Pathy Front end Redo

boardbysled · Dec 23, 2010

First off, I'd like to tell you guys that I am a poor and cheap bastard, thus this thread will contain some cheaper parts and some cheaper ways of doing things rather than just buying parts. But, I am gonna try to do everything so that it will last, and that I won't have to tear into it again, no ghetto fab!

There are quite a few reasons for me doing this rebuild. The main one is installing my front locker. I am also installing toyota rear main springs to move my axle forward, and stop it from hitting the oil pan. It is also going to equal out the pitman arm/high steer arm center to center difference. Also, I'll get a slightly longer wheelbase, and slightly better approach angle. And I am going to redo some of the ghetto fab that was on here from the first part of the build, and hopefully get some better articulation. Also, it will allow me to stay low and fit 35's with the same amount of lift that I have now hopefully.

And here is one of the main reasons behind me starting the project:

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My frame and my shackle are getting all lovie-dovie

Here is a few more random pic's I took today.

An overall shot:

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My shock setup that limited my droop.

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Cracked shock mount

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Front axle out:

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Beat up/blown shocks, bent and flat springs, and my beefy drag-link.

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I'll be getting more done during the next few days, my goal is to have it done by New Years Eve so I can give her a good testing.:redneck:

Money Mark · Dec 23, 2010

Does this mean you'll now be able to keep up with us in our trails?

:clappy:

boardbysled · Dec 23, 2010

Money Mark said:
Does this mean you'll now be able to keep up with us in our trails?

:clappy:

Probably not, but that doesn't mean that I won't try!:redneck::haha:

boardbysled · Jan 12, 2011

Alright, well I got it driving for the current time, it still needs front shocks, bumpstops, limit strap, and the front driveline extended. Sitting 1.5" taller in the front, lockright locker in the front, with the axle moved about 4" forward and at 106.5" wheelbase. Should be able to fit a set of 36's that I may be getting... Gonna put ZJ front springs in the rear (as my current springs are sagg'd out/spitting spacers out). Shackle angle is much better, was able to de-ghettofy it a bit there.

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Wheelbase

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Rear fender-to-tire height

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Front fender-to-tire height

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Money Mark · Jan 12, 2011

Why would you need shocks for?:redneck:

zukkev · Jan 12, 2011

Yer DEFINITELY gonna be hackin' away at the front fenders! :cheer:
Looks good Jacob...:awesomework:

boardbysled · Jan 12, 2011

Money Mark said:
Why would you need shocks for?:redneck:

I still road drive it. Plus its like a damn slinky without shocks!

zukkev said:
Yer DEFINITELY gonna be hackin' away at the front fenders! :cheer:
Looks good Jacob...:awesomework:

The front of the front fenders is gonna go even with the top of the bumper, then gonna build a lower profile non-sheetmetal front bumper. The rear fenders...hack until it fits:redneck:

Thanks again Kevin!:awesomework:

Damnyankee · Jan 12, 2011

you can cut the pathy front fenders so they look good.

at 106" wb you only moved the front forward 2".

stock pathy WB is 104.5.

boardbysled · Jan 12, 2011

Damnyankee said:
at 106" wb you only moved the front forward 2".

stock pathy WB is 104.5.

See, thats what I thought.

What I think happened is with my old springs, it actually moved my axle back from stock, and this moved it a bit ahead from stock. Like a dumbass, I forgot to take wheelbase measurements before.

I'm gonna chop the fenders when I get new tires hopefully.

Damnyankee · Jan 12, 2011

boardbysled said:
See, thats what I thought.

What I think happened is with my old springs, it actually moved my axle back from stock, and this moved it a bit ahead from stock. Like a dumbass, I forgot to take wheelbase measurements before.

I'm gonna chop the fenders when I get new tires hopefully.

have a look at pics of my rig when you go to cut the fenders. note, the corner markers are still intact.

my buddy did mine when i wasn't paying attention and actually did a very good job (front side), i had to do more cutting in the back when i went to 38's
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1305153637601&set=a.1374819699209.2048696.1493314138

boardbysled · Jan 12, 2011

Your pictures must be hidden from non-friends, as it doesn't let me see it!:booo:

Damnyankee · Jan 12, 2011

boardbysled said:
Your pictures must be hidden from non-friends, as it doesn't let me see it!:booo:

here ya go

chainsaw · Jan 12, 2011

SXs! Want!

Whered ya get the mud brown paint??

boardbysled · Jan 13, 2011

Damnyankee said:
here ya go

Thats how I'm gonna do it.

Damnyankee · Jan 13, 2011

chainsaw said:
SXs! Want!

Whered ya get the mud brown paint??

elbe.

boardbysled · Apr 4, 2011

Finished pictures. Works good.

Needs lower low range gearing though, thinking of swapping in an auto with a RADesigns rock shifter and rail shifter. Also looking at building an exo this summer...

nowires · Apr 4, 2011

way to go, whats next?

zukkev · Apr 4, 2011

Looooks good Jacob! :awesomework:

Phantom 309 · Apr 4, 2011

nowires said:
way to go, whats next?

BBS, please don't say exo:redneck:

boardbysled · Apr 4, 2011

PHANTOM 309 said:
BBS, please don't say exo:redneck:

Exo.

Actually, a DD/tow rig is going to take first priority.

But, my reasons for doing an exo are logical, one is because I would not fit with an interior cage, the second is I want to keep it street legal, and an exo will allow me to do that.