, I don't feel ripped off or anything. I'm ecstatic to have the case. Just looking for help on how to handle it.

And Mo, I haven't been working on this since we last spoke. I was about to leave on vacation when we last spoke and today is my first day back. It's not like I've been sitting at the shop for a week stuck on this one problem.

TBItoy · Jun 15, 2016

Even blue loctite will stick hard on flat head bolts. Too much surface area.

70Scout · Jun 15, 2016

I hope they didn't use JB Weld.

karatejosh · Jun 15, 2016

Re:

I have the green stuff Sleve retainer that **** is heat resistant and insane strong I use it on my Toyota steering arms

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Rokcrler · Jun 15, 2016

No worries JJ, i know life gets in the way.
It was assembled by the PO, i know you'll get it freed up. Im anxious to see the build progress :drinkers:

kmcminn · Jun 15, 2016

https://m.mscdirect.com/mobileweb/product_detail?id=90064676&hasRestrictedParts=false

That stuff is the who is who of all metal locking products. I used that stuff to holds thousands of steel bushing in aluminium housings. Down side is after it sets you have to machine the piece out.

mac5005 · Jun 15, 2016

I've had to mug weld lots of 3/8 nuts to bolts like these in the past with good success. Both in clocking rings and diff covers.

I could never get it clean enough to tig, but would mig, starting in center with a spiral outward.

Make sure to keep arc in front of the puddle filling in behind you, otherwise won't get quality fusion with bolt head.

Also puts a lot of direct heat into bolt itself.

Then I use big impact gun and 6 point socket.

Sometimes on seized ones it takes a couple tries.

Could also drill out center to stress relieve prior to welding. Remnant of Allen area would somewhat center the drill.

patooyee · Jun 15, 2016

mac5005 said:
Could also drill out center to stress relieve prior to welding. Remnant of Allen area would somewhat center the drill.

Good idea.

RustyC · Jun 15, 2016

I have dealt with this myself. It's the taper of the countersunk bolts that seems to be the biggest issue. I was able to get about half of them out with an impact driver. The other three I have to weld a nut onto them. Smacking the outside edge of the bolt in a counterclockwise motion may help prior to welding.

SHELBS44 · Jun 15, 2016

Might have bearing mount instead of locktite. Have ran into this before. Impact socket. Hear around bolt and bolt without getting bolt head red but enough heat to loosen and it should turn loose. We use it at work. Alot

mdo817 · Jun 16, 2016

RustyC said:
I have dealt with this myself. It's the taper of the countersunk bolts that seems to be the biggest issue. I was able to get about half of them out with an impact driver. The other three I have to weld a nut onto them. Smacking the outside edge of the bolt in a counterclockwise motion may help prior to welding.

I agree with it being the counter sink, we run into this on Jet engines fairly regular, usually if you drill the head off, remove ring most off the bolts will back out with pliers pretty easily.

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Toddy · Jun 16, 2016

mac5005 said:
Could also drill out center to stress relieve prior to welding. Remnant of Allen area would somewhat center the drill.

Better watch out doing this. The bottom of the Allen hole in the head is about the smallest part of the shank. Head will break off. But like said rest of bolt will prob come out after that.

patooyee · Jun 16, 2016

Mo's advice was spot-on, the impact driver got them all out, albeit I had to really hammer away at a few of them with a 5-lbs sledge. I think I've had that driver sitting in the bottom of my toolbox untouched for about 15 years now. It was one of those tools that I wondered if I even still had. But I guess it does serve a purpose every decade or so!

Anyone wanna buy a Dana 300 clocking ring?

Rokcrler · Jun 16, 2016

Re:

Yay!

Elliott · Jun 16, 2016

What are you building now?

patooyee · Jun 16, 2016

A little Ecotec buggy. I wouldn't qualify it as "building" though. Moreso just tinkering to keep my brain busy. Estimated completion is never. I've been tinkering with it for a few months now and my progress is exactly zero.

My problems aren't over yet though. The input seal retainer is held on with the same type of bolts only smaller, also loc-tited with whatever the stuff was. I tried the impact driver and shattered all my bits for that size now. The allan size is just too small to withstand the required torque. I'm guessing if I ever need to get that off I'm going to have to weld nuts to them. They are so small it will be very difficult / maybe impossible.