mopar buggy project

[moparmagician]

Thanks everyone for the compliments. Now I am at the drawing board, making (designing) a truss and steering cylinder mount for the D60. Suggestions are greatly appreciated.







There it's edited for smart ars comments!

 

[no excuses]

Thanks everyone for the compliments. Now I am at the drawing board, making a truss and steering cylinder mount for the D60. Suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I would make it out of metal myself


LOL

 

[moparmagician]

Well brought home a tire to check clearances for the front 4 link. I think it looks pretty cool. What does everyone think about Baja Claws? Opinions? This one is a 16/38.5-16.

 

[no excuses]

Hey Marty, I think that u need a wheel inside the tire or I just do not see how u are going to keep the air in the tire:fawkdancesmiley:

 

[sucmah]

When i was building a cyl mount for my old 60, i didnt do any welding to the cast section. Lots of guys do it and it seems to work but it made me nervous, i had a 3/8 thick great lakes diff cover with counter sunk bolts and i tied into that for support on one end of my cylinder mount, i dont think you want a truss for strength, you just want to mount and protect your cylinder. That alone will give the housing and tubes more strength, plus most any over the top truss design will hamper you uptravel, and it looks like you need all you can get. One thing about mounting to the diff cover, dont finish welding until your gears are set!!! I had some people ask me what i would do if i had to open the cover, since there is NOTHING i can fix inside a diff cover on the trail i didnt see any point in being able to open my diff without a plasma.

 

[angelfly]

Well brought home a tire to check clearances for the front 4 link. I think it looks pretty cool. What does everyone think about Baja Claws? Opinions? This one is a 16/38.5-16.

I personally like the baha claws! I would get a set of the sticky versions next time, if its only a wheeler those are the way to go! They grip very well in almost any situation with that compound

 

[moparmagician]

When i was building a cyl mount for my old 60, i didnt do any welding to the cast section. Lots of guys do it and it seems to work but it made me nervous, i had a 3/8 thick great lakes diff cover with counter sunk bolts and i tied into that for support on one end of my cylinder mount, i dont think you want a truss for strength, you just want to mount and protect your cylinder. That alone will give the housing and tubes more strength, plus most any over the top truss design will hamper you uptravel, and it looks like you need all you can get. One thing about mounting to the diff cover, dont finish welding until your gears are set!!! I had some people ask me what i would do if i had to open the cover, since there is NOTHING i can fix inside a diff cover on the trail i didnt see any point in being able to open my diff without a plasma.

Thanks for the input, and I agree, I'm not welding to the cast section. I am going to use a cover with the tab up top and bolt the truss to it. The truss will be mainly for providing a mounting point for the upper 4 link bars and the steering cylinder. I think I am going to make one simular to the one blue torch makes. I am also going to make it where the cover will come off without a torch, my luck isn't good enough to seal it up. But you are right, out on the trail, if something goes in there, it's done for the most part. Now I need to get out to the shop and figure out how to get a sheet of 1/4" plate out of my truck. I'm going to make all my brackets, trusses, skid plate, etc.

 

[moparmagician]

Well I got the front axle trussed and the bracket made for the steering cylinder. I will add some gussets and braces to the bracket as soon as I get the cylinder attached. One thing, don't drop a trussed Dana 60 on your foot, it hurts. I was rolling it over while on jack stands, and opps. Wish I would have had steel toed boots on. I am going to weld tabs on the ends of the cylinder mount and bolt end caps on it for added strength, and also some gussets on the upturned edge on the front later when I have the cylinder mounted.

 

[moparmagician]

Got the front end up under it again, and
I need to redo my drivers side motor mount, it's in the way of my four link bad. The passenger side is perfect. So I need to make a mount for the drivers side to match. Learning from mistakes, next time will be easier. Good thing for plasma cutters, grinders, and saws all. More work ahead............

 

[darius]

I don't see bending being a problem.....

Though you may wanna check your housing for straight again.....

 

[moparmagician]

housing checked, actually did it with a jig. I got a buddy that owns a 4x4 shop, and I used his jig. Thanks though, a lot of people don't know how to do it properly. Anyways, really never though about bending the link bar, I assume that is what you meant. Fortunately redoing the motor mount really won't be that bad, probably an evening. Thanks for the idea though.

 

[S10slayer]

Removed everything, figured I better get things painted before I get too carried away. I can always sand paint off to weld things on later. I sanded the loose surface rust off, what was on the original bars from being outside, then used rust mort on them. Then I used hammerite black, what a pain. Yes I brushed it, and it's thick, not sure I would use it again. I have blisters on my fingers from the paint brush. I would have thinned it, but the can says not to. From here on out though, it will be rattle can on the scratches.

once u go black... lol

 

[moparmagician]

Been busy with work and haven't had much time lately for the crawler. But tonight I got the rear axle completely disassembled. I've decided to go ahead and disc brake it, it's cheap enough. I guess the swapmeet this weekend up north was pretty good, I missed it, had a hot date instead. One of the few times I think taking a woman out saved me some money, cause I know I would have spent way too much at the swap meet.

 

[datsunon40s]

Been busy with work and haven't had much time lately for the crawler. But tonight I got the rear axle completely disassembled. I've decided to go ahead and disc brake it, it's cheap enough. I guess the swapmeet this weekend up north was pretty good, I missed it, had a hot date instead. One of the few times I think taking a woman out saved me some money, cause I know I would have spent way too much at the swap meet.

sweet looking build!!!!

 

[moparmagician]

Well finally got some time to redo a couple of things. First, my drivers side motor mount was in the way of the upper 4 link bar, so cut it off and made another one. Now it clears with room to spare. Also used the stock crossmember for the rear of the transmission, modified of course. But in the stock location, something I never really though about. With dual cases, the front output is farther back and the driveline is going to hit the crossmember. So moved the crossmember back, made some channel iron cross pieces and redid the mounts. This time added support to the Northwest Fab adapter which they recommend. I used soft urethane bushings for all, so hopefully it won't stress things to much and break a case or something. Now that those problems are fixed, I can continue on with 4 linking the front end, then the rear.

In these pics, it shows various bushings, I have since replaced it all with polyurethane. Being very careful to have equal load on each of them, not to cause any twist or uneven support.

 

[no excuses]

bout time you got some work done :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[moparmagician]

Getting the disc brakes installed, looks pretty good. And check out the shifter knob, now is that cool or what? That lever is for extra low range, to unleash all the Mopar power so it can climb like a Ram. Now just get some money so I can continue on. Forgot an old buddy still owes me quite a bit for a boat he bought from me years ago, time for collection..........

 

[moparmagician]

Got one of my diff. cover guards made last night, one more to go.

 

[moparmagician]

Got the rear axle trussed, I think it turned out rather well. Winch is installed, still have to do the fairlead part though. Installed a 180 amp alternator also, figured why not. I also have half my joints now, I am using johnny joints, 1.25 stud on the lower arms, and 1" on the uppers. I will be using 2.25 x .375 wall tubing for the lowers, and 1.75 x .250 wall for the uppers.

 

[oldbeercans]

saa-wheat. this thing is cool.