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proper wheel studs w/ spacers

MIG'DHORSE

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so i'm throwing on some 1.5" spacers on my toy front... the stock studs seem a bit short, as the wheel spacer is thicker than a stock wheel...

what are you guys running as replacement wheel studs when putting on spacers? i can't see that running these without full thread engagement could be safe:eeek:
 
use locktite youll be good.:redneck:

my spacers bolted right on. there was just a few threads showing thru. i torqued them. checked them the next time i went out,and they have been fine 3 years.
 
spacers aren't the safest thing to begin with... i hope i can get ful thread engagement.. i've had trouble finding longer studs. i'm considering just getting the sky ifs widening kit and using the ifs hubs.. not sure yet though.
 
have u checked arp studs they might have them

not that i've seen... i also don't feel like paying ARP prices for some wheel studs.

I've heard that all pro used to make longer studs, but their shitty site doesn't show this product anymore... just he option for "ET lug nuts" which apparently have a more obtuse taper, allowing the lug nut to fit deeper into the spacer, allowing more thread contact. i might give these a try, at only $9 for the set of 12.

any more ideas, guys? I've hunted through napa's stuff, toyota dealerships gave me the wrong ones to begin with... bastards:flipoff: shmucks is well... schmucks.
 
I've found them at Schucks before. Well, maybe not the exact ones you're looking for, but longer-than-stock ones for my 45-year-old Cruiser axles. Of course, the guy working had no clue, but he let me look through his little bins of wheel studs and compare them to the one in my hand.

They're obviously not ARP, but they probably came form the same factory as the ones you'd get at VatoZone or Napa.

Good luck finding 12 of what you're looking for though...
 
Don't bother swapping studs there is no reason to... Either get the correct ET style lugnuts for spacers or do a IFS hub swap. The Sky widening kit uses ifs rotors that have about 1/4" LESS pad engagement than any other combo due to the rotor being smaller. And lets face it, we need all the breaking force we can get... :D

I used the IFS hub swap on my truck with fj-40 rotors and V6 calipers and it stopped really well for having 42's on it. :D
lugnuts OR karmirtoy's ifs hub swap
 
thank you, mr. white trash. i've always enjoyed your informative, helpful posts, and your ridiculous truck.:awesomework:

i'll see what these proper lugnuts can do before i abandon this and go to IFS hubs. thanks again!!
 
Not a problem, I actually should rephrase that statement, I use BOTH IFS hubs and 1 1/2" spacers with ET lugnuts with red locktite and had no issues with them coming loose. :D
 
I had 2.5" spacers all around, torque to 90ft/lb and all should be good...If space is needed have a machine shop counter sink deeper, but no more than half of the total width of the spacer...
 
i hope these ET lug nuts do the job! i'm ordering a set now.

PS~any tricks on getting the studs to sit into the hub? i've been beating the piss out of them for a while, still have about an 1/8" on each stud to sit in before its fully seated.
 
i hope these ET lug nuts do the job! i'm ordering a set now.

PS~any tricks on getting the studs to sit into the hub? i've been beating the piss out of them for a while, still have about an 1/8" on each stud to sit in before its fully seated.
they need to be pulled in with an impact. atleast thats the easy way to do it. or pressed in, with a...press.


also, you need a MINIMUM of 5 threads engaged, anything less isnt safe. 7 would be better, but 5 will work.
 
I pull the studs in but if you ask on PBB you'll get teh guys that say you are destroying the studs by pulling them in by taking them past yield so they get weak. Meh, whatever I haven't lost a stud driving down the road or wheeling EVER.... :D
 
I use my air hammer to run them in and then pull them thru to seat them.... Never had one fail in 20 years...
 
hmmm well im not as cool as you guys with all yer manly tools... i might try with a 1/2 breaker bar with a piece of tube as a cheater extension to pull it through.. hopefully it works.
 
Dude, bring 'em by my garage in north Seattle and we can use my compressor and impact gun to seat those wheel studs.

Alan

hmmm well im not as cool as you guys with all yer manly tools... i might try with a 1/2 breaker bar with a piece of tube as a cheater extension to pull it through.. hopefully it works.
 
Rule of thumb for threaded fasteners is that if your thread engagement is equal to the diameter of the fastener, you have full strength.

Toyota studs are m12x1.50 which means 8 full turns for full strength.

Wheel spacers are a hot topic for debate. Many motorsports organizations do not allow bolt-on type spacers because it is difficult to verify the torque of the hidden wheel nuts.

Slip-on type spacers and long studs have been used by many racecar builders and a few OEMs as well. Remember the Porsche turbos from the 80's? They used up to 100mm wheel studs and big fat spacers.

To do this on a Toyota, you don't have a lot of options for studs. ARP makes long studs, and NICE makes them too. ARPs are locally available, just ask for ARP/IS300 studs.
 
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