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Westbound and down. Touching down in Albuquerque, final destination Moab, UT

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51faf66bd2f05a58e5155b63e98601f7.jpg


This is what it looked like before I started welding. 8" of the far side shelves were cut out (where the little blocks are welded on) creating a T shape.

This pic is from the front, the "finish weld" pic is from the rear the deeper side.

1300 ton forge press. The area is called the "wedge pocket" normally they install a wedge to make it parallel with the shelves. Slide the wedge up/down to adjust the height.

As the press runs the wedge gets beat into position. Then as you try to slide it, it is now sitting on ridges if it slides at all. The wedge is held in with 3" bolts that keep it from sliding out the back. Lots of times those bolts will work loose or strip out.

This way it will always have 100% contact and can have set shims for different dies.

Trying to bolt a block in place won't work as the force will break the bolts or pull the threads as each layer "settles" in. Same with just welding a block in place. That is why welding solid is the preferred method. Being a cast steel frame, it has to be pre heated to 400* ish and held during the welding. Then stress relived at 1050* and allowed to slow cool.

Once that is all done I get to come back and machine everything back to where it belongs. The frame will move a bit from the weld/stress relief.

https://youtu.be/uVIhmVmN4LI
Here is a vid of one of these presses complete and running. Not this place but same make model for a scale reference.
 
Re:

So you convert a wedge press to a flat shim setup by filling the wedge pocket with weld?

If I'm understanding correctly

Cool
 
Re:

TBItoy said:
So you convert a wedge press to a flat shim setup by filling the wedge pocket with weld?

If I'm understanding correctly

Cool

Correct. Did one a couple months ago that mad this one feel like a baby. That one was 14,500 lbs of wire. Had a helper on that one, 2 12 hr shifts 59days.

Really want to start building may buggy, but am about sick of welding lol.
 
Red97 said:
51faf66bd2f05a58e5155b63e98601f7.jpg


This is what it looked like before I started welding. 8" of the far side shelves were cut out (where the little blocks are welded on) creating a T shape.

This pic is from the front, the "finish weld" pic is from the rear the deeper side.

1300 ton forge press. The area is called the "wedge pocket" normally they install a wedge to make it parallel with the shelves. Slide the wedge up/down to adjust the height.

As the press runs the wedge gets beat into position. Then as you try to slide it, it is now sitting on ridges if it slides at all. The wedge is held in with 3" bolts that keep it from sliding out the back. Lots of times those bolts will work loose or strip out.

This way it will always have 100% contact and can have set shims for different dies.

Trying to bolt a block in place won't work as the force will break the bolts or pull the threads as each layer "settles" in. Same with just welding a block in place. That is why welding solid is the preferred method. Being a cast steel frame, it has to be pre heated to 400* ish and held during the welding. Then stress relived at 1050* and allowed to slow cool.

Once that is all done I get to come back and machine everything back to where it belongs. The frame will move a bit from the weld/stress relief.

https://youtu.be/uVIhmVmN4LI
Here is a vid of one of these presses complete and running. Not this place but same make model for a scale reference.
I had no idea it took that big of machine to make doughnuts.......????. What size (#,?) rolls of wire do you use? It'd be a full time job just changing 50# spools at that rate?


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stano said:
I had no idea it took that big of machine to make doughnuts.......????. What size (#,?) rolls of wire do you use? It'd be a full time job just changing 50# spools at that rate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Better to have more machine than less lol.

Running 50lb spools .120/3mm flux core wire. 200-250 lbs in 12 hr shift if working a big flat area. Scaling/removing the flux kills some time. Normally use a 36" gun extension to stay outta the heat/spatter some

Changeing the spools is almost a welcome chore, as ya can get up and move around.
 
Red97 said:
51faf66bd2f05a58e5155b63e98601f7.jpg


This is what it looked like before I started welding. 8" of the far side shelves were cut out (where the little blocks are welded on) creating a T shape.

This pic is from the front, the "finish weld" pic is from the rear the deeper side.

1300 ton forge press. The area is called the "wedge pocket" normally they install a wedge to make it parallel with the shelves. Slide the wedge up/down to adjust the height.

As the press runs the wedge gets beat into position. Then as you try to slide it, it is now sitting on ridges if it slides at all. The wedge is held in with 3" bolts that keep it from sliding out the back. Lots of times those bolts will work loose or strip out.

This way it will always have 100% contact and can have set shims for different dies.

Trying to bolt a block in place won't work as the force will break the bolts or pull the threads as each layer "settles" in. Same with just welding a block in place. That is why welding solid is the preferred method. Being a cast steel frame, it has to be pre heated to 400* ish and held during the welding. Then stress relived at 1050* and allowed to slow cool.

Once that is all done I get to come back and machine everything back to where it belongs. The frame will move a bit from the weld/stress relief.

https://youtu.be/uVIhmVmN4LI
Here is a vid of one of these presses complete and running. Not this place but same make model for a scale reference.


Is that a Minster press? I've worked on a few of those at our plant in Cleveland Ohio. We have Fuji Cars at our plant here in Tennessee.
 
biggin said:
Is that a Minster press? I've worked on a few of those at our plant in Cleveland Ohio. We have Fuji Cars at our plant here in Tennessee.

Ajax.

I've cut the bed on a fuji before lol
 
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